I just installed my first tin ceiling and after coping the inside corners, I was wondering if there is a more simple, straightforward method. I relied on fit and trim, fit and trim, fit and trim…….
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<<fit and trim, fit and trim, fit and trim>>
Ok you all knew it was coming but, isn't that Nutri Systems motto?
Sorry,.... I just couldn't pass that by.
I noticed a ways back that Home Depot carries tin ceilings.
I got up close to it the other day and picked up a square.
It was some kind of plastic...geeezzzzzz.
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign there
And that sign said - no tress passin'
But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!
Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Yeah, I saw those the other day too. Yuck.
THe place I used is right here in Cleveland and they make all panels to order. I believe you can even have custom designs done too... in many metals such as polished aluminum (the ones I installed), copper, steel, etc.
I wasn't too bad to work with but gets tiring all day working overhead. I've about 7 hours into that ceiling including a plywood overlay on the original plaster & lath ceiling that was existing.
I also worked off a little 3' laddr because of the confined space but next time I'll use the 6' because all day of balancing and reaching made every inch of my body ache.
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
How much was each panel Pete?
"As I was walkin' - I saw a sign thereAnd that sign said - no tress passin'But on the other side .... it didn't say nothin!Now that side was made for you and me!" Woody Guthrie 1956
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Pete,
That looks good. Outwater carries tin ceiling as well.
What guage did you use?
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
not sure on guage... fairly thick though
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
I think the panel's were about 16 bucks each (2' X 2')
go here and check out the products and prices.... http://www.mbossinc.com
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
can't add anything other than saying between a 3' ladder and a 6 ' ...
I've grown to love my 4 ft'er!
soon to add another 1 or 3 ...
seriously ... if U don't have a 4 ft ladder ... buy one tomorrow ... trust me.
interior work ... crown and such .... 4 ft'er. Or two.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
Jeff
Your right on about the 4 footer, that and a 2 footer is all I carry in my truck - so damn handy.
If I need something taller someone else can bring it.
Doug
doug, your 2'-is it a two sided model. They make a great platform with the dbl step (flush on this, not on some models) and you don't break your neck walking off (blindly) the other side. I skinned my shins one too many times and ordered one at my ladder/scaffold supply in a fit of rage. A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I almost bit it trying to exit the wrong side of my ladder... now that I think about it, it's probably a 2 footer. Don't know why I refered to it as a 3'.
Standing atop of it, balancing for the better part of 7 hours is no fun.
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
Yes, double sided for the 2'.
Going down the wrong side AND thinking your only one step up when your actually two, damn I think I do that once a week!
Doug
I worked with an electrician on a job and we both had our dbl 2's in the room. Well, you certainly don't have to be on yours, so you take the one close.
Did you know there's different rung ht. configurations among ladder companies-at least as the 2' goes...........
Tripped more times that day than I have in a year.
Love the wide standing platform two rungs make on the top. For my 5-9 ht, that's home for me.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
We do metal cornice , exterior, but one way to ensure ease, is to get one right and make a pattern out of it. Make a left and a right. Then when you are doing the real deal, scribe the pattern on the stock, but on ONE leg add a half inch or so xtra. That then gets snipped into ears or tabs that you then can bend to extend behind the face most visible from the ground or floor in your case.
This adds support behind the joint and eliminates any gap that can show . I'd not be afraid to hide a poprivet in an inconspicuous area of the detail.
Duane,
I was hoping you'd make it to this thread.
I did a pattern for the final corner only because I had to keep my pattern aligned and then cut in the miter.... so I couldn't lose length for adjusting my cut. The other corners I had flexibility in length.
The pattern idea would be ok except for that in this case, with the old walls and ceiling, nothing was quite square or plane so it would change from corner to corner.
I was really hoping you'd have some fantastic revelation of guarded coping secrets. i ran the back wall straight then coped angles over for the sides which butted flush into the forward wall then the forward wall was coped over both ends.
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
Pete, what we're doing is usually 20' away, so it doesn't have to be quite as precise as what you're doing. That being said, I've cut some nearly perfect miters with a miter saw and a non-ferrous metals blade (in copper). Don't know if there's a blade available for ferrous stuff.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
It's like the whole world's walking pretty and you can't find no room to move. - the Boss
I married my cousin in Arkansas - I married two more when I got to Utah. - the Gourds
Like Grant said, our stuff is way high and can be caulked or soldered, differnt methods. The only trick to using a miter saw is to have a sacrificial wood block inside the profile so it doesn't distort as the blade works it way through and don't get heat dis-coloration.
I know that stuff is pretty thin, I did one cieling a few yrs ago, just like that, I don't recall how I overcame the miters, probly just like you did, trim and fit.
I guess it might just be more an art than a method.
They do sell color matched caulk for it but that just doesn't feel right.
I know it looks fantasatic in the pics but if you look at it from the side perpendicular to the cope, then you can see the joint isn't perfect... however, that may well be a trait of such ceilings as even the cornice must be finger molded over the pattern in the ceiling for a good fit yet minor imperfections will exist if there is no caulk and paint.
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
>>>>>but if you look at it from the side perpendicular to the cope, then you can see the joint isn't perfect... however, that may well be a trait of such ceilingsSpoken like a carpenter. A carpentry joint is supposed to be invisible. Ametal joint is supposed to be visible, but clean.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
It's like the whole world's walking pretty and you can't find no room to move. - the Boss
I married my cousin in Arkansas - I married two more when I got to Utah. - the Gourds
Pete
Looks good, is it going to be painted?
I've read all the post here and wonder how you could possibly get the miters/copes any closer then just a nice clean line.
I've seen several tin ceilings and that's the way I'd describe any of the copes/miters - nice and clean. you wouldn't want to see a jagged edge and if you don't have that then hell ya done good!
Doug
It will stay as clear-coated aluminum
When you're this good, EVERYONE wants a crack at you!
http://www.petedraganic.com/
My trick is to use a template to get close, then scribe with a compass or pencil. Comes out perfect every time, once I figured it out.
I have bought from a.a. abbingon http://www.abbingdon.com/ who have a good selection of original patterns and ship all over.
Hope this helps. Rich