Construction method for heated shed / workshop
I’m in the planning phase for an outbuilding which will primarily be used as a woodworking shop. Size will be approximately 350 sq ft. (Probably 16×22 or 16×24). I’m in Connecticut.
I’m looking at different options for construction:
1. Buy a pre-fab “shed”. There are a couple of local companies who do this Downsides are width is limited to 14′, and framing isn’t the best for insulation (2×4 walls, skid foundation with uninsulated plywood floor). Rough prices are $18k for structure and install (crushed stone pad). Insulation, electrical, etc would be extra. In addition to heat loss through the floor, the longevity and risk of animal “guests” underneath with this type of foundation are of some concern.
2. Build onsite (may hire out or do myself) I don’t have quotes or materials estimates yet. My thought is this would open up the option for a slab floor with insulation under, but having a foundation put in will be more than the skids on crushed stone option. If I do the build myself (other than site and concrete work), I’m thinking I can offset the increased foundation cost.
Any thoughts for one vs the other?
Thanks,
Dave
Replies
I just installed one of
I just installred one of these "skid" sheds but I put it on piers to deal with the uplift requirements. (18x18x18 concrete footer with a 12" riser and simpson straps in the concrete). The shed was engineered to meet 150 MPH with nothing but the skids tied down. (or so they say)
I did not insulate the floor but it would have been pretty easy to glue in rigid foam planks while it was jacked up, then drop it down on your stone base. The floor stringers are only 2x4 tho. With the skids you could get 6" of foam and still have an inch of clearance until it nestled down in the gravel. I doubt it would actually crush the foam much if it did touch.
I had to get this thing 12" off the ground to get it up on the piers. There was plenty of room to get under it. Just be sure you have it blocked up well
I have 2 thoughts.
#1 is build the shed as large and as tall as you can afford. It's cheaper to build the space in the first place than to add on later. and it sucks trying to handle 4x8 plywood in a shop with 8' ceilings.
#2 is site build the thing. Those pre-fab buildings aren't usually built particularly well. I would never be happy with the quality of one.
My thoughts, based on having built and occupied several woodworking shops:
• If you don't need a concrete floor, then don't build one. Wood is much more comfortable to stand on for extended periods and a dropped chisel will fare better on wood. A good grade of plywood or even osb will look warm and inviting. Hardwood can be added later if the budget doesn't allow it now.
• I've worked in shops with an 8' ceiling so I know it is doable. I'd plan on at least 9' if you can. The added cost is minimal.
• Plan out your shop layout before drawing the construction plans.
• You can't have too many outlets.
• Windows are nice as is an oversized door. An overhead or garage door opening onto a covered outside work apron (concrete or brick/stone) will be grand.
• Build with an aesthetic in mind. The pre-fab structure probably won't fill that bill.
Along those lines, a steel building with an overhead door might work and then spray foam inside for insulation.
You can deal with the concrete floor by using fatigue mats in front of the machines.
Lean-to
And a lean-to (already mentioned?) makes a great works space It doens't have to be part of the original build but it makes it easier if you do the main build with the lean-to in mind. Things to consider is ceiling heoght unde the lean-to and conneciton to the main building. I use mine for painting, heavy sanding, big routing ops (if the piece(s) is/are that mobile), and sizing sheets if I don't want to bring them in or don't want to.
Plan, plan, plan
Build it yourself, you'll be a lot happier with the final product.
Build it with low maintenacne in mind. You want to work IN it and not ON it.
Finished mine about a year ago. Spent a lot of time in Sketchup placing the equipment and figuring out a workflow and set up that would work well before any site work started. Garage door on one end. Not that I use it a lot buut it's nice for bringing in larger things and making it interesting for resale.
Opposite end has a dbl 2-6 door in line with the table saw so unlimited on length of rips. Saw is set 9ft from the so don't often have to open up for ripping.
Ceiling has to be high enough to swing sheets, 8' works, 9' is nice 10' is better but 10' starts to challenge the aesthetics of the size of the building.
Slabs with a GD make it useful for resale, you may never put a car in it but the next owner most likely will.
Viny cladding and metal roof (work IN not ON it) on mine. Metal roof was considerably close to 25yr shingles. That was easy math.
I foamed mine, expensive at first but cheap to own; to cool it to 76f in the GA summers is $1.50/day. Windows are nice but they are heat-holes and take up wall space where you could be hanging tools.
Gambrel roof adds a lot of useful storage above for not much additional costs. An access issue is created though, inside stairs take up valuable floor space, drop down attic access stairs limit what can be put in there, and exterior doors to access it have height minimums.
Lighting is t-8 tubes every 40" the entire width of the building. It's easier to turn off lights or put in lower watttage tubes than it is to add more fixtures after it's rocked.
But none of that is any good if you can't make a work flow in it. If you can figure out Sketchup I think you can still DL shop machines from the Component Warehouse. IIRC Gary Katz's site had a SU shop machine file to DL too.
On your lighting, it is best
O)n your lighting, it is best to split up the lights on separate circuits so you can turn on every other one or hit them all depending on your requirements.
I also have motion controlled lights that provide enough light to walk around, for those times when you are just going out to get something but I have that kind of light everywhere I go inside and out. I like edison base fixtures for that so you can put CFLs in there in the summer and incandescents in the winter (if it gets cold there) because they come on right away when it is cold.
lumens
Hard to get an edison base to give the lumen of a t8. Have yet to see a work shop with too much illumination.
Good point on breaking up the lghts to different circuits. Depending on how many lights there is, you may have no choice but to split into different circuits. IIRC it's an 80% load for the breakers listed rating.
That leads us to power for the OP's shop. The more amps to the panel the merrier the user. Separate meter is very handy.
The edison base fixtures are only for the motion detected "walking around:" light.
It is great for those times when you are just going in to grab something or drop something off. The light comes on when you walk in and it goes out after you leave. No hands. It is not confused with working light.
What are the building codes in CT?
Do not need a permit for 199.9 sq ft or less here in WA, so any new outbuilding is 199.9 sq feet floor area.
Going from 199 sq ft to 201 sq ft would more than quadurple the cost for me due to permits, time spent dicking with the building depts, 2 month delay, etc.....
Like John said, it is a shed/shop, so DIY 100% of it. Easy to be under $10 sq foot for everything if you shop around and get your cabinets off craigslist for free, or low price from HFH restore, etc.
2 years ago built a 199 sq ft shop for my CNC mill, 11 ft ceilings, 3 cu yard mill foundation so concrete floor an obvious choice. Total cost was under one thousand $$, about $5 sq ft, way less than the mill cost. Concrete, roofing, and insulation the major costs as could scrounge most everything else. Even for all the concrete used, mixed it all myself using the '$1 broken bags' from big box stores.
During the summer you can often score 10 bags of $1 concrete mix a day if you prepay and pickup the next morning.
Scored a bunch of utility grade 2x8s for 'studs', used them on 2 ft centers , surplus damaged plywood on both sides, stronger than 16" stud construction.
Made a 10 ft by 6 ft 6" thick insulated outswing door for that shop.
Do not forget to shop craigslist and garage sales for a few months before you build, adjust you building plans according tot eh materials you can find at 10 cents on the big box dollar!
PS: windows, if you like to have natural light, but not picky about a clear view? IF so, folks give avways lots of internally fogged up glass doors and window, you can do quadruple pane for great light and low heat loss for zero material costs. I used 3 ft by 7 ft glass doors placed with bottom edge horizontally 5 ft above the floor - fantastic bench lighting.
Workshop- or Garage?
The size you're considering is very similar to that of a 2-car garage. Why not make one?
This means a slab foundation, perhaps with an integral 'trench' for running power to the middle of the floor. Be sure to have a 'man door' in addition to the garage doors.
The only major changes I would make to your typical garage would be a much higher ceiling (12-ft) and plenty of skylights. I might consider a layout where a "two-car" garage would have a single-car door, towards the middle, with a deep "alcove" to either side.
Making it a "garage" is a
Making it a "garage" is a possibility for one of the two options I'm looking at for placement on the property. It would have to be officially a one car garage to stay within zoning rules (max of 3 total garage bays for my size home), but I don't believe oversizing it would be an issue.
Here's a link to free shop planner from Grizzly tools (note: you're not obligated to buy their tools in order to use it) I think you'll find 16x24 is the smallest you'd want to go. It you plan on doing a substantial amount of work in there, then build as big and tall as you can. Insulate the hell out of it. It will pay off.
http://www.grizzlyindustrial.com/workshopplanner