Contractor installed tub without bedding mortar and missed the tile bead kit. Is this new technology?
This is a new one to me. Paid a GC to do a complete remodel of a 2nd floor bathroom. Came with recommendations from a neighbor who did a big job and from our architect.
An American Standard bathtub (acrylic Deep Soak, non-jetted tub) was installed incorrectly in an alcove surrounded on 3 sides by tile. Apparently this was done without reading the directions. The tub was supposed to set into a bedding material like mortar A tile bead kit (ordered, picked-up by contractor) was to be applied on the edge of the tub to allow alcove installation with tile on 3 sides. This is a gasket material which is cemented to the edge of the tub in the walls to make a little lip to retain any water that might get behind the tile. Manufacturers use these methods instead of a integrated tile flange so they can sell one tub that can be installed in multiple situations (deck, alcove, etc).
Water promptly leaked between the tub edge and the tile, requiring removal of the ceiling sheetrock over half of the underlying room and adjoining hallway. Some mortar material was injected from below. The bottom of the tub now seems pretty solid. We’re at least 2 months beyond projected timeline for completion and waiting for another edging strip (lost?) and more tile to see if retrofit of the tile edging strip will solve the problem.
I never got a clear answer whether he or his sub installed the tub. The plumbing supply company was really surprised. They say that these methods have been standard for >10 years and are used for many Kohler and American Standard tubs, and other less common brands.
Install instructions if helpful http://www.americanstandard-us.com/assets/documents/amstd/install/Install_2086.pdf
My questions:
1. Is this tile bead kit new technology? Is there any reason someone in the trades wouldn’t come across them frequently? I would read directions before installing a $2000 tub.
2. I’ve insisted that he not grout the seam between last tile course and tub, and instead use a sealant. He says they put in grout, and when it cracks they put sealant over it. This strikes me as crazy. Grout is likely to crack given the differences in materials. Once it cracks, then one will never get much sealant in that space. When I’ve done this in my past I used to put thin foam materia in that space to keep grout out of that space. He’d never heard of this. Who’s right?
Thanks in advance. I’ve gotten great advice over the years from this forum.
Replies
I won't warranty a tub without a flange, beading strip or no beading strip.....I personally think they are useless in the long term.
The manufacturers detail with tile and an airspace behind it is garbage too, imo. the grout won't last long term without backing to bond too as well..
Raise the tile 3/16" or so off the tub, cement board behind it all the way to the bottom of the tile, caulk the gap...done.
Tile flange is not new technology.
I ask for a flange if in fact there is no integral lip.
When tile is set and b/4 grouting, I NEATLY caulk around the base and up both corners with color matched to grout caulk. When dry I then grout as usual up the corners and around the base. B/4 final cleanup I'll take a plastic putty knife and cut any protruding grout away from the face of the tile at the corners and the base. When grout is dry, I'll take the same color matched caulk and very neatly (with tape or not) caulk that tub and corner joint (s). This method gives me a nice looking job that doesn't crack out over time. Of course, there should be serious weight (close to occupant and water), in that tub when caulking it in.
B/4 cement board the water membrane should be run down over that tile flange, even as minimal as that flange may be. Doesn't hurt to bed that in caulk at the tub flange either.
That it soaked such a large ceiling area suggests to me a bigger problem than just no flange............