Contain unfaced fiberglass on ceiling
I wish to protect children playing in the basement from the exposed unfaced fiberglass insulation between the joists on the basement ceiling.
I know I should use drywall but that project is down the road. Some say to simply staple polyethylene plastic sheet, others (such as the Taunton Book “Insulate and Weatherize”) warn that would put a vapor barrier on the wrong side (assuming basement is cooler and moisture comes from first floor?) so I should use perforated housewrap instead.
My question is whether readers have additional thoughts and whether Tyvek is permeable enough. (FYI in my case I have a cement floor, cinder-block walls, and no particular moisture issues, and the basement tends to be cooler than the first floor). Thanks
Edited 8/15/2009 4:32 pm ET by epauciflora
Edited 8/15/2009 4:33 pm ET by epauciflora
Replies
"warn that would put a vapor barrier on the wrong size so I should use perforated housewrap instead. "
On the wrong side of "what". Or put another way what determines the right and wrong side?
In a conditioned basement to conditioned 1st floor you don't have the strong temp and humidity difference that you have between inside and outside.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Don't they still sell the FG insulation that comes in like a polyethylene bag (sort of red in color)? Seems like that would work--is supposed to keep you from itching when you install it.
Are you sure protection is really needed? Unless the FG is incredibly dirty, or falling out of the joist bays, there's probably little danger to anyone beneath it.
Exposed FG insulation isn't pretty, but it really isn't dangerous.
Not sure I agree, although your point is well taken, I'd think that fiberglass would generally become airborne for a variety of reasons (including air movement and/or physical damage from e.g. a ball hitting it. I wouldn't want my children playing in such an area on the idea that theoretically, there shouldn't be any airborne fiberglass.
This is one of those philosphical debates that can be fun, but are rather pointless. I'm betting that the levels of other "crud" in a basement would be orders of magnitude higher than airborne FG particles. - lol
I tend to agree w/ Bill - poly SHOULD be OK due to the much lower temp difference. You could verify this by checking the dew point temp at the poly surface vs the RH in the house.
Safest would be the Tyvek on the bottom of the joists. No issues or worries ... but it does cost a lot more.
If you really want to be concerned about things I would be more concerned about off gassing by carpets, particle boards and glues that make up a large portion of today's homes. Long term exposure to fiberglass fibers can be quite damaging to one's health. Fiberglass insulation has been used in homes for at least 50 years now. Has anyone ever heard of a homeowner developing health problems from fiberglass insulation used in normal applicatons and not as a result of mold?
As a parent of two children I am much more concerned about the influence of Tv and the public school system than I am about a few irrational health issues. (sorry for the rant)
That's why no TV, and no public school here - kids 11, 8, and 5, and yes, Montessori is damned expensive, but I went to these same public schools, and DW went to a dozen as a military brat, so I can b!tch.
Forrest
The poly wouldn't create a harmful "vapor barrier" situation, since the temperature differential isn't enough to have this problem.
Tyvek or another housewrap would also work. (And, for the record, while Tyvek will burn, it does not support flames, and is at least as safe as poly for such an application.) (Also, for the record, Tyvek is at least as moisture-permeable as other housewraps.)
You could just use drywall without taping it. Just screw it on. That way SOMETHING is there, it's cheap, and if you don't need to change anything you can just leave it there an do the taping and mudding.
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
Or just a plain old roll of craft paper stapled over it will work. I buy it at a picture framing supply house in 2',3', or 4' rolls. It should be available just about anywhere that sells wrapping paper.
A t-50 or SurShot stable gun and a old broom handle would get it cover in no time.
Interesting suggestion to use kraft paper - thanks.
I see that it is available with flame retardant, for example
http://www.pacon.com/paper_products/artKraft_rolls/flame-rtd-paper.php