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Connecting framing to log house

oldlou | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 16, 2002 03:28am

I am adding a framed addition to a log house and I am not sure of the best way to get a weather and insect tight connection where the walls come together. The walls of the addition will be perpendicular to the wall of the log home.

Right now I have been considering two options. 1) cut out 4 1/2 in wide vertical groves in the log house exterior to the depth of log valleys and lag bolt the 2×4 into the center of this grove with sill sealer between the two. The 1/2 in space inside and out would allow insetting the drywall and sheathing. 2) Routing out two 1/2 in groves 3 1/2 inches apart, again to the valleys depth, bolting the 2×4 directly to the outside of the logs, filling the valley spaces with foam, and the insetting the drywall and sheathing.

Option 1 is a bit labor intensive. Option 2 involves the use of canned foam, and I don’t know if it will stop boring insects.

Is there a better way? Insetting of the drywall is a must. Mudding the valleys is an invitation to constant cracking. I should note that the log home is only three years old and while most of the log drying, and shrinking, has occurred, it still could move as it continues to age.

Log homes, look fantastic, nothing but a big box of problems.

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  1. brucepirger | Sep 16, 2002 05:10pm | #1

    Just a quick note...sounds like you are already aware. As the logs dry, they will continue to shrink and settle. I think your plan A is customary, cutting a long "notch" and starting the framing in there. Oversize for the drywall set-in.

    BUT, you must allow for the logs to settle. Usually this is done by cutting slots in the 2x4 that will attach to the logs. Screw the framing to the logs at the top of the slots...and as the logs settle, the screw will settle down through the slot, and no hangups. Of course, this means you must have room at the top of the framing, etc.

    If the house has been heated for 3 years, much of the moving should be done...but there will be some left. Depends on the logs, weather, etc. Milled or full scribe?

    Log work indeed changes everything...but oh the beauty.

    There's quite a bit of info available on the web. Becareful though what you trust. I am no expert, just a huge log building fan.

    Good luck!

    1. PhilEves | Sep 17, 2002 03:10am | #2

      Where y'at? I could help if'n you're close enough...I'm in Vancouver,B.C. Canada, you anywhere near? Cheers,Phil.

      If not close, you can e-mail me and I'll tell you what we do in Whistler, B.C. Canada, and it always works...

      If it is to be, 'twil be done by me..

      1. oldlou | Sep 17, 2002 05:59am | #5

        Spent one day in Vancouver last year during a stay on Whidbey Island near Seattle. Had a fantastic dim-sum (sp?) lunch at a restaurant recommended by a Canadian border guard. We may have been the only people in the place who did not speak Chinese. Walked about shopping and talking with your city's friendly folk. After, we had a great Greek dinner down by a harbor shopping mall and very near a floating seafood restaurant.

        It might seem that I spend a lot of time concerned with food but when you live in a very small town in western NC, where dinning options are a bit limited, you tend to remember memorable meals.

        I sure hope that the pine beetle which is devastating our pines never gets to your area. Thanks for the offer to help but I think 3500 miles is a long way to go just to gouge out a couple of grooves.

        1. Piffin | Sep 17, 2002 08:07am | #6

          Even as we speak, Pine beetles are ravishing trees in Colorado - not so far away from there.Excellence is its own reward!

  2. Piffin | Sep 17, 2002 03:17am | #3

    Lou, The big box is to keep all the caulking tubes in. LOL

    What you describe as option one is a slip joint and is customary. I've done quite a few and it's not as hard as it sounds. a few rips with the circ saw at the outside vertical lines and a few in between and whack away with the straught claw hammer to remove the waste. A little chisling at top and bottom can be avoided by putting a shorter nailer in first with just tow or three slottd lags, then adding a full length stud.

    Excellence is its own reward!
    1. oldlou | Sep 17, 2002 05:31am | #4

      Thanks all for confirming that I was on the right track. The short stud idea sure was inviting, till I remembered that the full length  of the drywall needs to be inset. So I guess I'll just hone up some chisels and whittle for a while. Thanks again.

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