Ok, don’t laugh….. I know that 99.999999% of the impact drivers out there are cordless, for good reason.
But with my house building projects I’ve almost always got a plug close by, I don’t work as a tradesman, and I’m tired of the racket of batteries failing long before a tool is worn out and being forced to buy replacement batteries at twice the cost of the original tool. Does anyone make a decent corded impact?
Thanks,
Scott.
Replies
I have never seen a corded impact screwdriver. Screwguns yes, heavy duty impact wrenches yes but nothing to compare to cordless impacts. I recommend looking at some of the 10.8-12v LiIon jobs. Easy to carry, pretty strong for smaller jobs. I have the Bosch line, Makita driver and impact look impressive.
For most jobs my reach for tool is the standard type 12v Bosch impact. If the job is bigger I use a 14.4 DeWalt, have misplaced my 12v DeWalt. I love the small Bosch stuff, have the ps10, 20,40 and new multi-x ps50.
I have a couple of drywall/deckdrivers but find myself using cordless more often than not. I do have one of the Senco strip attachments and did use it last time I had more than a board or two of 'rock.
Edited 12/18/2008 6:54 pm ET by rasconc
Anyone used this?
http://makita.com/en-us/Modules/Tools/ToolDetails.aspx?ID=455
Scott.
With 88ft lbs of torque you'll overdrive every screw you try to run in that doesn't break with that Mak. I have a similar one of those by BD from the early 80s and it's a hoss but not meant for screws. And the weight (3 lbs) will get you eventually if th ebulk doesn't.
Most of the small 1/4" driv eimpacts are around 88in lbs
I have the makita 14.4 impact.It is: "Powerful efficient impacting 103.3 ft.lbs. (1,240 in.lbs.) for industrial applications"I hardly ever overdrive or break a screw.No different from a corded screwgun.
Just because they want to make it personal,
doesn't mean you have to take it personal.
Hey John.Just did some comparing at Makita's website. The 18V cordless BTD141 is rated at 1,330 in-lbs of torque. The corded 6952 is rated at 1,062. So maybe overdriving wouldn't be an issue.Of course, specs can mislead.....Scott.
Now I have seen one!
That looks comparable to the 12v Bosch impact which I have, 1052 " lbs and 3.7# wt.
http://www.boschtools.com/Products/Tools/Pages/BoschProductDetail.aspx?pid=23612
Looks like just what you are looking for. If it has the featherable trigger you should be able to do small to large screws with a little practice. Still think I would prefer cordless unless working in one location like furniture production or something.
I have some DeWalt 24v (older) and have two of the A/C adapters. They are the size of the large 24v battery and have a cooling fan incorporated. I wish they and others did that. Guess they had rather sell batteries.
For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Edited 12/18/2008 7:16 pm ET by rasconc
That one looks like a cordless one to me. No?
Scott.
I was referring to the Makita you had linked and comparing it to the cordless link, mainly to compare the power and weight.For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Ahhh.... got it. Thanks.Scott.
I've been usin' a 6952 for 'bout 6 years. Installed Durock in three bathrooms with it a couple weeks ago. Have also used it for cabinets, sub-floor, and deckin'.
It will snap the head off a Durock screw if you want it to.3,200 rpm can make screw startin' a little tricky, so I usually use my cordless for cabinets._______
/_|o[____]o
[1---L-OllllllO-
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Nice to know, thanks.>>>3,200 rpm can make screw startin' a little tricky, so I usually use my cordless for cabinets.Isn't it variable speed?Scott.
I'm hoping this works to flag this for Junkhound.
This thread reminds me of something that I was curious about, a while back...
Has anyone taken an old battery pack, and instead of putting new cells in it, put some sort of transformer inside ?
Would it even be possible to find a transformer that would replace the battery pack for something like the makita 14.4 impact ?
Just because they want to make it personal,
doesn't mean you have to take it personal.
Now yer thinkin.I would think the challenge would be to find a transformer that would generate enough current. Voltage is one thing, current is the killer.Scott.
DeWalt had that type of thing years ago..dunno if it is around.
Other than that there are corded impact WRENCHs that have a 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket fitting, adapt away.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
>>>Other than that there are corded impact WRENCHs that have a 3/8" or 1/2" drive socket fitting, adapt away.Yeah, but as John above indicates, my DeWalt 1/2 impact generates >400 ft. lbs. of torque. That's no screwdriver, and I wouldn't want to lug it around all day (friggin thing weighs about 10 lbs).John, you may be right, although a few postings I've read about that unit (by deck guys) made it sound like busting screws wasn't any more of a problem than it is with the cordless ones. Apparently you can feather the trigger for good control.Scott.
Edited 12/18/2008 6:52 pm by Scott
Exactly my concern, and why I am hoping Art will chime in.If anyone can tell you how to rig one up, and what to use, it would be him.
Just because they want to make it personal,
doesn't mean you have to take it personal.
I remember Dave Thomas (is he still around, BTW?) saying that he used 12v cordless tools so he had the option of hooking up directly to his truck battery in remote situations.I would guess that you could very easily rework 12v tools, as there is already a large market of accessories for stepping 12v power up to 120v. I wonder if you could just go in reverse?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
1st. Have a couple of SKIL 599's that are decent impact driver/drills. cheap at garage sale. Don't use'em much though, use big bosch hammer for drilling even 1/4" holes in concrete, air impact for impact, right tool for the right job you know.
As for Jeff's specific query on xfmr conversion, do not know of any "off the shelf converters" that supply 15A at 12, 14.4. or 18V. (15A is about the short circuit current of a sub-C NiCd). The 19V dell laptop power supplies crank out about 5A, one of those would probably work for an 18V battery with the battery left on the tool for peaking.
However, with a 'little bit' of knowledge and $10 worth of parts (and about 5 hours design and assembly) , one could 'easily' build an AC-DC converter that would weigh less than the battery. Never have done it for a battery tool as it is easier to pickup a corded version for less than $10 at a garage sale or craigslist. Have designed and built similar supplies for aircraft and satellites.
FWIW, here is a partial parts list for a converter: a. any 600V, 10A full wave bridge; b. a PWM controller (UC1825 or similar); c. a couple of 600V, 50A FETs; d. planar ferrite core for a custom 400 kHz xfmr; e. a 50A fast recovery or schottky diode pair; f. assorted R & C and a heat sink. Solder'em all together and ready to go. Did build a continuous 100A capable, 12V car battery charger that weighs about 5 pounds.
If'n I got more'n ten or so screws to drive or holes to drill, I'll always use corded or air.
Try driving 50ea 4" 3/8" lags (or even just one) with a battery driver sometime - hah! But short work with a big old 3/4" drive 300 RPM corded drill.
So, it is possible. But you have to build your own.I kinda figured that was the case.Your list of parts is greek, to me. And I'd have no idea how to put them together.However, I could probably do the 'design and assembly' if I had the parts and knowledge.I am keen on doing this for my Makita 14.4v impact and drill.Right now, I can pretty much keep up with myself, just using one battery while the other charges. But one day, at least one of those batteries is going to be no good any more.Yes, the batteries can be rebuilt, for the cordless. And I just may give that a try as well, when the time comes. But I'd just like to have the corded option, with the same drivers, anyway. My corded hammer drill has given up the ghost. Gears are stripped. You pull the trigger and it will noisily spin right up. But you can grab the chuck and easily stop it. Needless to say, it won't drill a hole in tissue paper. ;o)This cordless Makita impact driver WILL drive 10 of those 3/8" by 4" lag bolts... Like butter, as gramma would say... ~Without~ pilot holes. And still go on, to drive about 3 pounds of deck screws. Done did it.
Just because they want to make it personal,
doesn't mean you have to take it personal.
These links will give you some ideas on how to power your cordless tools from 120v. I did a quickie search - there are probably better instructables than these two examples:http://www.instructables.com/id/Mod-a-cordless-power-tool-battery-to-run-with-wall/http://www.instructables.com/id/How-To-Make-a-Cordless-Tool-Corded/
there are probably better instructables than these two examples:
Let's hope so... Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
Let me apologize to everyone in advance if I repeat what's already been said as I didn't read any of the prior discussions.
This exact topic has driven me crazy for years. Everybody raves about cordless this and cordless that and there is no question that the newest stuff is very impressive. But the battery life just is not there--you'll never convince me otherwise don't nobody even try!
I found info on the Makita 6952 online as naturally nobody actually stocks REAL tools only 47 varieties of the cordless ####. Scraped together a few extra dollars behind the wife's back and ordered it in through Home Depot. It was like the clouds parted and the sun finally shone through.
My little Makita impact is now the crown jewel of my tool collection just because of the unmitigated joy it has brought me after years of suffering at the hands of the cordless tool/Phillips screw tyrants. So far I've used it for countless small applications and I've built 125 ft. of redwood fence with nothing but Torx screws driven by my new best friend. By the way, I never had to charge a single stupid battery.
It's extremely light and smooth operating. It feels so precision it almost feels like a medical instrument or something they'd probably use in the aerospace industry. If you are even considering buying this product I personally cannot say enough good about it!!!
Now maybe I'll go back and read all the previous posts seeing as I've got that off my chest.
>>>it almost feels like a medical instrument or something they'd probably use in the aerospace industry.Hahahaha... no hyperbole in your post! But thanks, you've confirmed what I thought.Can I show my wife your post? Maybe it will help with the budget negotiations..... ;)Scott.
Yes, I have seen some made by Bosch. I do not remember the web address, so just google it, and I have never used one, so I don't know if they are any good.
I feel your pain about cordless tools. I own many different kinds by just about all the major brands, and the bottom line for me is that the one that goes with me to work is the one that is the most conveniant to get. Cordless tools are just too fragile nowadays.
I am not much on expensive battery powered tools that don't last and are excessively bulky either.
My favorite driving tool for wood screws is to use an air driven tool.
Air driven tools are smooth, powerful, easy to feather, very compact and light, very ergonomic, durable and won't twist you arm off if a screw grabs suddenly. Your battery never dies and you never find the battery dead.
Air tools are also pretty fast and you can also control depth to a fair degree by setting the pressure.
For #10 wood screws and smaller, I don't see the need for impact if you are using an air tool. By using stall type drivers, you can actually run the tool til the screw seats and stalls the driver then you can hold the trigger depressed and give it one more final tweek to depth by twisting the pistol grip tool with your wrist if you must have super precision. Mostly I just feather the trigger as necessary to achieve the depth I want. An air tool doesn't coast from inertia once you let go of the trigger the way a corded drill will.
Here is the tool I use
http://www.browntool.com/productselect.asp?ProductID=781
I use the model with 2000rpm free speed and 80inlbs of torque. It will drive 3" long #10 screws easily.
It's made in America by Sioux and is a joy to use. It sinks screws like they are melting into butter and the grip allows you to have a very straight line of thrust with your wrist. I typically use my middle finger on the trigger so my finger next to the thumb can guide it precisely.
I mostly use square drive screws for wood.
Edited 12/18/2008 8:21 pm ET by HoustonsProblem
Edited 12/18/2008 8:22 pm ET by HoustonsProblem
Edited 12/18/2008 8:24 pm ET by HoustonsProblem
Edited 12/18/2008 8:27 pm ET by HoustonsProblem
I think I'd rather drag an electrical cord than an air-hose...Julian
It's personal preference of course, but many people already have hose layed out for nailers and good quality polyurethane hose like Flexeel is very light and manageable.The small size, light weight, lack of inertia, and superior hand placement make an air tool the best driver for me.
Looks like a nice tool but I am surprised that the max torque is 80 "#. That must be at pretty low air pressure/vol. Plenty enough for aerospace but seems low for our applications. I would guess that is about the torque of my 12v drill with the clutch set on 1 or 2 and I sure would not expect it to run a 3" #10 in anything with the clutch set on anything but the upper settings.
Not questioning you (looked at your link). Same comment I had about the corded Makita, I see them great for a manufacturing station/production but not general use.
That Brown site is hard on my eyes, do not know why these web designers think black on red or black on blue is anything other than cute. Guess I do not play enough video games(:-).
Cheers, Bob
For those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
Edited 12/18/2008 10:42 pm ET by rasconc
I've used the tool to drive 305SS, 3", #10's joining pressure treated 2 x4's and to drive steel, 3", #10's to join southern yellow pine 2 x 4's. No pilot holes driven. I managed to break one of the 305SS screws when I hit a nasty not in the PT. The 305SS is not as stiff, not as hard, and not as strong as the steel.It will drive the screws and counter sink em. You can do this at 80 to 90 psi. The lubed screws can be driven with even less pressure.They also make a 1200rpm, 145inlb tool, but unless your driving lag bolts, there is no need.Mcfeeley's did a test of lots of screws and the strongest #10's YIELDED at 80 inlbs. Most #10's YIELDED at approximately half that. http://www.mcfeelys.com/tech/tough.htmScrews drive easy. A number 10 screw is only 1/8" in diameter at the root of the threads. You don't need a lot of torque to break that much less drive it. The air tools I linked to have 1hp. All the cordless drivers have much higher torque which you don't need for driving screws and much lower horsepower meaning that can't drive a screw as fast as an air tool but you can break them easier or twist your wrist easier.A typical battery impact driver (not Lithium ion) weighs twice as much and a drill driver weighs almost three times as much as the air drill.I kind of went through the same process as the original poster. If I was doing electrical work and needed to drill a couple holes or drive a few screws after climbing up in an attic, a cordless is great. But if I am driving lots of screws to build something that won't rattle or squeek or I just can't swing a hammer good in a tight spot, an air tool will sink the screws the best.
Based on your detailed description, that sounds like a sweet tool.But I'm baffled by the difference in torque specs.The Makita screwdriver is rated at:Maximum torque 88.5 ft.lbs. (1,062 in.lbs.) The Brown screwdriver is rated at:80 in lbs...Somthin' screwy here (pun completely intended). I'm thinking that Brown corp. actually means ft. lbs.Scott.
The makita is an impact driver and the Sioux is a screw driver.Lug nuts on many cars are driven to 100 ft lbs. A #10 screw will typically yield at less than 80 in lbs.Sioux tools are used in industrial environments to assemble furniture, build mobil homes, RV's etc.I used to work maintenance in a factory and I got used to using air impact wrenches, air ratchets and die grinders and I much prefer an air tool to a clumsy battery or corded tool for drilling holes or sinking screws.The air tool develops lots of horsepower when it spins up but doesn't have lots of torque when it stalls. This is a feature and not a flaw. If you take your Milwaukee 1/2 drill, it will spin the screw at 750 rpm and will even coast a little when you let go of the trigger. If you don't let go of the trigger an electric drill can twist your wrist especially if your working in metal. An air drill or driver will spin the screw fast but once it stalls it doesn't have nearly as much inertia or torque to twist your wrist. The air drill or driver will typically develop a lot more horsepower than the electric counter part so you can get a lot done.
>>>The makita is an impact driver and the Sioux is a screw driver.I missed that part, thanks. Different moments of inertia.Scott.
Thanks, great info!! I stand better educated now. I have run several aircraft repair ships and we had lots of drills and some of the techs had similar guns. We had air all over.
I guess you need a 3' bit and you can do stand up decking (;-).
BobFor those who have fought for it Freedom has a flavor the protected will never know.
You can try looking for one of these on Craigs list/ebay or local flea market/yard sales. It's a B&D Sru Drill made back in the day when B&D made some decent industrial tools. It has a clutch like the cordless impacts,and can be locked in a drill mode. I break it out occasionally for major srew jobs like decks.
I have these for sale if you do decide to go cordless
http://southcoast.craigslist.org/tls/935520909.html
"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow
Resized"Shawdow boxing the appoclipse and wandering the land"
Wier/Barlow