Contact Cement and stainless steel issue

We did a coffee shop renovation in the Fall that included stainless banding attached to the edges of the counter-top (1 1/2″ wide and about 1/16′ thick. We attached the stainless steel with contact cement after sanding the arborite base of the edge and the scouring the back of the stainless steel as well as cleaning with methyl hydrate. Some of the steel is now separating from the counter edge and I need to do some fixing.
My questions relate to additional ways of attaching stainless steel to arborite, (using a syringe with epoxy? to give some fresh adhesion to the loose bits??) and if there are known reasons for such a failure of the contact cement. When we applied it it seemed to have great grab but 4 months later there are some problems arising.
We are trying to avoid mechanically attaching the steel with decorative pins so right now I am looking for glue-based solutions.
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I would try posting this under "General Discussion"--people won't expect this topic here in "Fests". Anyway, I've heard you can reactivate the glue with heat. May find advice under installing laminate countertops--don't know why stainless would be different than laminate in terms of adhesives.
Not sure how to move this discussion to another folder.I may have to use heat although the idea about polyurethane glue may be useful. My plan 'B' is to inject some Gorilla glue or other brand of urethane glue if I can have adequate clamp positions.
To clarify what ponytl said. Poly caulk (like PL Premium) and poly glue (like Gorilla) are different critters. PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
PL Premium is a polyurethene glue like gorilla, but with more solids and fewer expansion agents. It is not a caulk just because it comes in a "caulking" tube.
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You're right Pif, I guess what I was getting at was that the handling and application characteristics of each is different, not really interchangable for most intents and purposes.PJ
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
but... but Pif it's used as caulk...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Bhaaaa
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I would say Piffin screws would be the best approach and the best lubricant for drilling stainless is evaporated milk..............
On a hill by the harbour
Gorilla glue, and other poly glues, are moisture-activated. Don't know if they would work on metal and SS apps.
i've had very good luck with polyurathane caulk... stainless to anything... you have to tape/clamp it up for 24hrs... and there is some cleanup with a razor... but never had any come loose...
good luck
p
I have had good luck with good quality pure silicone
The metal must be very clean though !
On a hill by the harbour
Edited 2/5/2007 11:27 pm by Novy
3M makes a double stick tape that would handle that... the one used to put on the body guard moulding and emblems on cars...
black or yellow gorilla snot by 3M is another... (weather stripping adhesive)
outdoor mesh style double stick carpet tape is another...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Any idea what the actual trade name for the gorilla snot is? Sounds interesting.
Have you ever tried loctite 330?
On a hill by the harbour
I thought everybody knew what gorilla snot was...
(3M Super Weatherstrip Adhesive) white tube w/ red and white label..
yup on the 330.. like the 3M better....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I will have to give it a try. Is it urethane based ?
On a hill by the harbour
DIIK....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I am wondering if you used a solvent based rather than water base contact adhesive. Whenever I have glued a metal onto a substrate the recommended glue was a solvent based contact cement.
I can imagine that location being very challenging. Other than constant bumping and dragging contacts, the only issue I am thinking of is whether there is any thermal challenge, such as a nearby dishwasher, or other heat releasing appliance that regularly changes the size of the edge through expansion and contraction.
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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When I got to the site this afternoon the stainless steel was attached on both sides of about a three foot long bulge of loose stainless steel (1 1/2" wide by 10 et long strip) where it had come loose from the counter edge. It stands out from the counter edge by about 1/2" so heat expansion is the most likely culprit. The area of the bulge and loosening of the contact cement is on the other side of the cabinet wall, and above the motor from a five foot wide 32" deep under the counter cooler. It appears as if the heat from the compressor has expanded the steel and weakened the glue. Now I have to figure out what I need for expansion gaps along the edge without harming the look of the counter edge too much.I still trust solvent based contact cement as the glue since we know how to use it for best effect. It is just the metal expansion issue that we have to sort out before we reglue it.
Which side is separating? Did you coat both sides and let it dry like yer supposed to, or apply stick the strips on wet?