I’d like to use copper for the backsplash in my kitchen and was thinking that glueing would be simplest. The contact cement container says not to use it on copper — does anyone know why? Is there another glue that would work? Constuction or drywall adhesive? Are there copper screw or nails?
I was thinking of buying copper flashing rolls for this, it needs to be 16″high X 18ft long under the cabinets, with a section 25″high over the 30″ stove.
Mary Ellen
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Replies
when I glued on mirrors for a back bar..the glass shop supplied mastic for it..it was nothing more than roof cement. I am sure a bunch of guys here will say sillycone..and maybe a tile type mastic. what ever you do , you want a very thin bond line (thickness) so It doesn't "telegraph" thru to the finish face.
Yes there are copper nails, in a wide assortment of styles. I would be inclined to not use any nails so that the surface is smooth and easily wiped without snaggin a sponge.
I would use a roof cement witha small (1/8) notched trowel..on the wall only, and place the copper against and press with a cloth covered block of wood all over..apply some tape to hold it up till the cement sets a bit (overnite). That ought to work If it holds mirrors up, it ought to have no problem with thin copper.
The acetic acid in sillycone may etch eventually and discolor the face..same with whatever is in that contact cement..good luck.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
"The acetic acid in sillycone may etch eventually and discolor the face..same with whatever is in that contact cement..good luck."
BTW there is what is called "neutral cure" silicone that does not do that. used in the electronics industry.
thats neat..never heard of it. I am sold on lexel as everyone probably knows by now..Fantastic multi use stuff.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
How about copper tiles, or copper colored laminate (with or without the patina)?
Copper flashing is pretty thin and soft and will show all of the imperfections in the substrate. Most of the info I have seen shows the copper mounted to 1/4" plywood and the plywood mounted to the wall. One link I found on the DIY site used 2 part epoxy to bond the copper to a plywood substrate. I think you may want a heavy weight of copper and a harder temper. There are a couple of companies that make embossed copper (like the old tin ceilings) for back splashes.
Here are a couple of links. The first one sells a copper sample pack of different weights of copper
http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?id=155&step=2
Here are copper dome head nails
http://www.abbingdon.com/cartexe/shopdisplayproducts.asp?id=3&cat=Nails/Accessories
Here is a company that makes copper counter tops, hoods and backsplashes
http://www.brookswood.com/Copper/CoppercountertopFAQ.htm
thank you for the links -- the first one, onlinemetals is here in Seattle!
Mary Ellen
the first thing that comes to mind is that when it gets splashed you will get droplets of patina of varying degrees especially with grease from the stove, It will looks nice and shinny at first but that is going to change, If you don't mind continually cleaning it will look good. As for gluing it on you are going to need something very thing otherwise it will look lumpy or wavy, Try 3M77 spray contact adhesive I think it works on metal make sure the back is sanded and clean and your surface is clean and flat otherwise any imperfections will telegraph through.You can get copper nails and tacks of varying sizes if you want to go that way from most hardware store's.
Simon
i use to build bars (like the ones you go into and the ones you lean on) and i designed and built a few with a copper face... i always got the sheet copper 4' x 10ft not sure of the gauge... but i'd cut it to size and sprinkle it with several acids anything i could find that was an acid... (yes that too) covered it in plastic let it sit for a few days then washed it off... got many colors blues greens yellows browns... then waxed it with a bees wax ( i don't know why i used bees wax) but anyway it looked like artwork i attached it to a smooth prepared surface (usually hardboard) with a mastic that we used on commerial floors... at the time it was alot of "look" for not much $$$ i think i was pay'n $40 a sheet at the time... good luck i like the look... in these apts i'm building i was think'n of doing the same thing except us'n stainless steel...
pony
That sounds great!
btw, northwestcoast indians made a bluegreen dye for wool by soaking copper in urine.
Mary Ellen
After reading Archyii's post, I wonder if you could have a shop with a veneer press laminate the copper to a ¼" thick substrate so it won't telegraph the imperfections of the wall.
Theres a company called Chem metal making "metal"finish laminate which you can contacy glue to the wall. Call AMM in Philly 215 634 3100 for infomation.
I saw some of that -- $22sqft is more than I'm willing to pay. but it's very pretty and easy care...
Mary Ellen
I've made several copper counter tops (mostly for commercial kitchens). The way that I've done it is to wrap a wooden substrate ( in some cases the existing laminate countertop). The fastners are on the back of the backsplash or the bottom of the countertop.
Hi mary, that sounds very high! Double check with AMMC.
Flashing copper is very soft, so you'll have a very difficult time getting it flat. It also is not expected to be an interior finish, so it may get dinged in distribution. You might want to look into high pressure laminate with a metal surface. For instance, Formica shows 35 versions on their web site. The HPL will bridge wall irregularities, and the usual glues will work on the back. You'll also find several textures and colors, even within the copper family.
Mary ellen,
is it the old style VOC based contact cement? if so check out the new nonflammable stuff or vice a versa.
Mr T
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I did this in my kitchen and used contact cement with no problems. However, at some point I'll be replacing it. It is a maintenance nightmare. It tarnishes very quickly and unevenly and is a real pain to polish. There are a number of metalic laminates that might be more appropriate. The major laminate MFRs' all have lines.
Good luck
Much as I love copper as a roofing material, I think it's a mistake as a surface you can touch and have to clean. Some friends of mine had copper countertops and backsplashes, and found it impossible to keep them looking OK. Set an ordinary glass of ice water on a copper surface, and the condensation will make a permanent ring -- or a permanent smear if you try to wipe it up right away. They finally sold that house.
In the long run, you'd probably be much happier with a copper colored laminate than with real copper.
-- J.S.