Replies

1. 
   CloudHidden | Jun 28, 2005 12:17am | #1

   This should help...Visual Interpretation of Code...http://www.arcways.com/IRC2000a.pdf

2. 
   allenschell2 | Jun 28, 2005 12:18am | #2

   Bob, I use a 90 degree/ quarter turn on the inside, then a 45 degree miter on the outside giving you an "s" shaped rail. see crude pic...

3. 
   madmadscientist | Jun 28, 2005 01:05am | #3

   I looked at that very handy visual guide to the stair codes and have a question.

    It says that the handrail must be returned or end in 'safety terminals'.  What the heck is a safety terminal?

    thanks,

    

   Daniel Neuman

   Oakland CA

   Crazy Home Owner

4. 
   quicksilver | Jun 28, 2005 01:23am | #4

   You need to bring the rail from the rake angle to level, then with a 45-degree miter you can turn the 90-degree corner. Rails are notoriously difficult to get miters to seat correctly, especially rake miters. Try using some contact cement to hold the rail fast while you predrill the miter and fasten with a strong screw. An easy way to find the miter angle is to take the rise and run of the stair (Simply measure tread to tread and riser to riser, discounting the nosing overhang. It will probably be something like 7 1/2'' rise and 10'' run) and transfer it to a board. Do this by holding inch a half tongue of the framing square on the board letting the square cross the edge of the board at the rise measurement and the two inch tongue cross at the run measurement. The point of the square will be pointing to the other side of the board. Then mark out the triangle described on the board by the two tongues Take the seat cut (the longer one) and measure the angle with a speed square. Half of this angle will give you the proper cut. This technique is elementary for a lot of us but I just found out rather difficult to describe in words. Hopefully I got my point across or better yet I was wasting my breath. or finger power. Good luck.

1. 
   doodabug | Jun 28, 2005 02:47am | #5

   Old School meets New School, New School being the Speed Square. Want to clarify so you don't get mad at me. Hold the speed square on rail, hold level "level" on bottom of speed square. Read degrees on speed square. half is mitre??

1. 
   quicksilver | Jun 28, 2005 03:01am | #6

   We are allies now. What you're suggesting might work but here now I can't visualize it. You are saying hold the square 90-degrees to the rake and then level through from the point of the miter to show the angle on the speed square. Maybe. I feel humble today. I made a boo boo at work.

1. 
   doodabug | Jun 28, 2005 03:40am | #7

   Hold the level on the bottom of the speed square,when it reads level I think you can read the degrees off the speed square. Hold it on there like you are going to make a plumb cut. Or you could hold the level on plumb side or make a plumb mark on the rail then use the speed square to find the angle. Mitre would be somewhere close 20 degrees give or take I think.

   Edited 6/27/2005 8:48 pm ET by doodabug

5. 
   ponytl | Jun 28, 2005 06:21am | #8

   why i like steel... it bends

6. 
   RogerEverett | Jun 30, 2005 03:21pm | #9

   Bob:

    For going around a corner, you use a quarter turn fitting (90º), if it's an S turn they make S fittings or you cut to length, and put 2 quarter turns together, to make a ccustom sized S.

   As far as ending wall rail at top and bottom. Can use mitered returns as shown in the web site shown, or at bottom use a up easing and returned end, at top use a overeasing with a returned end ( these I prefer as it gives a better appearence).

   As far as making a pitch block that was mentioned, to layout for cuts on fittings. I don't use the measurments of the risr and run of the framing cutouts, since I haven't found a perfectly cut stringer yet. What I do , is lay a rail up the treads, figure the rake angle ( generally 36-40º) cut a pitch block, lay it on center of rail and refine it's angle with my SCMS and a torpedo level. Once I make a pitch block or 2 or 3 ( need a different one for each run of stairs ( like below and above a landing, They will be a little diff. angle), I cut all my fittings at the same time ( this saves time and I level my assembly table so with the pitch block and torpedo level, I can can double check the cut for accuracy). The instruction sheet that comes in the box with fittings shows how to make your cut marks , depending on whether it's a fittting comming down or going up.  HTH

   Roger

   P.S.  to get an idea of fittings available have you supplier give you a catalog or go to a stair products manufacturer's web site, there are many, many.One that  I know offhand is   www. coffmanstairs.com

1. 
   quicksilver | Jul 01, 2005 02:38am | #10

   Hey Roger. My folks live over in Lake Mary. I didn't think Bob was a carpenter in the pro sense so I tried to keep it simple. (No offense Bob) I worked for a master stair builder for a couple of years and he had an ingenious trick for cutting easings. Although I will not argue with the pitch block approach, it works too. Take a piece of 1X10 about a foot long. Attach a 3/4'' X 3/4'' stick onto the bottom of it, running cross grain at one end.. It will serve as a stop so that when you set the piece on the table of your chop saw it will hook on the left side of the table stopping any left to right sliding. Now hook it and chop off the 1X. Now take your speed square and using the right outer corner as pivot point mark out angle lines from 32 to 42 degrees. You will have a line for each degree. Now determine the radius of the easing and mark it from the same point with a trammel and jig saw it out. Take your easing and lay it against your newly cut curve and slide it towards the blade and cut the end square, Having determined the pitch of the stair by laying the rail on the nosings and using a protractor, just flip over the easing slide the square end to the angle line that matches the pitch and chop. A lot quicker than using the pitch block, if you have the jig on hand. I still use a pitch block when theres only one or two easings and don't have a jig, For a bunch of cuts or for someone organized enough to old onto it, this jig is a time saver. Last couple of years I've been working building nice condo's it the city. Steel rails are all the rage. I miss running wood railing, even though since my experience with the master the task came up infrequently, and now doesn't seem to come up at all. Hence I couldn't remember the radius of the easing. I think 9''.

1. 
   RogerEverett | Jul 01, 2005 03:13pm | #11

   Quicksilver:

   Odd you should mention Lake Mary, I'm on my way up there this morning, giant tool store ( and good discount prices), and I'm going to pick up a 23 ga. pinner, that will shoot a half day.

   I've tried other ways to mark and cut fittings, but I find with a pitch block, I dial it in to within 1/8 degree, and as I mentioned with a leveled table I can use it to verify my cut. And I cut them all at once , before I set my posts. Several way to skin a cat, just find the way that works for you, with out getting scratched.

   Roger