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concrete nail, screw and caulk

k1c | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 1, 2008 09:49am

I am fixing my basement, removing moldy insulation and sheetrock, and using foam panels and paperless sheetrock. It is block foundation with lots of moisture coming through in spots but no visible water.   One post advises foam panel then power nail the furring strips against panels into the foundation.  I used power nails from HD but they rusted badly in less than 2 years.  Should I use more famous brand of power nails or try concrete screws?  I know screws lasted longer in my house but will they last 30 years in a condition where nails rust in less than 2?  

I also want to try sort of poorman’s indoor french drain by ripping pvc gutter into an L and using some sort of caulk to create a channel.  I was once advised on this:  try copolymer caulk.  I tried this caulk on other project where there was concrete floor contact, but was not impressed with this caulk’s ability to adhere to concrete, although this spot may have been less than clean.  I know copolymer caulk stays stuck to clean vinyl siding, although it’s been less than 6 years.  What I hear and is readily available is polyurethane and that it has excellent adhesion.  My question is:  has anybody tried polyurethane concrete crack filler several years ago in their own house and would you mind taking a look to see if the smeared caulk is still staying stuck? 

Thank you all in advance.

Reply

Replies

  1. inperfectionist | Mar 01, 2008 02:30pm | #1

    I guess you could glue the foam to the walls, then glue and nail the furring strips.

    Where are you going to run your mechanicals?????

    I would glue the foam,,,, then build a wall in front using studs ( steel studs or otherwise).

    The indoor french drain,,,,,,,,, can't help ya.

    Be nice if you you could do something proper to dry out your place.

    Best of luck, Harry

  2. DaveRicheson | Mar 01, 2008 03:28pm | #2

    It is block foundation with lots of moisture coming through in spots but no visible water

    Solve that problem first if possible. You are going to continue to have milde, mold, and rot problem untill you do. Your question about a poorman's indoor french drain indicates you know this.

    Sometimes a poormans solution will work, but this is probably not one of them. If you want something that will last 30+ years you need to up the $$ investment on the front end and stop the moisture/water from getting in the living space.

    Go to http://www.jlcbook.com and look at The JLC Guide to Moisture Control. Chapter 1 and 2 may have what you need for a fix.

    BTW I found the Guide cheaper at amazon. It is an excellent book.

  3. nuvue | Mar 01, 2008 03:30pm | #3

    Whoa
    I would put something on the wall first to help dry the surface.
    We use a slurry of stuff called Xypex. It is pricey but worth it and one bucket goes a long way.
    It is a powder you mix very wet and masonry brush onto the walls.
    Another product is Thoroseal, it is used for cisterns and sealing. It works by expanding when in contact with moisture. It will not work well in sun. (no prob in basement)

    I would then glue the foam to the walls and use a combo of nails and Tapcons. They come in Stainless now, but are $225.00 a 100.
    Maybe, if you don't mind losing the space put in a wall in front like the other guy mentioned.
    Be sure to use a treated bottom plate.
    Is the outside gutters directing water away from the house? Soil sloped away from the foundation?

    1. k1c | Mar 02, 2008 03:03am | #4

      Thank you all for replies.  The moisture comes through, but there are at least couple of easy things I can do such as directing the rain water farther away from the house.  I am not as worried about the moisture in the foundation blocks as one of those "once in 50 or 100 years rain"  that potentially could flood the basement.  Even though I am looking for easy solution, my basement does not need true french drain, especially since it is a walk out basement and we live on a top of a sloping street.

      I live in north New Jersey, and a few years ago we had one of those rains that poured for 24 hours and many people had their basements flooded.  Mine leaked slowly  and I was able to keep the basement dry with a vacuum, a small pump and a make-shift dam of wood and roofing caulk.  I just want to avoid water leaking all over the basement.  I figured my idea could channel the water to one spot where I could pump it to the utility sink.  I don't want to make a sump pit.  Instead I would make small dam near the sink.

      After posting my question, I remembered something.  I had bought a roll of joint sealing tape from a roofing store.  The tape has a thick sticky compound with pvc backing.  It comes with a can of foul smelling primer.  I used it several years ago on my parents flat roof.  With the weather and sun, it had stayed stuck.  I think I will try this tape to adhere the channel to the concrete floor.

      Again thank you for your ideas.

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