Replies

1. 
   Sphere | Feb 12, 2008 02:53am | #1

   Cover it while working?

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   "Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"

1. 
   scramble | Feb 12, 2008 03:05am | #3

   Yeah- that was our second thought, right after 'it woud be great to get this slab stained and sealed FIRST and then we can cover it and be protected'- but trying to get the HO to get her act together (she chose to take on the slab finishing herself-man, I gotta stay away from these jobs-) has been rough-even when everything is laid out on the table! I like the next post though- then were protected.

1. 
   JLazaro317 | Feb 12, 2008 04:03am | #5

   Mud will scrape off the slab and whatever residue is left can be damp mopped off the floor. If she is going to etch the slab, then any minor residual staining should come off.John

   J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.

   Indianapolis, In.

    

2. 
   EricPaulson | Feb 12, 2008 02:57am | #2

   I would INSIST that she be the one to spec the protection. Get it in writing and everyone signs off.

   There, you are now exonerated!

   [email protected]

    

    

    

    

3. 
   Matt | Feb 12, 2008 03:07am | #4

   If you are the GC it's your responsibility.  If you are not the GC, I'd say whoever is the GC is responsible, although as Eric said, have the discussion first.  I'd think covering the floor would be extra $.

4. 
   ruffmike | Feb 12, 2008 04:46am | #6

   As a drywaller, I say protect it. I acid stained my slab, protected it with red rosin paper as soon as it was framed. Keep any tape off the concrete.

                               Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 2/11/2008 9:07 pm by ruffmike

1. 
   calvin | Feb 12, 2008 06:38am | #10

   Mike, no bleed from the red rosin?  I assume it got wet in places.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   ruffmike | Feb 12, 2008 07:27am | #11

   Good point. I had no problems. I don't remember any major spills though, I don't know if the rosin paper bleeds.

    I have been seeing floors protected with a white cardboard/ plastic material in 4x8 sheets lately. Don't know the name, I think their getting it from Whitecap.                            Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

1. 
   calvin | Feb 12, 2008 01:52pm | #12

   I was on a job where the red rosin bled onto a hardwood floor (finished).  Thought I'd mention it as there's brown (kraft paper color) rosin available here through my drywall supply.  Regularly used by my drywall finisher if mess containment is a concern.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   scramble | Feb 12, 2008 02:57pm | #13

   yeah- we use the brown stuff to protect treads and finish floors. Same product as the red paper but without the red dye.

2. 
   calvin | Feb 12, 2008 03:35pm | #14

   Better safe than sorry.

   Welcome to BT if you haven't been yet.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

3. 
   ruffmike | Feb 12, 2008 04:15pm | #15

   Thanks for the tip.                            Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

2. 
   JohnCujie | Feb 13, 2008 05:00am | #21

   You're talking of Thermoply. Had it in Calif., but can't find it in Colorado. Cheap, reusable and bullet proof. JohnGolden State Lumber carries it, as I see you are in the Bay Area. Comes 4x9 also.

   Edited 2/12/2008 9:01 pm ET by JohnCujie

1. 
   ruffmike | Feb 13, 2008 06:42am | #22

   Thats the stuff.                            Mike

       Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.

5. 
   JerryHill | Feb 12, 2008 04:57am | #7

   Sounds to me like she has come up with the staining idea after the fact so................whatever you decide to do in regards to protecting the slab should be at an additional cost. I would consider covering it with luan or osb and taping the joints with duct tape at cost ,that is charge exactly what it will cost you to do it.

6. 
   Jim_Allen | Feb 12, 2008 05:28am | #8

   The stain guys have warned me not to write on the slabs or drip oil from our guns and hoses on it. He said it would all pop out later.

   Get a signed statement imdemnifying yourself.

   Bob's next test date: 12/10/07

7. 
   CardiacPaul | Feb 12, 2008 05:29am | #9

   I say, talk with the floor staining guy & ask what he needs, since he will acid wash the floor in his process, it should not be a big deal.

   I was on a job where the owner decided to to the floor stain thing after everything was done & the flooring guy brought in & used so much water in the process & did so much damage to the project, plus the original floor was saw cut as normal for expansion but the cuts where at angles so the floor guy filled in all the expansion joints & laid out his own & cut new ones. For the stained floor project to look good the expansion joints & the room lay out should be planned out way in advance.

   To sum it all up it turned out like hell

    No one should regard themselve as "God's gift to man." But rather a mere man whos gifts are from God.

8. 
   peteshlagor | Feb 12, 2008 05:24pm | #16

   One does NOT acid stain following power troweling.  (Call the stain manufacturer's technical staff for confirmation.)

   So that slab is already outta the question.  (Although she could put a 'poxy on it.  And some of today's 'poxys will knock you over!)

   She could re-top it with a microtopping and then stain that, but it will have not effect upon your protecting the floor now.

   Tell her to call in some more stainers for their opines.

    

9. 
   6bag | Feb 12, 2008 05:50pm | #17

   stain and seal floor first, (staining sometimes requires washing the stain off the floor, sealing will require plenty of ventilation).  after sealer has cured protect the floor with rosin paper.  if the sealer on the floor gets scratched of scuffed, you can spray a light coat of xylen on it.  this will bring back the luster, but will require venilation.

1. 
   scramble | Feb 12, 2008 08:41pm | #18

   sounds like the way to go- thanks!

1. 
   peteshlagor | Feb 12, 2008 10:20pm | #19

   And provide all of your subs with waivers of responsibility from damage.

   It is unreasonable to do the project in this manner.

    

10. 
    atrident | Feb 13, 2008 12:44am | #20

      Was there a curing agent applied to the slab after the pour? This screws up everything.