*
I’ve got a 100 year old home with a very solid cast iron tub in the bathroom. I am remodeling the bathroom and the tub needs a facelift. Does anyone have any first hand experience with the quality of in place resurfacing of the enamel coat? Am I better off just going out and buying a new unit?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
The FHB podcast crew chats about whether or not coil stock on fascia and rake trim is necessary.
Featured Video
How to Install Cable Rail Around Wood-Post CornersRelated Stories
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
*
Martin just check out the yellow pages and get a few estimates, references and get it redone.
A new one will cost you an arm and a leg and won't be as pleasing as the original.
Properly done, the new finish will last as long as the original.
*I purchased a kit for this purpose from A-Ball Plumbing and am eager to try it -- but you need to leave the tub alone for 7 days afterwards & we only have 1 full bath at the moment.This was discussed in a thread a long time ago. My impression was that folks were generally dissatisfied with the results, but it appears to depend on the condition of the tub & patience of the refinisher.
*Martin:I had the same situation for a client last year--100 yr old house, tub built around on 3.5 sides. So I checked around. Had a guy from a national franchise come out. Seemed to know what he was doing. Used ventilation, acid etch, power sanding of chips, and high volume-low pressure application of a two part epoxy. The tub was supposed to be usable in 48 hours. While working on the vinyl flooring the rivets in my jeans made gouges in the finish (well after 72 hours). Cost $260.00 the first time. $60.00 for the touch up. No way is the new surface as good as new. Only reason I did it was because my client had me build a brand new master bath and the old 1st floor bath was rarely going to see any use--just visitors to the toilet and sink. There may be some better method out there but if possible I'd change to a new cast or Americast tub. Equal or less cost for the fixture and if you're doing it yourself....well, that's sweat equity that will prove to be worth it down the road. Do get some help moving the new tub--you can smash the old one out with a sledge (hearing protection, eye protection highly recommended). Thor
*I hear all the recoat processes are failing....It's a matter of time and use.sledge hammer time for me.J
*I am not a ceramic engineer, but we make porcelain insulators here all day long. What we do is reglaze pieces that were dinged or damaged after a part exploded in the kiln. We grind, sand, reglaze and re-fire the part in the kiln.What's my point.The porcelain finish on your tub started out as glass beads that were melted and fused to the iron. It seems to me that it would be possible to sandblast and re-porcelain the tub, then re-fire it. Now the catch may be the iron. Iron doesn't like to be heated and cooled too many times before it cracks.The repair things are epoxy - very hard indeed, dman good bond too. But not nearly as durable as porcelain.There are two companies in Scottsville, NY that coat metal with sprayed ceramic. One is Heany Industries, the other is Swain Coatings. They use it in race engines, aircraft, etc. I'll bet if you could fix it in place someone there would know about it. I'll further bet that if it is possible, guys there are bringing in stuff from home and fixing it!!-Rob
*Rob,To restate my post...I have seen several failed recoat jobs...I have yet to see one that did not fail.It's a band aid job sold with "snakeoil" marketing.J