FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

contemporary door jambs

mb66 | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 28, 2005 05:53am

i need to install interior doors without any casing, where the drywall wraps around the corner of the door opening and butts into the jamb.

does anyone have any experience with this. i believe the width of the jamb should be as small as possible, which is the thickness of the door plus the thickness of the stop.

i assume that without casing to help anchor the jamb into the framing, i should shim and nail the jamb more frequently than normal, especially on the hinge side.

thanks for any tips.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. calvin | Sep 28, 2005 06:16pm | #1

    mb,  Remember when you set the jamb to leave enough room by the barrel of the jamb for your returns.  And maybe figure a long strike for the latch side so the latch doesn't booger up the return.

    Another potential problem, the door will only open "so far" when you recess the jamb into the opening, if that's what you are intending on doing.

    Find Tear-away "L" bead for the returns so you have a nice crisp mud line.

    Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

    Quittin' Time

    1. Snort | Sep 29, 2005 02:01am | #4

      hey cal, have you done this? What I'm visualizing doesn't look cool at all. Plus, like someone mentioned, that hinge jamb is gonna move...what about PLing it (adhesive) along with the screws?And what about a good pizzed off slam?<G> "what's in a name?" d'oh!

      1. calvin | Sep 29, 2005 03:49am | #7

        Holly, have done a variation on the theme.

        Designers are alway right.

        P.I.A.

        And then some.

        The rabbit with it dying behind the jamb, like when you stuff sheetrock in a commercial preset drywall frame.  Now that's not hard and probably stands the best chance of no call back.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

        Quittin' Time

        1. Snort | Sep 29, 2005 01:57pm | #11

          The rabbit with it dying behind the jamb, like when you stuff sheetrock in a commercial preset drywall frame. Now that's not hard and probably stands the best chance of no call back.Yep, did that once in a stock brokerage house. Out of cherry, it did look nice.Hey, you get those pics yet? "what's in a name?" d'oh!

          1. calvin | Sep 29, 2005 02:04pm | #12

            Yes, we got them ystdy.  Thank you!  Sorry I didn't let you know.

            Sort of caught up in the end of the regular season.

            And finally, 3 pars in a wed nite 9.  Jeez, what happened to summer.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

          2. Snort | Sep 29, 2005 02:10pm | #13

            all right, now show Jim how to look at them<G>3 pars? Doode, when are you going pro? "what's in a name?" d'oh!

          3. calvin | Sep 29, 2005 02:21pm | #14

            Blodgett? 

            OK Jim, stick the disc on the drink holder (remove the drink).  Close drink holder.  Some swirling thing appears on the screen.  Soon, a file opens.  Open that file.  Wah Lah, pics.

            Did I mention the 2 sevens...............Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

          4. Snort | Sep 30, 2005 03:09am | #15

            Did I mention the 2 sevens...............all right, competition...it's those danged snowmen that kill me<G> "what's in a name?" d'oh!

          5. calvin | Sep 30, 2005 01:11pm | #18

            Luckily no flurries that round.

            Sorry to the original poster for this diversion, best of luck on your project.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

            Quittin' Time

  2. stinger | Sep 28, 2005 10:47pm | #2

    I've visited homes under construction in Phoenix, where this technique of wrapping jambs with wall finish and dying into the doorframe is done.

    Special doorframe stock is used, maybe 1-1/4 thick, and the face is rabbeted to receive the finish.

    The houses I saw it in were high end, and the doors all 1-3/4 thick.  Frankly, I don't see how you could do it even with 1-3/8 doors, without framing interior walls in 2x6s.

    1. ms | Sep 29, 2005 03:27am | #5

      You are correct, sir. In Phx there are two methods. One has the drywall extending fairly close to the jamb and the corner bead goes between the jamp and drywall. A more popular method is to have all windows and doors jambs kerfed with a 1/4" router bit. The corner bead then extends from the drywall to inside the kerf. It is easiest to have the kerf cut before the installation of the window or door.
      Mark

      1. DougU | Sep 29, 2005 03:40am | #6

        I worked in a house that had the full jamb with the sheetrock meeting it with a simple dado.

        Picture attached

        Doug

        1. mb66 | Sep 29, 2005 04:02am | #8

          Stinger,i'm in Phoenix too and have seen completed homes with this detail. when you say there is a thick casing with a rabbit, do you mean that a thin
          strip of drywall is placed in the rabbit and then topped with corner bead?the other method i think has been discussed is where a kerf is cut into the edge of the jamb and the cornerbead is inserted into the kerf.since this detail (at least one or the other) is used in some production homes in the valley, there must be a millwork supplier that provides the stuff.

  3. mbdyer | Sep 29, 2005 12:40am | #3

    Beat the jacks as plumb as possible.  If the shim space is more than a quarter, tack in a strip of quater ply.  Shim the jamb true, tack with nails and then follow with trim screws.  Make sure the hinges and strike are fully shimmed without space behind.  Run at least one three inch hinge screw in each hinge, more is better.  Opening and closing will twist the jamb cracking it from the drywall so you want to minimize its movement.  Zip-bead makes a clean joint, caulk the bead well to give it flex b/w rock and wood.

  4. cliffy | Sep 29, 2005 04:38am | #9

    I did a door in the house I'm building now this way.  I Srewed metal j track  (in the drywall corner bead section.  Then i slipped the  half inch drywall in and the taper muded to the steel.  Worked well.

    Shims and nails are cheap don't be shy.

    Have a good day

    Cliffy

  5. BillBrennen | Sep 29, 2005 07:24am | #10

    mb66,

    Here in San Diego, the drywall houses sell special bullnose corner bead that is asymmetrical. One side has the normal nailing flange, the other flange is shorter and intended for insertion in kerfed jambs. Your jambs are the same width as your studs. (1x4 D pine for 2x4 walls with 5/8" drywall.) I kerfed my jambs with a 7-1/4" Marathon blade in the tablesaw, to get the thin kerf. A slotting cutter in the router table would be even easier.

    After the rock was up, I caulked the kerfs with Big Stretch white acrylic caulk, set the bead, stapled into position on the wall, and sponged the excess caulk away. This detail helps support the jamb just like casing does when properly nailed off. Using 4" hinges on 1-3/8" doors gets the barrels far enough out.

    This detail was used in the 1930's, and I copied it from a very nice local home because I like the clean look. The modern corner bead with caulk makes a stronger detail than what the old plaster guys did. No cracking after 2+ years, and the jambs were centered in the RO's. Shims at hinges and single 3" screws are a good choice; all the hinge screws can catch a stud, if needed!

    Bill

    1. mb66 | Sep 30, 2005 03:54am | #16

      Bill,this sounds like my solution. i need square cornerbead; i hope i can find it (an asymetrical version). what is the size of the "short" leg, probably about 3/4". also, where do you place the kerf? (how far from the edge of the jamb stock). i suppose you wouldn't want any radius on the jamb either.

      1. BillBrennen | Sep 30, 2005 09:16am | #17

        mb,I do not know if they make the kerf-insertable stuff in square. What you want is like ell-metal, with a short leg on the ell about 5/16" longer than the drywall thickness. You won't want to mud the return, only the part that planes out on the wall.The stuff I used had a short leg about 3/8" past the curve of the bullnose, and it had a hem, so was double thickness at that edge for better stiffness. I kerfed my jambs so that 3/8" thickness was showing after bead insertion. This gives plenty of room for hinges and strike plates, and matched the reveal on the stop molding I used. 1/8" radius maximum on jambs, for durability. Anything bigger will look wrong at the hinges and latch, and weaken hinges.If you roll your own solution, bear in mind that the outer hinge screws will likely interfere with the bead's inserted flange. Predrill. Too deep a kerf makes a weakened jamb edge. In any case, go to a big drywall house and ask about kerf-inserted bead. Good luck on the project.Bill

        Edited 9/30/2005 2:38 am ET by BillBrennen

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Choosing a Paintbrush

Tips for picking the right paintbrush based on paint type, surface, and personal comfort.

Featured Video

Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by Brick

Watch mason Mike Mehaffey construct a traditional-style fireplace that burns well and meets current building codes.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 695: Saving Bricks, Cut-and-Cobble Insulation, and Waterproofing Foundations
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Waterproofing Below-Grade Foundation Walls
  • Midcentury Home for a Modern Family
  • The New Old Colonial

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 333 - August/September 2025
    • A Practical Perfect Wall
    • Landscape Lighting Essentials
    • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data