Condensate and Pressure relief valves
Ya I know I dissappeared and didn’t finish the gas piping thread I had a good reason and I’ll swing back by that thread in a sec but first..
I have a mod-con boiler and need to route the condensate and the line from the pressure relief valve.
The condensate line is 3/4″ PVC can I route it to gravity drain thru the wall and just drain it into the ground outside?
The pressure relief line-has to withstand 250 deg temp so I’m guessing only copper for this? I would like to run this line out thru the sidewall of the house and have it terminate slightly above the ground also is this acceptable?
If I have to drain these things into a sanitary sewer I’m screwed cause the nearest line is on the other side of the house…I could use a condensate pump but prefer to gravity drain everything.
thanks,
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Replies
Here's a picture of what I'm talking about.
View Image
Funny the article in this months mag about how to do radiant cheaply....surely not how I did it...
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Edited 1/26/2009 8:21 pm by madmadscientist
Look your manual over closely, on the Munchkin Contender I installed they nixed gravity drain to freeze-possible area. Solution was to drain into cond. pump and pump out to same spot.
Inspector was OK with dumping outside. I did dig a small pit and filled with 3/4 gravel, the whole area is gravel anyway. The boiler puts out a fair amount of condensate, might make mess on dirt or skating rink on concrete.
Yes to copper on P&T, here you can use CPVC, but copper mo betta.
Going on three months now, works fine.
Doncha just love lookin' at all that piping? Looks so raw and purposeful...or something!
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
Hey, I don't see the gas line in that picture!!
Actually though, I have done what you intend to do in AZ w a/c cond and the p/r from gas water heater. Inspector didn't say a thing, and all the other houses in the area had the same set up.
Can't say what I did is right or that it will fly in your area.
Seriously, what about the black iron pipe?
Harry
Harry I updated that thread it should show up towards the top.
I removed all the old black iron pipe from the house but I have yet to run the new galv. pipe to the new appliance spots.
In my previous house a pro plumber installed the tankless WH the same way running the PR line thru the wall and ending it a couple inches above grade same thing with the cond line from the furnace.
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Hate to but in here but Galvanized used to be considered inferior for gas piping as the zinc may flake off and get into your burner? Has this changed?
Apparently it's regional. In some areas (eg, near the shore) galv is preferred because it resists corrosion better.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Hate to but in here but Galvanized used to be considered inferior for gas piping as the zinc may flake off and get into your burner? Has this changed?
Been there done that check out the thread below..any advice on how to run the condensate lines and the pressure relief line?
114672.1
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer
Warmer climates usually allow the t&p Vv to be discharged outside (12" Max 6" Min). No Unions, Valves or a reduction in size is allowed here. Colder climates (Where it may freeze) have the discharge on the interior. As for the condensate line you will have to contact your building official/inspector and ask him. It might need a neutralizer bath before being discharged. A lot of municipalities don't allow you to discharge the condensate into the municipal waste system anyway, that's why it's important to contact a local building inspector. Hope this helps.
Daniel, condensate drains are sometimes drilled through the basement slab and allowed to drain into the stone base, or eventually to the sump pit.
Do NOT pipe a T&P relief valve in such a way that could form a trap. In cold conditions this could freeze and under the right (wrong?) conditions cause a boiler explosion.
Rich, not a P&H specialist.
Chck with your local code folks - note on the T/P valve, the drain pipe HAS to be at least the same diameter as the valve discharge
"Ask not what the world needs. Ask what makes you come alive... then go do it. Because what the world needs is people who have come alive."
Howard Thurman
They get freaky around here if the pressure relief piping isn't inches from the floor due the chance of scalding. Can't imagine they would be too thrilled with you shooting steam out the side of your house at unsuspecting people.
They get freaky around here if the pressure relief piping isn't inches from the floor due the chance of scalding. Can't imagine they would be too thrilled with you shooting steam out the side of your house at unsuspecting people.
Well obviously, I am talking about bringing the line thru the wall and then having it turn straight down ending a few inches above the ground. I want to do the same with the condensate line from the mod-con boiler.
Where's PlumbBill when you need him?
Daniel Neumansky
Restoring our second Victorian home this time in Alamdea CA. Check out the blog http://www.chezneumansky.blogspot.com/
Oakland CA
Crazy Homeowner-Victorian Restorer