Replies

1. 
   notascrename | May 14, 2008 09:46pm | #1

   filler you see is called bonding adhesive. glues fresh fiberglass surfaces together.

   if you can get the joint open enough to put in some stiff sandpaper, clean up the joint and whipe in some damm resin. and it should bond.  sounds ugly but some pop rivets wouldn't hurt.  -JIM

2. 
   PeterJ | May 14, 2008 09:57pm | #2

   I can't quite picture it,  are we talking two flanges at near right angles to surface? Is the structure failing?

   Polyester resin by itself has little strength and is brittle, that's what the glass fiber provides. Epoxy resin is somewhat better. If this area is subject to movement but not structural, polysulfide or polyurethane sealer would work better.

   Any chance you could post a pic?

    

   Everything will be okay in the end.  If it's not okay, it's not the end. 

3. 
   DanH | May 14, 2008 10:18pm | #3

   In general, polyester resin is used, not epoxy.

   You need to get the surfaces bare and clean (no dirt, paint, or gelcoat), and scratch them up a little. Then paint on some poly resin, then apply a layer of fiberglass fabric saturated in resin. The fiberglass fabric should extend 2-4 inches each side of the joint.

   Note that this should be done from the inside if at all possible, in order to leave a smooth outside and not require removal of the gelcoat.

   What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. --Bertrand Russell
4. 
   EricPaulson | May 15, 2008 02:09am | #4

   Look for 3M Marine adhesive/sealant.

   Sticks like crazy, remains flexible and lasts a looooong time.

   [email protected]

    

    

    

    

5. 
   2weekstops | May 15, 2008 04:22am | #5

   just cleaning and filling the joint with resin wont work.  Thats alot like fixing a drywall seam with no tape and just packing it full of mud.  Not a good idea. 

   Epoxies actually bond better to polyester resin based fiberglass than polyester resin bonds to itself ( once the polyester resin is cured you cant achieve the

   chemical bond) .  Sand the joint to arou 6-8" wide the length of the seam.  Cut three layers of cloth first one covers area 1" over seam on either side then each

   subsequent layer 2" larger. Notice you have a much larger sanding area than is covered by the patches.  The trick is, not to patch anything that hasn't been thoroughly sanded.  That is where most fiberglass patches fail. thoroughly wet

   out cloth before applyinbg each layer,also coat repair area before first layer is applied .  Small patch you should be able to work it with a 3" throw away brush. 

   Any resin will do .  epoxies do work best though.  System Three And West System epoxies are probably the most popular and easy to find.  Watch the kick times on the epoxies ,, the more you mix the quicker it seems to kick off,

   (exothermic reactions)HA HA big words!!!  If it gets hot ....pitch it and start over  believe me!!  Anyway didn't think I'd see a boat Q? in here  Iworked in a Boatyard for 15 yrs .  My family has been in the business for 3 generations.  I just got sick of it and started building something else  :)

1. 
   cliffy | May 15, 2008 05:26pm | #7

   Check out the thread I tried to describe the joint a little better.

   Alot of experience with different stuff here, thought I might find a carpenter type that also is a boat fanatic!

   HAve a good day

   CLiffy

6. 
   cliffy | May 15, 2008 05:23pm | #6

   I have not yet figured out how to post pics here so I'll try to describe the joint a little better.

   2 layers of fibreglass touching, both running horizontal, then they take a 90 degree turn down and run about 1/2 inch.   The down part is where they are still parallel yet the gap between the two varies and the presen joint/ filler is cracking and does not keep out water.  The joint is only visible while looking up.  When the boat is on saw horses this is easy. When it is in the water this join is inches from the surface of the lake.

   The joint runs the entire perimeter of the boat which is about 17 feet long and about 2 feet wide in the centre.

   Does this change any opinions?

   Havea good day

   Cliffy

1. 
   DanH | May 15, 2008 05:30pm | #8

   OK, all you really want to do is clean out the joint and caulk it with a marine sealant. Easier to do with the boat upside down or on its side, if you can manage that.It's been 30 years since I built my boat, so likely there's a better sealant now than the nasty old Phenoseal in a can.
   What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. --Bertrand Russell