I have been ask to construct some lattice panels that will go between post in a deck.
There are several different sizes, but they will be about 4′ 10″ by 2′ 6″ and 5′ 6″ by 2′ 6″.
They will be cedar frame with heavey duty cedar lattice (3/4″ thick).
I am looking at 2 designs, either 2 by on edge (probably 1/2 of 2 x 6 rip) or 2×4 picture frame. If I go with the picture frame I will probably go with the a center stile to balance the look.
I am leaning for the 2 by on edge because I don’t think that the customer wants this to be a focal point, but something simple.
But in either case they the frames won’t be that strong because of the size and I plan on gluing and screw the lattice to the frame to give it some strenght.
They will be in an area where they is little change of damage (ie, no kids, no 120 lb dogs and plantings will keep people away).
I had planned on rabbet the edges of the frame for the lattice to set in.
But my quess is why. Since the back is not seen why not skip the rabbet and just attach the lattice to the back of the frame.
Replies
I did some lattice panels some time back using some joinery techniques for the frames - it was WAY too time consuming. Just tack your lattice panels on the back of your frames like you said. It will save you a lot of time and will look just as good - or at least nearly as good.
Also, I gather that you are building the lattice itself. This will take a lot of time and be somewhat expensive. How many panels is it?
Generally though, as in most projects, try to use a design that makes use of the sizes of material that you have readily available. Stay away from having to rip a lot of material, doing a bunch of routing, etc. Unless there is quite a hefty price tag for labor on the job...
No, they are stock 2x8 panels, about $23 at the BB stores.I have made some small pieces of lattice before, maybe 1 x 2. It is way too much work.Was also think about rectangular lattice. The local 84 lumber and UBC lumber yard did not have any kind of cedar lattice.Found one big supplier, about 20 miles away that had it for $70. So plain diagonal it will be.Unfortunately the size of the openings means that I will be 40% of the 4x8 sheets on 6 of them and mybe 50% on the 7th. Unless I went with a fancy design that did a lot of mullins and muttons none of the scrap can be used." Unless there is quite a hefty price tag for labor on the job... Unless there is quite a hefty price tag for labor on the job..."Actually I want to bid a fixed cost and keep it simple and thus make some on the labor. I think that it is the type of job that if I make it too fance (too much time) I can't afford to charge near as much per hour.And there is no need for it. Very simple plain screened deck, just want see the space under the deck. And with the changes in the ground elevation too fancy a design would make you look at the screening and not the deck. And that in turn will show the irregularities.But I am still very far from known what I am doing on that.
Sounds like you are on the right track. Like I said, don't make it complicated. And yes, working with lattice, there is a lot of waste.
One more thing - not sure if you have worked with lattice before - this one is a little hard to explain - but the panels are not as reversible as you might think. Here is one way to think of it - say you were working with horizontal/vertical grid lattice. You would probably want either all panels to have the horizontal pieces out - or maybe all panels with the vertical pieces out. It's the same with diagonal lattice... hope that made sense.
good luck.
Gotcha.The last lattice I worked with was thin stuff and I don't think that would matter much if the "bias" was reversed.I hope that I can get by use just 2 cuts on the lattice.But after I make the frames I am going to overlay them and see if I can make it so that there is "reasonable" margins on each side. Not too critical in this application, but I don't want one side falling exactly on the joints and the other right in the middle of the spaces.
made mine from 1x stock for edging, pocket screws and construction adhesive to put them together - simple butt joints with a notch for looks - then staple the lattice to the back - other thing is how are you going attach the lattice to the deck/porch -
The size of these I don't think that 1" stock will be strong enough.I plan on use some 3" screws through the frame into the post.Except for one, which will be removable for access. With something that big I don't want to use hinges for fear that it would be too eazy to put a hand on the frame about 4ft from the hinges and use it for support.So for that one I can going to a couple of blocks scewed to the post for it to set on and some painted slide bolts to go into the post.Looking at what is available I found some 1/2" by 20" cain post. Way bigger than needed, but looks like the best option. But there is gate slide bolt that might work, but it need a wider frame to mount, but I might make it work.
Hi Bill... we do a lot of custom panels... for inspiration have a click...
http://www.winterburngroup.on.ca/subcategory/trellis_trelliswork.html
and on the fence page you will see some rediculously large trellis panels...
http://www.winterburngroup.on.ca/subcategory/fences_designs.html
Let me know if you want a copy of any of the trellis (lattice) plans here... will send them to you for free mr. Bill.
http://www.gardenstructure.com/subcategory/garden_trellis_plans_designs.html
(I'd be interested in your critique and it may save you some figuring--they are all easy to adapt).
L
GardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it!
Thanks.Those are some very nice designs.But as I told Matt I think for this project the plainer the better.But if the house had a picket fence I might look at something like the pickets and rails out of this fence.http://www.winterburngroup.on.ca/detail_image.php?ID=292But there is chain link fence on one side and part of the back and cedar privacy on the other side.
T003 may work if you make 2 out of 3 verticals 1x material rather than 2x2... and change the density. That one is very simple and can be more private than those in the photos.
L
GardenStructure.com~Build for the Art of it!
Last time I did the same job, I half lapped the frames (5/4 stock IIRC), and stapled the lattice directly to the back......
used a scm saw with the rabbit stop to do the half laps...time consuming, believe I'd do it differently if I had to do it again, perhaps a router w/large offset base to hog out the half laps...
No fancy lap joints. Too much work.But I like the idea of 5/4 stock.I am going to call around and see if any of the local place have it.
Bill - I assume you have looked at the different patterns on the lattice. I did one a while ago using the "square" lattice where lattice runs parrallel to the two edges of the board, rather than the "diagonal". It gave the screen under the porchg a nice look, a little different than what most people are used to, more like the old style, hand built lattice panels.
Used 1x6 for the frames, glue, screws and cleats where necessary to help hold it, all tied together by the lattice with lotsa nails.
Don