Dale brought these pics in today. We’ve been working on this roof in between storms. It’s a converted horse barn. We tore off a cedar shingle roof, some of which I did (an addition) about 15 years ago for the previous owner.
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Prescriptive codes don't address the connection at less common angles, so base the connection off more typical ones using bolts, structural screws, blocking, and steel tension ties.
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http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
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Looks great!
Do you make your panels on the break, or do you have a roll form machine?
It's all brake formed.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
How is the ladder anchored to the roof?
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
Magnets.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Please post your Azek work........Pics
Edited 3/5/2009 8:08 pm ET by Pelipeth
I may, it's really no great shakes, just refacing some dormers that have bad wood now. About as plain as can be.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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How is the ladder anchored to the roof?
Ridge hooks or vice grips.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I like Grant! Do you use any copper from Reveve? I live about 15 miles from there headquarters in RomeNY
Do you use any copper from Reveve?
I think the lead coated copper we get is Revere. Most of it the shiney copper here is Hussey. I think that's due to shipping costs since the Hussey factory is closer.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant,
Great looking job !!
I'm glad you're starting to post picture threads again.
I'll differ with you on Revere though - I believe they only produce the Freedom Gray now. My supplier says they don't make lead coated any longer. The lead coated I get here is some mongrel brand - probably overseas made.
Walter
I'll differ with you on Revere though - I believe they only produce the Freedom Gray now. My supplier says they don't make lead coated any longer. The lead coated I get here is some mongrel brand - probably overseas made.
It's been a long time since I bought a full crate of LCC, but it was Revere. I've only bought a sheet or two at a time lately, so I haven't seen any packaging. For awhile, the shiny copper I was getting was from Italy. When I buy from ABC, they rebrand whatever it is they sell with their own packaging.
Have you used any freedom gray?http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant,
Yes I've used some - but it's priced really high.
My main supplier up here only carries Revere copper - Beacon Sales.
When I need LCC I have to deal with a Mass. based outfit -- Cambridge St. Metals.
I like the way Freedom Gray works and solders , but the cost difference is substantial. I'll have to ask what it goes for now - haven't priced it in over a year.
Walter
How would we ever do metal roofing without chicken ladder!?I have one that I glued some 1/2" wool carpet pad to for scratch prevention. Thought it would end up coming off, but after three years it is stil fine, not that I use it evry day...
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I have one that I glued some 1/2" wool carpet pad to for scratch prevention. Thought it would end up coming off, but after three years it is stil fine, not that I use it evry day...
Would some kind of rubber strip be better? Keep you from scratching the roof and maybe help the ladder stick to the roof better?
jt8
lotsa worse things happen to better people than me every day. --Snort
No one brought up what we do/did on the side of the roof that is yet to have the copper to clamp the vise grips to. If you can't get a ridge hook to work, due to length to the ridge or on a hip, we screw the ladder to the roof. A few pilot holes in the rail flange and a few Piffen screws..yer good to go. You have to screw the bottom screw, then with just it holding go up and add another. So your life hangs on one screw for short time
(They are actually deck screws but I wanted to see if Piff would get his feathers ruffled.)
I think Dale is about 220 and I'm 170 and with both of us and tools, we've been on the same ladder with two screws holding it down..the weight really is on the roof.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Ladder notwithstanding, you'll have to excuse me if I don't get in line to climb up there. I'm not that fond of clambering around regular shingles. That stuff looks slicker than snot. I would imagine there are times when you can't do what you need to do from the ladder.
But as far as finished appearance and performance... If I had the budget, I would be hard pressed to choose between Walter's slate or Grant's copper.
jt8
lotsa worse things happen to better people than me every day. --Snort
With the right shoes and walking duck toed, anything up to an 8/12 is not bad..get up over an 8 and you tecnically can walk it..but not for long, it wears ya out. I could climb on a 12/12 using the seams, but getting down is scary.
Dale also has a lower center of gravity, I think guys like that can do better roofing, than us tall , skinney top heavy guys..hell, I can get blown over in the wind on flat ground..LOL only a size 9.5 shoe too..long, but skinny..like cheap flippers.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Yeah, new copper grabs nice - it's the Kynar finish that is slick as snot on a glass doorknob!;)
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
two pipe clamps and some 3/4 ply ,24' sq., with 3/4" holes in it. Slip the pipe through the two top rungs, clamp the ply to the ladder. No slip , no fall.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Wheres the fun that? If your adrenaline ain't pumping, you'd be sleeping up there.(G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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But of course you guys all have harnesses on with ropes , rope grabs , and lanyards -- affixed to an anchorage capable of supporting 5000 lbs. <G>
Me personally would rather be bareback than tripping over yet another thing. But we have had the jobs where we did. One I remember was just too crazy not to, and another was high vis. to any OSHA guys.
Still have my Miller harness, worn maybe 3 times in the last 2 yrs.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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I prefer no ropes in most situations - would rather put up rails on the eaves stagings.
That last post was tongue in cheek to some degree.
High profile location brings about a lot of OSHA compliance though !!
Yeah, I knew ya was ribbing.
The funniest thing was one day Dale forgot to unhook getting outta the boom lift..half way out of the basket he got hung up..couldn't get back in or get out till I yanked him back in.
That one big barrel dormer job we had, that had about 10 dormers was a strict compliance type job..hard hats blowing off in the never ending wind, ropes getting tangled and we got chewed out for wearing shorts..I hate places like that.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Closer to the truth than you know. I can and have slept at the drop of a hat in some pretty funny places. As a kid I slept though the tornado/storm that tore the slate roof off our house. Fell asleep once at parade rest while listening to the days work assignments once right out of bootcamp. Everybody else leaves, I am standing there eyes wide open and sound asleep ... the O.D. didn't take kindly to that .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Man, me too. I was out after the ice storm just putzing around, it was fridgid, but the sun was out and it was just beautiful. I sat down and leaned back against my stickered wood pile of flooring, and dammed if I didn't nod off for 2 HOURS!
Lucky I didn't freeze to death..LOLSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Everytime I go to the dentist.
One time pulling the transmission woke up the next morning and bumped my head.
I use to sleep on the bales coming out of recyle baler when it hit the ground I would wake up and load the bale.
ANDYSZ2WHY DO I HAVE TO EXPLAIN TO FRIENDS AND FAMILY THAT BEING A SOLE PROPRIETOR IS A REAL JOB?
REMODELER/PUNCHOUT SPECIALIST
I don't want it to stick. That makes more work when I move it over each time. The hook at the ridge takes care of making it stick.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Looks great now, but that is going to be fantastic when the copper weathers a bit.
jt8
lotsa worse things happen to better people than me every day. --Snort
Looks great, and cold.
Lucky for Chileo that vent missed the seam..
Was that a Downspout all crinkled like that? Never saw that before ( the vent cover that is).Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Was that a Downspout all crinkled like that? Never saw that before ( the vent cover that is).
I think that's a weird reflection or flux streaks where they soldered it upside down. If you look at the finished roof picture it looks smooth. http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
The boy sure can drip flux in nice pattern..LOL
Kinda cool looking, but yeah, the other pic is smooth..thats odd.
( Got the check..thanx) Azek coming to the job, Monday.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Lucky for Chileo that vent missed the seam..
The 1st one hit a seam. I couldn't dodge them both.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Looks nice, I like the building with the arch details. What about the gable ends, anything interesting?
No one should regard themselve as "God's gift to man." But rather a mere man whos gifts are from God.
I like the building with the arch details. What about the gable ends, anything interesting?
Nothing real special, but the side shown is the least interesting side.
The inside of the house is incredible, though. http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Really cool, you gotta love what you do.
At the risk of being a hijack:
I'm thinking of having a cousin do the rip for my cedar, 10/12 roof is steep for a DIYer. If I went with foam panels with nail substrate, which is better OSB or CDX ply, also what thickness of wood, 7/16 is the minimum Hunter makes. Still considering spray foam inside instead, trying to get a handle on this.
thanks
Kevin
which is better OSB or CDX ply
I think CDX holds nails better than OSB on the average, but Advantek which is an OSB product seems to hold nails best.
7/16" OSB is adequate. Thicker is better.
The product you're looking at is similar to a SIPS panel which typically have a 7/16" OSB nailing substrate. We've done copper on several SIPS roofs and have not had any nail release problems. I suspect the insulation reduces/eliminates deflection which would be a major contributor to nails backing out.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
OK, thicker is better, joke in there somewhere, I'll look into Advantech.Thanks
big ballpark ...
what's a roof like that cost in the end to the customer.
either turn key ... tear off to last nail ...
or the new roofing itself ... labor, materials, sweep the drive before ya leave.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
This roof is 58 sq and pretty simple. IIRC, tear off, disposal, dry-in, copper standing seam, and snow guards is about 80K. There's been several changes since we started. It was assumed we'd have to resheath with advantek. We thought it had split sheathing , but it was 5/8" plywood. The ceilings are all vaulted, so we couldn't tell 'til we tore off. Then, we had an ice storm and and snow guards got added.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
As always, outstanding !
What is you rot for snow guards ?
I have two building with metal roofs (agri. type). After the ice storm one dumped all the ice and snow onto the fence and gate of a dog excecise area. Pretty much trashed the fence and the gate. I told DW I would e-mail you and find out the spacing and locations for them, but have slept since I told her that. (I'm like a goose,... wake up everyday and it's a new world,.... got start all over)
find out the spacing and locations for them,
With Ag panels, you'll probably have to use the glue on type. I've seen them on roofs, but have never touched one. Do a search for snow guards and most brands have installation diagrams. They vary from style to style and we don't need as much protection here as they do farther north.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant,
Are you using the clamp to the seam guards by Alpine for this roof ? Or is there a better one you employ ?
Are you using the clamp to the seam guards by Alpine for this roof ?
Berger clamp to seam, but I haven't ordered yet. I'll look at the Alpines. My dealer carries Berger so that's what we've used, historically.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Alpine's only let you use a one bar system with copper , but two bar for steel.
I guess they feel the copper isn't able to take the stress and weight from a two bar system.
Or maybe you're using individual guards that clamp on ?
Or maybe you're using individual guards that clamp on ?
Yeah. Berger RT100 is the part #, I think. I looked at the Alpines - they're about the same. I'll stick with what I know.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Hey - how's the butt hinge?http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Thanks for asking ! Saw my Saw Bones yesterday - took some pictures and found the cup and ball looked good.
Thought it was bursitus/tendonitous . Gave me a cortisone shot , a prescription for anti inflammatories and a scrip for physical therapy.
Quite a relief to find I didn't need the knife after having 4 op's on the left one.
Clocks change this weekend ! Spring is almost here.
Now I know why the bears hibernate - we've had one He** of a Winter.
and a scrip for physical therapy.
Hopefully you'll get a little cutie for a therapist. And maybe the therapist will be female as well..........
Last time I had to get physical therapy, this lovely young woman climbed on my back and rode me like I was a rodeo bull. Unfortunately, it only took one session to get me back up and running. I could have stood that on a weekly basis for a while.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Wasn't she a Snap-On tool saleslady?Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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No.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I still think Walter just needs some grease fittings installed. He'd go for another 100,000 miles.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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Reminds me of a Saturday night live skit, Mel Gibson was the Dream Gynecologist, women booking appointments for no reason at all.
Looks real purdey. Great work but all I can think of is...
HAIL STORM!
If ya ever get one you gotta go back out and take pictures for us.
Heck, they can bill for an upcharge after a hail storm. Cause then it's a fancy embossed copper instead of plain ole shiny flat.
That's what I thought 'cause if one wanted a peckering like that it would be a hellofa charge.
Hail doesn't do much to it. If hail hits when it's shiny, you might be able to see it from the ground. After it turns, the dings are pretty much unnoticeable from any distance.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant,
In your second photo...
When you break a long eave-to-ridge run like that up into 10' long panels, how do you detail (for water) the folded flat hammered seams between the upper and lower panels, especially where the hammered flat seam meets the standing seam?
Have any details on that?
Thanks much.
It looks mighty purdy. Keep the pics coming.
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Looking at how you attach the panels to roof decking. Is there additional nailing points or longer nails when you have to meet hurricane codes?
Also, are snow guards a code requirement in some areas? Like the way they look.
Edited 3/8/2009 6:21 pm ET by dockelly
Is there additional nailing points or longer nails when you have to meet hurricane codes?
We typically install nailing clips at 16" or less OC to meet 80mph wind rating. Hurricane rating calls for clipping at 12" or less OC.
Snow guards are not code required here. Might be there.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I'll stop at the BI office next week, ask them what's code.
Had to make a gas vent boot for the copper roof. Dale got it installed Fri and should have some pics of the finished product later.
I drew it in Sketchup for quick diminsioning. Then I laid it out on cardboard, cut the seperate pieces and taped it together for a test fit. Laid it back out flat amd cut and bent. One joint to solder:
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http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Thats Sweet. You drew it in 3-D on sketchup then some how used that to figure out how to make it flat? Or how are you using sketchup to help you? Saves time and mistakes?
Cool idea, Id have trouble drawing that out in sketchup let alone in copper. I feel like such a dummy with sketchup and Ive watched sketchup for dummies, just dont spend enough time I guess to remember what I learned. Anyways nice job thanks for sharing.
You drew it in 3-D on sketchup then some how used that to figure out how to make it flat?
Yeah - I can figure all the bends, but it's tedious. I'm away from the computer I have the SU file on. I'll show you how I do it it in SU tomorrow sometime.
I draw a sloped plane 1st (8/12 in this case) and work on that. The beauty of SU (and other CAD progams) is the ability to get acurate dimensions from them.
That boot is comprised of a bunch of triangles - no more than two the same. I dimension the SU file on all sides of each triangle and then I can cut cardboard to correspond.
Saves time and mistakes?
I had maybe an hour in that from start of design to finish. When I've made them before and calculated the layout, it took me maybe 3 hours. I could have gone even faster if I had my laptop in the shop rather than printing out different views.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
It is an awesome boot., those kinda touches really stand out.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I get it but dont totaly see the details of what you mean. You work off a triangle with said roof slope? OK but then where do you start when drawing the boot? I did give it a shot on sketchup aaaannnnnnnnnddd it was all boogered up.
Here's some pics of the SU model. Maybe this will answer your questions.
I start with an 8/12 plane and work the model up on it:
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Here you can hopefully see the triangles that comprise the boot. I cut each one of these out of cardboard, then tape them together except for one joint so it will lay flat and use that as a template to mark the copper.
With SU, I can add and delete dimensions as needed, so I'm eliminating the calculation process. I just decide how wide and how tall and everything else works itself out. http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Thanks I could see how it could be done I just couldnt do it myself, something else to try and get the hang of sometime. So many things to try so little time. Thanks for your time.
By the way I always enjoy seeing your copper threads. I think copper is one of the most beautiful and interesting materials there is.