Replies

1. 
   plumbbill | Mar 05, 2008 04:33am | #1

    I wouldn't trust anything under 1.5" from cracking.

   Use a stiff dry mix with fiber reinforced.

   “The world is a dangerous place, not because of those who do evil, but because of those who look on and do nothing.” —Albert Einstein
   

2. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 05, 2008 05:21am | #2

   I personally would sprinkle toasted marshmallows on top for the finished surface.

   [email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   redtoolbox | Mar 05, 2008 06:09am | #3

   I don't get it.

3. 
   BryanKlakamp | Mar 05, 2008 06:23am | #4

   If you are to that point, why not use Schluter Kerdi on the sloped mortar bed, and continue it up the walls? You wouldn't need to put another layer of mortar over the Kerdi. Just thinset the tile directly to it.

   I just finished one, and can't see why I would do it any different. Except, I will be going to a training session with Wedi in two weeks to see how they use their presloped shower pan and 1/2" Wedi for the walls. I may change my mind. But, to use the Wedi system, you have to use their product the whole way.

   Bryan

   "Objects in mirror appear closer than they are."

   Klakamp Construction, Findlay, Ohio - just south of the Glass City

4. 
   FNbenthayer | Mar 05, 2008 12:30pm | #5

   The "problems" with a concrete shower are primarily:

   a) it's not waterproof so if the shower is used daily, it may never dry out and will be a breeding ground for all manner of nasties. Tile/grout isn't impervious either but will keep out the majority of water.

   b)it's not waterproof so if the shower is used daily, it may never dry out and will be a breeding ground for all manner of nasties. Tile/grout isn't impervious either but will keep out the majority of water.

   c)it's not waterproof so if the shower is used daily, it may never dry out and will be a breeding ground for all manner of nasties. Tile/grout isn't impervious either but will keep out the majority of water.

   You could "waterproof" the concrete but regular cleaning will render that treatment useless in short order as well.

   Just my $0.02

   Jim

    

    

    

    

   The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
   - Fyodor Dostoyevski

1. 
   ChicagoMike | Mar 05, 2008 03:43pm | #6

   So, how would you build a custom sized shower? 

   "It is what it is."

1. 
   MikeHennessy | Mar 05, 2008 03:51pm | #7

   "So, how would you build a custom sized shower?"

   Easy. One word -- Kerdi.

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

2. 
   dovetail97128 | Mar 05, 2008 06:49pm | #9

   I would disagree based on my experience. I did do one, it stays clean and usable . Clear epoxy concrete sealer/finish as is used on floors. "Noble" sheet good product for water proofing under slab.

   5000 psi mix. pea gravel mix, and a fiber additive that is used in restaurants to prevent bacterial growth. Slab for shower pan was from 3" to 2" thick.
   Framing under the floor was reinforced as per eng. I can't remember the fibers marketing name but it is used by some major restaurant chains in rest rooms and kitchens. Not only is the shower floor concrete, the 3 walls are a stucco finish over the same Noble product and the entire floor of the bath, adjoining laundry and shower were done all at the same time and in one pour. 7 years old and doing just fine.
   They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.

5. 
   BryanSayer | Mar 05, 2008 05:50pm | #8

   It can be done (think swimming pool) and was done back in the 20's and 30's. You will need to paint it with pool paint. And I have no idea exactly what concrete you should use. Pools use a sprayable mixture, something like gunnite.

   I would agree with the Kerdi solution, but you are already further along.

   But why not tile it?

6. 
   jayzog | Mar 05, 2008 08:57pm | #10

   I did one like that a few years ago in a pool house. I made the preslope at about 3/8 per foot, then used quickcrete 5000 over the liner about 2" thick, instead of a dry pack that you would use under tile.

   I spent the time to get it floated as smooth as I could but never used any sealer or finish on it. I don't think it gets any more saturated than a drypack with tile on it does.

   It is only a poolhouse shower so it is not used every day, but there is no evidence of any "nastys" growing in it either.

7. 
   custombuilt | Mar 05, 2008 08:58pm | #11

   Ok the only good advice so far has been the kerdi..... but you can do a traditional pan with NO problem.

    I am a profesional tile man and do these almost every day.  You don't Pour anything, you use dry pack deck mud (a dry concrete to sand mix)  first i preslope, this includes putting 15# felt over the playwood, then stapleing down lath, then mixing dry pack morter and floating 1/4 per foot slope.  let that dry and then install the liner, envelope fold corners i run it up the sides 8- 10 inches.  then i install top of drain, minimum height 1 1/4"  put tile spacers around the weep holes, and mix dex mud of 5 parts play sand to 1 part porland cement.  dry mix first then add water, it will look like damp soil when mixed properly, and you can pick it up and make a ball in your hand and it should stick together but not to your hand.  (looks so dry)

   this is packed it and smacked (hard) with a wood float, floated around the drain then i unscrew the drain up to the height of the floor tile.

   The curb is built out of 3 2x4's screwed together with liner over top, only staple on the outside.  after floating the floor i bend lather to fit tightly over the curb, carefull not to poke a hole in the liner and float this with a slightly stiff mix of brick mortar (type N)  pitch toward the shower.

   I put 15 # felt on the walls overlapping the liner and then install backerboard, do NOT nail in the bottom 8 inches!

   YES WATER CAN PENETRANETE THE PAN BUT THAT IS THE IDEA!  DECK MUD IS POROUS SO THE WATER WILL GO DOWN THROUGH THE DECK MUD, AND FOLLOW THE PRESLOPED LINER DOWN OUT THE WEEP HOLES.  WHEN PROPERLY BUILT THESE SHOWERS CAN LAST 80-100 YEARS (PROVEN).

1. 
   jayzog | Mar 06, 2008 12:14am | #12

   I agree with everything you said, but the OP wants the finish of the pan to be concrete.  I don't think a regular drypack mix would work to well for that.

2. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 06, 2008 01:21am | #13

   I've been folding the lathe into the mud bed before I pack it.

   1 1/2" horizontal, up to the top of the curb, across the top and back down the front 1 1/2".

   On the front I fasten a peice of cement board or Denshield about 3/4" higher than the curb. After floating the shower floor I will wedge and brace in place a form on the inside of the curb just a tad lower than the cement board on the outside of the curb.

   I fill and pack this well with the deck mud containg an extra amount of water or latex additive.[email protected]

    

    

    

    

1. 
   custombuilt | Mar 07, 2008 03:03am | #14

   I fold the lathe and set it aside.... after mudding the floor while its still green i press the lathe back down into the deck mud.  Somtimes i put a board on the inside (slighty lower) and another piece of 1x on the outside then float it. 

   Thats fine if they want a concrete floor  but the entire 2 part drain will be in vain.....might as well just do kerdi.......  in the tile industry there are basically two solid guarenteeable methods; dry pack, and kerdi.  I tear out showers every done that have not been built accordingly... go figure

    

    

3. 
   redtoolbox | Mar 08, 2008 05:42pm | #15

   thanks for the advice. I had a problem with the curb and I wanted to do a touch up. Do you have a good idea for this? thanks