Replies

1. 
   Jock | Jul 18, 2004 07:02am | #1

   The code was changed to 4" for a reason(children, grandchildren), what about using 1/4-5/16 aluminum stock, square or round let into wooden horizontals, the top horizontal supporting the trex rail? The alum. doesn't rust, and if view is a factor, is rather unobtrusive?

1. 
   Bruce | Jul 18, 2004 04:40pm | #4

   I fully understand the reasoning behind the code change, and though I could go with 6", will likely go to a smaller spacing, though maybe not all the way down to 4".

   I'm unclear about what kind or shape of aluminum stock you're talking about ...

   "... what about using 1/4-5/16 aluminum stock, square or round... " 

   As to using the Trex components, I agree that they look fine on some projects, but I don't think they're appropriate here.  They look heavy, they are heavy, and they carry a very heavy sticker price.

   I've thought about using 3/4" copper pipe for balusters in a wood framework, with the Trex cap.  Seen it done before, and it's a pretty nice look, I think.

   The High Desert Group LLC

1. 
   Shoeman | Jul 20, 2004 04:04pm | #14

   I've done the 3/4" copper on a few applications now, and the clients really like it.  7/8" forstner bit works well for the holes.  I also drill a 1/4" bit all the way through on the bottom rail so it can drain.

   Edited 7/20/2004 9:06 am ET by Shoeman

1. 
   Shoeman | Jul 20, 2004 06:43pm | #17

   trying to post a resized pic of a copper rail deck - this deck is about a year old

   Edited 7/20/2004 7:01 pm ET by Shoeman

1. 
   Shoeman | Jul 21, 2004 02:03am | #18

   re-read the Irfanview thread over in the photo gallery - see if I can get this thing right this time - not a great picture or anything - just has become a personal challenge to get the thing to post properly

2. 
   jimblodgett | Jul 21, 2004 06:26am | #20

   Copper sounds great.  You could even solder some designs into the railing here and there if you wanted to using standard fittings.  But didn't I just read 3/4" copper is about a dollar/ft?  Don't buy enough to know right off the top of my head, but that doesn't seem like an inexpensive balluster to me.

3. 
   ProDek | Jul 21, 2004 07:31am | #21

   The last Dekorator rail I built cost the customer $45. per linial foot. A clear cedar rail is $25. per ft."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

4. 
   jimblodgett | Jul 21, 2004 02:12pm | #22

   "$45.00/ft"? Yikes.

5. 
   Shoeman | Jul 21, 2004 04:09pm | #24

   No not exactly cheap about .79 per foot in Minneapolis right now

   First time I used it was a few years back on a guardrail around a stairwell in a house

   Friends of that client saw it and wanted it on thier deck

   A friend has now done some work making arbors and decorative fence accents with the fitings as you mentioned - I proposed doing some interesting designs in the large openings where the homeowner has the plants hanging in the picture I posted, but, of course budget wouldn't allow it

   I like that it makes a rail system that doesn't block your view too much and people seem to like the patina it takes on - I have seen the painted aluminum ones fade and turn a little white in less than a year in locations with heavy sun exposure - those people not so happy

6. 
   raybrowne | Jul 22, 2004 06:54am | #25

   I would recommend giving the copper pipe a try, it has a nice look to it. Search back for the previous thread regarding copper pipe railing, it mentions how to remove the blue lettering and a hint for maintenance.

   -Ray

7. 
   Shoeman | Jul 22, 2004 03:45pm | #26

   the print on the pipe comes off real easy with a quick wipe with a rag soaked with laquer thinner

8. 
   Linda H. | Jul 12, 2011 12:25am | #27

   removing print on copper pipe

   I just put in copper pipe deck rail. I used isopropyl alcohol or also called  rubbing alcohol you get at the store. Works great!

2. 
   mikeys | Jul 18, 2004 08:20am | #2

   I have a stair rail with 6" spaces. Three weeks ago my wife found my 1 1/2 year old granddaughter had slipped through the gap and was standing on the window sill 8' above the floor. I added 1"x4"s to each space. Whatever design you do please follow 4" sphere rule.

   Smile. It could be worse. You could be me working for you.

3. 
   Shavey | Jul 18, 2004 03:22pm | #3

   I guess you have`nt been to trex`s web site to see how to build  a handrail using trex. Trex handrail parts and components are beautiful when installed and they even have hidden fastener systems and  trex 4ft  posts....

4. 
   florida | Jul 18, 2004 04:50pm | #5

   You could do th ecable rail yourself for a very reasonable price. I did my first rail, all stainless of course, with wire and turnbuckles from West Marine. The next one I did I found the wire and nicer turnbuckles online for a much nicer price. I used white aluminum 1" X 3" for the top rails and 1" X 2" for the standards. I figured out a way to blind fasten everything together so that it looked very clean and neat and my customer was very pleased. It is fussy work that requires a lot of forethought to make sure that all the cable holes line up exactly but the end result is well worth it. Very clean look and unparalled views.

1. 
   Bruce | Jul 19, 2004 05:48am | #7

   Been considering doing cable myself, and still might.  I like the industrial tech look, and galvanized fittings from the lumber yard/hardware store are pennies next to any marine fittings or commercial cable rail fittings, Feeney included.  If you do the fittings and turnbuckles very uniformly, anything will look great from 10 feet.

   The glass panel idea is nice, but also mega-$$$ unless you have access to freebies or used stuff.  Not really an option here. 

   I also like the idea of the aluminum components, but when you live in a small town in the middle of nowhere, everything is special ordered, and then you wait.  Also not good options right now.

   But great suggestions, all!The High Desert Group LLC

5. 
   gdavis62 | Jul 18, 2004 04:51pm | #6

   Have you costed out wood posts and top rails, but then SS cable rail from Feeney?

   I saw an article once about a guy who did his deck railing using "scrap" glass panels.  It seems he had a source for the unbroken tempered glass panels that came out of old patio doors, and did a post and top rail arrangement with the glass glazed in.

   Here's mine.

1. 
   kostello | Jul 19, 2004 10:31pm | #8

   how about using old car windscreens?????!!!!!!

   V. cheap i bet

6. 
   Paularado | Jul 20, 2004 12:24am | #9

   Hi Bruce,

   We used aluminum from Deckorators on our log home. They went together easily, but We used a drill press to drill the holes, which seemed to make the whole thing go smoother. They really came out nice. Many people who have come over since we installed them comment on how much they like them.

   Anyway, they are something different from the same-old log railings they many people use on log homes. These at 4" spacing are nice AND they are to current code. We plan to do the same thing on the inside, only use 4" logs for the top and bottom railing. For now, we threw some framing lumber together with the aluminum ballusters just to get our CO. Perhaps you could do something quick and dirty as well just to get through the process and do what you really want later.

   Paula

   
   

   ---

   Edited 7/19/2004 5:27 pm ET by Paula

1. 
   Shoeman | Jul 20, 2004 02:03am | #10

   How long have you had the Deckorators installed?

   Was curious about fading.  All the ones I have seen faded within the first year.

1. 
   Shoeman | Jul 20, 2004 02:05am | #11

   I thought the new code would not horizontal rail components that could be used as a ladder.

   Anyone know more about this?  Would that mean that cable rail would not meet code?

1. 
   bobtim | Jul 21, 2004 06:05am | #19

   2000 IRC won't allow "ladder style" guard rails. But oddly the 2003 IRC is silent on the issue.

1. 
   Shoeman | Jul 21, 2004 03:58pm | #23

   Thanks for the clarification - thought I remembered something about that

   looks like I should get the 2003 book

2. 
   Paularado | Jul 20, 2004 04:31pm | #15

   Yikes! Fade in the first year? These have been on since December. If they are going to fade, they'll fade at my house with our intense sunshine, so I guess we'll see! I think they have some kind of warranty associated with them.....I wonder if it means anything.

   Paula

7. 
   fartherhome | Jul 20, 2004 04:58am | #12

   Just did a nice railing with 5/4 x6 ipe top rail. top rail goes over 4x4 posts in the middle of the run and dies into 6x6 @ the corners .the 6x6 are capped. sub rail and bottom rail are cedar.The sub rail is on the flat under the ipe. ballisters are black deckorators with 3 .5' gap.

1. 
   Bruce | Jul 20, 2004 06:03am | #13

   Sounds like a good looker.  I'm thinking I'll go with the rust color Deckorator balusters; color is good for this house.  Already have the Trex 1x6 for the cap (Trex "Saddle" color matches stucco), and 2x4 top and bottom rails.  I'd like to lay the sub rail flat on this one, but with Trex as a cap, I'm afraid the whole deal will start to sag.  And with the sub rail upright, the Trex will be overhangining 2" each side.

     Deck surface will be sage green to contrat with house and railing system.  This should be a few bucks less than the $55 a foot quoted me by a local welding outfit for steel structure and cable rail.

   The High Desert Group LLC

   Edited 7/19/2004 11:15 pm ET by Bruce Williams

8. 
   ripmeister | Jul 20, 2004 04:53pm | #16

   I  like shoemans idea.  With the adobe I think copper pipe would look excellent especially as it takes on its patina.