Coping with a Dremel Tool !!!!!!!!!!
rustythevibeguy
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I don’t know who had the idea here to cope with a Dremel tool, but it is absolutely brilliant! I had never coped a joint before in my life, and had a bunch to do on my baseboard. I rough cut them with a coping saw, and then used a Dremmel tool with a cutter to finish the cut. We had prepainted, so there was a perfect line to work to. Every cut was absolutely perfect and fit so tight there was practically no room to get any caulk in. Once I got the hang of it, it took about 2 minutes per cut.
This tip made the difference between “mediocre” work (at best) and craftsmanship. Thanks!!
Replies
What kind of bit did you use?
I think a I mentioned using a Dremel tool a couple of different times, but I just use the sanding drum to clean up or adjust a scribe line after coping with a saw. I'll have to try making the cope cut with one. How many bits you break?
I don't have the package the cutter came in -- it's just a cutter about 1/4" diameter x 1/4" high, nothing special (what they have on the rack at Wal-Mart). Didn't break any, but dulled one I think, doing 3 large bedrooms (I started in the closets to learn).
After coping (back cut), I'd just hold the piece in my left hand, good side up, and the Dremel in my right hand, with my right thumb braced against the piece -- kind of like paring an apple. You don't want to cut right on the line with the coping saw -- you have to leave it a little fat, or you'll grind too much off. After doing just a few, it really is possible to make a perfect cut. You're only taking off a little material, so it goes quickly. There just is no way you can cope as accurately on a detailed piece of molding.
If you make a habbit of this, you'll be wanting to get a couple of "carver's burrs" or "Kutzall burrs" (the Kutzall come in carbide) - a flame or cone works well with colonial, cylinder for victorian..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Thanks for the tip Phill.
Phill-
I would imagine that if one wanted a heavier duty tool you could use a Fordham flexible shaft or a die grinder.
Ken Hill
Foredom, make sure you get the 44T hand-piece.
I spent one student summer as a fitter, so I can use a die-grinder, but I'd never advise someone to learn to use one on their own (too much potential for dimensioning fingers). IMHO, between their high-torque and their router-like speed, a die-grinder is over the top for this job.
I see that at some of the development sites they've started using shapers to cut the coped ends. About 30 seconds each.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
is there a bit where you dont need the coping saw at all? Thats the hardest part especially on large crown moldings. Kinda dont get it. After I finish a cope (with the saw why the need to use a dremmel)?
I've done the same with the Dremel drum sander. The reason is that if you fail to back cut enough on your cope, you have to use a rasp or file to knock those areas down. The drum sander makes much quicker work of it.
Andy, maybe you are really, really good with a coping saw. But unless you are, on a detailed piece of molding, there is simply no way you are going to get as good a joint as with a Dremel. Maybe that's not critical on painted molding, but I would think with stained work it would matter.
Actually, the guy I was considering to do my trim said, "Oh, you're going to paint it? Good, I can just caulk all the joints." I didn't really want anyone doing sloppy work on my house so I decided to do it myself. I am NOT an experienced trim carpenter, and if I couldn't do a better job than he was going to do, why bother at all? Using the dremel to cope gets me over one of the biggest hurdles.
If you have a dremel, you really ought to try it. I really believe it's faster and better.