Replies

1. 
   Keith_Utter | Feb 23, 1999 05:08am | #1

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   Sherri, I have black polished concrete floors in my house. I have for many years used a co-polymer sealer and hardener such as Drylok's clear masonary sealer on all my concrete and apply it the day after the pour. They are petrolium based, but dry and dissipate quickly. I first used a stone and tile finish called "Polishine" and now am using "Decade 90" both are acrlyic polymers and have been performing well, although I think polishine is a little better product. No problems with heel strikes but continuious heavy point loads will damage the finish but it can be retouched. Even though these types of finishes are prone to fine scratches they are very durable and easy to keep clean. It sounds as though you may not have complete compatibility between sealer and finish. Another thing to consider is your application process. Good Luck!

1. 
   Sherri | Feb 24, 1999 02:52am | #2

   *Clarification to my original post: builder is using only this Gulfcoast MCU (probably "moisture curing urethane"). When slab is about 5 months old, at end of construction, the floor gets 2 coats of this, not separate sealer and polish.

1. 
   Keith_Utter | Feb 24, 1999 05:19am | #3

   *Sherri, Are you sure that this is the proper use of this urethane product. Have you checked with the manufacturer? I can't agree with your method if the first treatment of your slabs occurs 5 months after placement. Curing and treatment of concrete begins on day 1, especially if it's an end product. Maybe your taking this process to lightly, it's more involved than a couple of quick coats of some floor finish at the end of the job. When I was researching for my floor finish, I checked with several flooring guys and they cautioned against urethanes. You asked for information on co-polymer finishes for this type of application, I replied with what I used and it's been performing very well for nearly five years so far. I choose co-polymers because they are the easiest and safest to refinish. None of the finishes you mention above are going to remain scratch and blemish free. In fact you should include a floor polisher with every house. I considered epoxy but the expense and the future refinishing turned me off. Don't assume these finishes are maintenance free or that they will perform like tile because they will not, but it is a relatively inexpensive flooring system when all is considered. When I tell people I have polished concrete floors in my house the look at me like I have three heads. But it sure is nice when the sun's shining in on them. Sorry I don't have more to offer. Keith

1. 
   Sherri_Zann_Rosenthal | Feb 25, 1999 11:26pm | #4

   *Thanks for the help and experience, Keith. FYI, I don't agree with the method myself, of waiting to the end to deal with the concrete! But I'm not the builder on this neighborhood. As the developer, I've got a bit of influence, and am trying to research best methods here, to inject more information into the process. I agree that the builder is taking the whole thing too lightly, by slapping two coats of urethane down at the end. This is a passive solar neighborhood, where one of my goals was to take ideas from the custom passive solar home area and migrate them into a production builder environment. For the most part, it's worked great. Home prices are about $65/sq. ft., while these same homes built custom would be about $120/sq. ft! But on some things, like the concrete floor, the builder has resisted new methods--and has reaped headaches for that resistance.Thanks again for your help. Anybody else have favorite products for sealing and maintaining integral colored interior concrete floors?-Sherri

2. 
   Guest_ | Feb 26, 1999 12:06am | #5

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   Sheri, most of your problem is that you have a house builder tring to use commerical systems in your houses. I wonder if his peole have the tech knowhow to install or make the right choices in doing this. When you first pour your slabs and finish you need a curing compound to control the "dring time of the slab" On colored slabs control of curing allows the color to be even thur out the pour. On darker colored this is less important.
   After allowing the slab to come up to break then polish out. I like and use a finish cure/sealer. You were right in staying away from the epoxy systems they require skill and speed to use and are not forgiving at all. Compounds that we have used and like are as follows:

   L&M Construction Chemicals
   http://www.Imcc.com
   Acrylic Cure Sealer

   SealTight
   1-800-342-5976
   Expo-Gloss

   Euclid Chemical Co.
   http://www.euclidchemical.com
   Euco Diamond Hard

   Finally don't forget some of the older finishes out there. Linseed oil and wax. This does darken some.

   While reading your post I wondered about what your builder had done on control joints in the slab?
   If I can be of any more help e mail and we'll get this puppy fixed. Best of luck

3. 
   Keith_Utter | Feb 26, 1999 05:48pm | #6

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   Bill, You right! It's nice to see someone else is out there on this subject. Thanks for the info, when I did my floors in 94 I'd only seen this done once before in a home. I went in to correct conditions in a high tech house built by low tech builders. I wish I had the internet back then! Are any of these finishes maintenance free or more durable than the other. Also about control joints, I find many contractors don't know the three basic joints let alone their proper use. Careful planning can place joints under partitions and in less conspicuous places, but there're a fact of life. Joints are not just throwing in a few saw cuts for good measure.

   Sherri, I had a feeling this was the story with your "builder". Your headed in the right direction with these homes. Researching issues like this is the way you have to go. When I designed and built mine, my ultimate goal was to build a "high tech" house at a conventional price. The construction cost came in at about $42 per sq. ft. vs $60 to $100. An added bonus was reduced realestate taxes as floor coverings are taxable, bare concrete is not! Also my tax assessment came in low because the house is "built out of concrete" and when the tax man left he muddered "I heard this house was something special". Let's see assessment $124,900 vs appraisal $140,000 vs todays realestate market $164,900. Also CHEAP to heat and cool, maybe we should keep this a secret. Back to your situation, if you're the developer you're the one responsible for and in charge of quality control. If your contractors can't work with you to resolve problems and produce a quality product it's time to start looking elsewhere. I'm interested in your developement, where is it? E-mail me. Keith

4. 
   Sherri_Zann_Rosenthal | Feb 26, 1999 05:48pm | #7

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   I am a developer of a passive solar subdivision. I'm having trouble with the product being used on the interior floors, which are concrete colored with Davis pigments.These slabs were poured on top of at least 6 inches of packed stone with poly sheeting just under the slab as a moisture barrier. We are using Gulfcoast MCU 101, which is delaminating on heel strikes, etc. Another area builder recommends Buckeye's Cirene. We're trying to stay away from VOC-containing products. I'm looking for advice on acrylic co-polymer type products like Cirene (16% solids) vs. an epoxy clear sealer vs. a penetrating sealer topped with a wax or polish. Any help is appreciated in explaining the benefits of each type of sealing system.
   Thanks,
   Zann

5. 
   susa | Dec 29, 2003 11:30pm | #8

   Can you give some more information on the linseed oil and wax option for finishing the concrete floor?  We have a  4 yr. old concrete floor with 2 coats of sealer applied right after it was poured.  The floor is getting scratched from furniture use.  We want to put a finish on it.  Does it need re-sealing?  I like the idea of linseed oil and wax, but is it more work than some of the other finishes?  Thanks.

6. 
   Ruby | Dec 30, 2003 02:49am | #9

   For about $4.50 more a foot, installed, you can get very nice finished tile. End of problem and still acceptable to the passive solar idea. May be worth considering...

1. 
   brownbagg | Dec 30, 2003 02:58am | #10

   On my acid stain concrete floors , I used sherwin Williams Epoxy. Which came out good once I pass the learning curve on this product

   The best employee you can have but you wouldn't want him as a neighbor " He the shifty type"

1. 
   brownbagg | Dec 30, 2003 04:00am | #11

   I added a picture

   The best employee you can have but you wouldn't want him as a neighbor " He the shifty type"

   
7. 
   Catskinner | Dec 30, 2003 04:08am | #12

   Sherri,

   I've had real good luck with VO-COMP, it's a high solids acrylic, works great. And it can be reapplied later as needed to rejuvenate the finish.

   DRC