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Discussion Forum

Coping I/S 22-1/2 Degree Corners?

basswood | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 25, 2005 04:47am

I am wondering if you go to the trouble of coping inside 45 degree corners (22-1/2 degree miter) for crown. If my angle finder tells me they are really 45 degrees I have just been mitering these corners. Coping these requires removing lots more material from the backside of the molding and is more trial and error in the fitting phase (or am I missing something). I have been doing more and more of these (mostly crown on kitchen wall cabinets with 45 degree corner wall cabinets).

I have an entertainment center to do where people will spend countless hours staring in the general direction of my molding joints so I don’t want miters to open up as things dry and shrink.

Any advice will be appreciated.


Edited 3/25/2005 9:48 am ET by basswood

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Replies

  1. User avater
    Sphere | Mar 25, 2005 05:15pm | #1

    I have always mitered them on work like that, just make sure the wood is dry, use a biscuit if yer so inclined. Glue and brads/fin nails always worked for me.

     

     

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

    1. User avater
      basswood | Mar 25, 2005 10:33pm | #4

      I've never tried biscuits on crown, how do you do that?

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Mar 26, 2005 12:07am | #5

        I don't employ that too often. What I have done in the past, was register off the cut face with my Biscuit joiner upside down. I do that for any angle with the standard 90* fence.

        Obviously it depends on the profile and available thickness at it's thinnest area, and whether or not a #zero biscuit will fit.

        Works well with larger mouldings and outside corners in stain grade work to avoid haveing nail holes near the finished miter, or worse...one of them nails that decides to "exit ..stage left" out the other side of the miter.  Not that that has ever happened to me {G}.

        Also, rather than depend on the pins on the Joiner to engage the wood, I use some self stick sandy paper glued above and below the slot where the blade exits the housing for added traction, and to save fingers. 

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

  2. User avater
    jonblakemore | Mar 25, 2005 08:47pm | #2

    I'm with Sphere. If your wood is dry and kept controlled (get a finish on ASAP) a miter would be fine.

    I think a miter technically looks better anyways and since the unit appears to be stand-alone you should be able to achieve perfect joints.

     

    Jon Blakemore

    1. User avater
      basswood | Mar 25, 2005 10:31pm | #3

      The unit will be built-in, assembled from a bunch of semi-custom cabinets.The crown will come prefinished with the cabinets. But the last prefinished crown I used from this company shrank enough to open up scarf joints on long runs as it dried out. At least in this case there will be no scarf joints and the longest run is 54". So a nice fitting and well glued miter will probably be fine. I just get nervous when I know how much attention these miters could see. I worked for a builder who had me sit on the toilets in custom homes he built to get the crapper eye view of things--since some people spent a lot of time there--with out much to do except look around. At least with an entertainment center there will usually be something else to look at. I'll make things fit well on this one and hope they don't open up later.

      Edited 3/25/2005 3:42 pm ET by basswood

  3. User avater
    JeffBuck | Mar 26, 2005 08:50am | #6

    just miter.

    no sense in coping ...

    and if U can reach over the top ... U can drill "straight thru"(8th in bit) and drive a drywall screw thru both side to lock her down tight.

    Jeff

      Buck Construction 

       Artistry in Carpentry

            Pgh, PA

    1. User avater
      basswood | Mar 26, 2005 04:07pm | #7

      I really like the idea of screws from behind. I will use that tip--sometime. In this case the crown goes right to the ceiling so I only have 3" above the cabinets (maybe it's time to get a tiny cordless rt. angle screwdriver).

      1. User avater
        jonblakemore | Mar 26, 2005 04:11pm | #8

        Could you pre-assemble? 

        Jon Blakemore

        1. User avater
          basswood | Mar 26, 2005 04:34pm | #9

          I thought about that; to some extent, I can. The two ends are like tall pantry cabinets, the center is built up from five cabinets and two tall end panels. Most of the work on this is really being done at the cabinet shop. My part is like stacking childrens play blocks (nice and tight) and scribing and trimming it in. It butts into a rough brick fireplace on the left side. Scribing that in will be half the job.

  4. User avater
    slimjim | Mar 28, 2005 01:47pm | #10

     

    Basswood, this stuff rocks for prefinished molding. Spooge one side and aerosol the other, bring toghether, hold for a couple secs, done. Nails are sort of a joke with this stuff. You can preassemble large runs of crown this way if you're ballsy.

    View Image
    Adhesives - Specialty

    INNOVATIVE 2P-10 ADHESIVE SYSTEM BONDS WOOD IN 10 SECONDS, CURES IN 30 SECONDS

    2p10 Kit ...plus other(s)

    Using the two part FastCap™ 2P-10 Adhesive System Kit, you can quickly and easily glue the most difficult cabinetry or other woodworking joints without clamping:

  5. Just apply the glue, spray on the activator and stick together for a strong permanent 4,000 psi bond.
  6. 136-415 - 2P-10 Kit includes Jël, Thick and Medium adhesives for bonding different surfaces (1 oz., each), two 2 oz. containers of Activator for faster bonds and one 2 oz. bottle of Debonder for removing glue residue.
  7. Kit also comes with pump sprayers, hard shell carrying case and instructions.
  8. Product refills available.
  9. 136-436 - Activator available in convenient 12 oz. aerosol cans.
  10. 136-439 - Optional Micro-Tips are used to lay down micro fine beads of glue - great for filling cracks
    1. woodguy99 | Mar 28, 2005 01:54pm | #11

      That stuff is amazing!  I got a bottle last year at JLC, used it for lots of stuff, including prefabbing pre-finished cherry crown molding 22.5 joints.  Gary Katz recommended it, and he was right.

       

      Mike

    2. User avater
      Sphere | Mar 28, 2005 02:39pm | #12

      LMAO...I havn't heard spooge since I left NC ...daily term working down there.. 

      Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

      "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

      1. User avater
        slimjim | Mar 29, 2005 01:56am | #16

        Well, I was raised in Durham....what do yall expect?

        1. User avater
          Sphere | Mar 29, 2005 02:00am | #17

          spent about 8 yrs, in and around..Macon, Jackson and Swain.

          Didn't get out east too much, I stuck in the mountains. 

          Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

          "Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi

          1. User avater
            slimjim | Mar 29, 2005 02:24am | #18

            Spent a couple teenage years in Sylva/Cullowhee too!

    3. User avater
      basswood | Mar 28, 2005 03:10pm | #13

      That FastCap adhesive sounds like a winner.Does it come with a spoogenator.

      1. woodguy99 | Mar 28, 2005 03:16pm | #14

        By spoogenator, do you mean activator or de-activator?  Or neither?  'Cause you can get it with activator, de-activator, or neither.

         

        Mike

        1. User avater
          basswood | Mar 28, 2005 03:19pm | #15

          I was just kidding. This was turning into a "Spooge" thread and I wanted to remain a part of it.

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