Replies

1. 
   steve | Apr 17, 2003 08:29am | #1

   i laminate several countertops a week and have been using lepages latex contact cement ever since it came out.

   what is the question about compatability? as far as i know doesnt matter about whose C Cement you use with whose laminate

1. 
   chuckdua | Apr 17, 2003 02:39pm | #2

   What I meant about compatibility was: Is one contact cement[water based] like Formica 160 compatible with other similar cements.

   I've certainly heard of Lepage, but was not aware they made contact cement.

   I'm in CT. Where are you located?

   Repeating one of my original questions: Is Formica still in business?

1. 
   jc21 | Apr 17, 2003 04:44pm | #3

   I believe they still are in business but is operating under Chapter 11 (restructuring).

   http://www.hoovers.com/co/capsule/3/0,2163,57383,00.html

2. 
   steve | Apr 18, 2003 02:43am | #6

   wow, compatability between brands, cant answer that one im afraid, but really cant see why not.

   why do you ask? trying to use up an old stock?

   when i laminate a countertop of a reasonable size, i always pickup a fresh gallon or two for the job.  I have found that a can that has been open for a while doesnt seem to work as well

3. 
   steve | Apr 18, 2003 02:44am | #7

   sorry missed last two questions

   im in sarnia ontario canada

   and yes formica is still in business

2. 
   Robogabs | May 20, 2006 01:10am | #11

   I bought a home where the countertops were done by an amateur. They either put the laminate on "wet" or didn't use a J-roller. I replaced one bathroom entirely, but the kitchen countertops are lifting in several places. If I don't have to, I'd like to avoid replacing it there as there is a lot to replace.

   Is there any way of getting it to adhere after the fact, Steve?

1. 
   steve | May 22, 2006 08:21pm | #12

   not a lot youccan do after the fact except:

   heat up the affected areas with a heat gun, lots of heat but watch for delaminating the formica material, then roll the bubbles out with a j roller trying to work the bubbles to the edge, continue rolling while the contact cement cures

   if a really large bubble occurs in the mioddle of a large area, try drilling a 1/8 inch hole from underneath up to the laminate to allow air to escape

2. 
   toolin63 | Apr 17, 2003 05:35pm | #4

   Take the wilsonart glue back! Doesn't hold up as well as formica brand. I used it not long ago and was very displeased with it preformance.

   Men do not quit playing because they grow old; they grow old because they quit playing!     Holmes Sr. Oliver Wendell

1. 
   chuckdua | Apr 17, 2003 10:03pm | #5

   Thanks for the tip. I didn't buy the WilsonArt and I'm happy about that.

   I've had good success with the Formica 160 AND I was able to find it at Lowe's today. Home Depot now only carries WilsonArt, at least in the two stores I went to in CT.

3. 
   jeffvermont | Apr 18, 2003 04:59am | #8

   Sam:

   I am in Ct too and I have the occasion to make counters with some frequency.  for about a year now I have been using spray contact adhesive that I get from Cabinet Hardware Specialities in West Hartford.  Does't smell and dries almost instantaneously.  I love the stuff and is only slightly more expensive than the crap you roll on.  If you need the Brand Name email me back.  You'll never go back.  It is a nice step between the roll on contact cement and the big spray systems that cost $$$.

   Cheers,

   Jeff

   The reason so few people are successful is that so far no one has figured a way to sit down and slide uphill.
1. 
   larryscabnuts | Apr 18, 2003 09:07am | #9

   I use spray grade Wilsonart flamable cantact adhesive and have found it the best. I do apply it with a roller or brush however. I have found water base to be too slow drying for me. I buy about 25 gallons a year. (5 gallon bucket)

2. 
   steve | Apr 18, 2003 05:08pm | #10

   i use about 20 gallons a year of lepages latex contact cement, usually find one gallon does two typical kitchen tops but drying time is slow even with heat added(my shop is usually at 65 for laminating)

   any idea on cost of the stuff you use?

   and what is it?

   thanks

4. 
   jeffwoodwork | May 23, 2006 02:02am | #13

   I think what chuck is asking is if the waterbased glue is compatible with the solvent based glue.  I would say no, but I am not certain on that I would think the two would have different flash points and you may run into some trouble.

   As to the question about laminate lifting you can use a heat gun or a regular household iron set to medium place a towel on the lam and heat.  Sometimes you can get the glue to get sticky and reseal but be careful as the lighter colored laminates can discolor if the heat is too high.  Be sure to heat up a path to an edge and roll out any air bubbles.

   Jeff

1. 
   Robogabs | May 24, 2006 06:56pm | #14

   Thanks, Jeff.

   I haven't started yet because I don't have a heat gun. I was wondering if an iron would work!