I plan on installing a new exterior door. I am going to purchase and install a pre-hung door. The frame and door are part of a single kit and are ready to be installed into the doorway.
I have a question about the approach I need to take to remove the old door and frame. The previous owners had concrete poured over the threshold. Please see photo. The poured concrete has reduced the inside dimension (top to bottom) to 79” which will prevent me from easily fitting a standard pre-hung door into the opening. How do I approach this problem?
1. Remove the concrete saddle? If yes, do I just use and grinder and cut it out as best as I can without damaging the brick? Also if I remove the concrete saddle wouldn’t that leave the step to the door looking odd? Wouldn’t I have to add some type of step after removing the concrete?
2. Can I just grind the concrete saddle down to the point where I have enough clearance to fit the new pre-hung door?
Replies
A few questions.
Is the opening brick all the way around, including the head?
Do you have a unit dimension for the new door? That is, measurement from bottom of sill to top of Brickmould.
You may have to consider ordering a cut down door unit. It may cost a few hundred more but much more cost effective than grinding concrete all day.
Perhaps a larger closeup pic of the sill would offer more light on the situation.
Is the opening brick all the way around, including the head? Yes please see photo
Do you have a unit dimension for the new door? That is, measurement from bottom of sill to top of Brickmould. I don’t have a measurement, but Doors are usually 80" tall and overall dimension is more which includes jambs and threshold. This tells me I don’t enough clearance with the concrete saddle.
You may have to consider ordering a cut down door unit. It may cost a few hundred more but much more cost effective than grinding concrete all day. They make prehung cut down door kits? I should point out the main reason I’m replacing this exterior door is because the wood frame has started to swell and the door doesn’t open and close easily. Plan is to replace with door that has PVC frame.
What dimension do you get from the top of your interior floor to the bottom of the header?
Are you referring to the inside dimension? It is 79" please photo for visual
No, the dimensions I am asking about and you should concentrate on are the concrete “floor” to the wooden header just above/behind your interior trim.
And the side to side opening behind your interior trim.
And
The concrete “floor” to the bottom of the brick at the top of the exterior opening.
And the side to side opening between brick.
You’ll need to remove your interior trim to find your “rough opening” to set any prehung door unit.
A new pvc jambed door unit will likely have a brickmould dimension of about 40" x 83" in the case of a 36" door slab.
If you feel that cement covered threshold will come out and leave an opening in the masonry that's 40 by 83 a stock unit should work.
Also be aware of the clearance between the bottom of the door. If there have been additional floor layers added, you may not have room for a door mat or rug.
I was planning on purchasing this type of fiberglass exterior door 36" x 80"
https://www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/exterior-doors/front-doors/mastercraft-reg-white-smooth-fiberglass-6-panel-composite-frame-exterior-door-system/4140436/p-1500273186149-c-9356.htm?searchTermToProduct=4140436
Your saying the overall dimension with the molding is about 40 x 83?
If removing the concrete saddle gives me enough clearance to to fit the new door into the opening, i'll remove it. My main questions are how should I go about removing it (grinder, rotary hammer. etc), and what do I replace the concrete saddle that I remove with? Do I have to pour new concrete over the new door threshold to create a new saddle, do I install something else to fit that space?
When you find all your dimensions of your rough opening.
You can order your prehung door with casing “loose”. This gives you a prehung door on jamb. If that fits in your rough (framed) opening, you can install that and then trim down/rip your trim to fit the brick opening.
Hopefully it won’t make the brickmold look goofy.
I'm still not sure exactly what you have there. Could it be that there was a wooden threshold there and when it rotted someone placed cement in it's place?
I've done a number of these replacements but don't think I've seen one like this.
Here's a pic of a recent one where the concrete sill was poured after the door unit was installed. The cement was poured up in front of the aluminum sill making a ridge that had to be removed prior to the new door's installation.
If this is a replacement, it might chip away with a hammer and chisel, if it's all one solid piece, you are probably in for a long day with a grinder and diamond blade.
2sheps,
I have found myself in the situation you showed in your photo. In my scenario the top of the concrete is flush with the TOP of the threshold i.e. the bottom of the threshold is recessed into the concrete step... Is that making sense? This door does not have much of an eave above it so water penetration under the new (aluminum) sill is a concern (some existing rot of the subfloor tells me it has happened before). How did you seal the threshold in your situation? I've watched some Matt Risinger videos where he uses a stainless sill pan (custom made with a lip that goes into a kerf cut at the exterior edge of the threshold) that is what I am leaning toward. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
To me, that looks like a pre-cast concrete threshold that was installed when the bricks were laid. It has not reduced the opening, 79" was/is a standard door height.
Verify what you have by pulling the interior door trim. If the door jambs are butted to the concrete threshold, it is a pre-cast threshold, and should probably be left as is.
If the jambs are in good shape, you can order a replacement door to fit the opening. New door seals can be retrofitted to the existing jambs.
If you're happy with the door, just replace the door frame with a PVC/Composite kit for about $60. Here's an example from Home Depot...
https://www.homedepot.com/p/7181-1-1-4-in-x-4-1-2-in-x-7-ft-PVC-Composite-Door-Jamb-Moulding-White-3-Piece-Kit-0718117005/100023110?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-206088193-_-100023110-_-N&
Yes. The door is fine. Its the frame / jamb thats the problem. Like I said the door is starting stick and doesn't close properly.
I wouldn't have a problem with just replacing the frame, but wouldn't I have to rout the cavities for the hinges and strike plate? I have a router so it wouldn't be a problem. The only problem would be routing the cavities in the correct location. I feel like that will be difficult. Is there a good approach to routing the cavities?
This is a simple half day job for a carpenter. Hire someone who has done the work before.
If you are trying to DIY the hinge/strike mortise then google/Youtube is your friend. I dont think the forum can help you.
If you want to replace the door frame, consider purchasing a Milescraft HingeMate350 Jig which provides templates for cutting the hinge mortises and the strike plate mortise. The kit costs about $36 from Home Depot and includes everything you need if you decide to just replace the door frame. Watch the YouTube videos and practice on scrap wood to perfect your technique.
I don't have experience with this Milescraft jig, but I used a Ryobi jig that only does the hinge mortises on door slabs. I replaced 17 interior doors for a friend without a problem...