Replies

1. 
   DanH | Oct 17, 2007 02:47am | #1

   Normally that connection's made with a compression fitting.

   If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
2. 
   DaveRicheson | Oct 17, 2007 02:53am | #2

   normally the chrome stop valves are threaded and you use a short threaded chrome nipple out of the wall. The nipple is threaded on both ends, so it goes into a female copper adapter inside the wall.

   You best bet is to use a compression angle stop on the copper stubbed out of the wall. Cut the copper off enough for the escutcheon and the compression fitting to fit tight to the wall.

    

   Dave

1. 
   JonE | Oct 17, 2007 03:10am | #4

   In my case it's a copper ell stub connected to PEX.  No threads, and no female fitting inside the wall. 

   I can use a compression fitting but is there any reason not to?  Appearance and/or potential for leakage? 

1. 
   DanH | Oct 17, 2007 03:18am | #5

   There is a small amount of art to getting good, no-leak compression connections, but once you get one, if you have good quality components (mainly a compression nut that won't crack), it's pretty much good for life.You'll have to do a compression connection on the riser tube anyway, and that's actually more difficult to get right than on the larger pipe.(The art:
   1: Make a good clean square cut on the pipe.
   2: Some people like to lubricate the pieces with teflon grease or some such -- not required but maybe helpful.
   3: Most important -- make sure the pipe is pressed ALMOST all the way onto the pipe. It should be pressed all the way on and then brought back 1/32 to 1/16 of an inch, pulling the ferrule back with it. This "head space" allows the pipe to stretch slightly as the nut is tightened and the ferrule compresses the pipe.)
   If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader

1. 
   PatchogPhil | Oct 17, 2007 06:22am | #7

   It has been recommended to me to use gel toothpaste as a lubricant.  Gel with no mixed in paste,  so there is no grit.  If any toothpaste doesn't get all washed away ,  it won'm harm anyone or taste nasty.

     

   Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?

2. 
   plumbbill | Oct 17, 2007 04:52am | #6

   In my case it's a copper ell stub connected to PEX.

   That poses another problem---- Pex manufactures have an 18" spread between soldering & a pex connection.

   “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

3. 
   plumbbill | Oct 17, 2007 03:05am | #3

   Are you dead set on using the solder style stop?

   I am a pro & cannot guarantee a NON discolored finish product.

   Soft solder melts at about 480 degrees, chrome discolors at just over 500 degrees--- pretty small window to deal with.

   They do have soldering clay that will keep parts cool, we use it when brazing (1400 degrees) copper to brass valves for med gas.

   If it was me I would use a compression style stop that uses a nut & ferrule to make a seal.

   “The Hand of providence has been so conspicuous in all this, that he must be worse than an infidel that lacks faith, and more than wicked, that has not gratitude enough to acknowledge his obligations.” —George Washington

4. 
   bolts | Oct 17, 2007 07:14am | #8

   The answer is simple you do not solder it use a compression fitting of which takes your fancy and or flexible  connections to your outlets

   You can make it fool proof but not idiot proof