Current project ongoing: I have a wing wall that sticks out into the bathroom. I’m putting tile wainscot all around the room from the floor to about 48″ above the floor, with a tile chair rail at the top.
Normally, on a drywall wall, you would put corner bead on both outside corners of the wing wall, from the floor to the ceiling. However, if you’re tiling the wall and install corner bead first, the corner bead will make the end of the wall flare out at least 1/16″ on each side, and probably more like an 1/8″. The tile will telegraph that flare.
If you don’t put corner bead on the corner behind the tile, then the corner bead above the chair rail will flare out anyhow, and the flare will be noticeable when the corner bead covers up part of the top of the chair rail.
From what I’ve read elsewhere, you don’t put corner bead behind tile. You just tape the greenboard corner and mud it square. But that’s not really an option for the exposed drywall corners above the wainscot.
Anybody have any advice?
Replies
Properly taped corners do no flare.
No cornerbead necessary behind tile. In fact, theres no need to even tape the corner behind the tile.....especially if you`ll be using mastic to install tile.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"In fact, theres no need to even tape the corner behind the tile"
There certainly is a need to wrap that corner. That corner should be backerboard wrapped with CBU tape that is set with thinset. Corners, inside and out expand and contract. Similar and dissimilar materials expend and contract at different rates.
Expansion and contraction causes cracks. To minimize such cracks similar materials should be used to bridge such gaps, so using CBU on both sides and wrapping with thinset bonded mesh tape helps eliminate cracking at corners.
No need to tape here is akin to suggesting no need to wrap the diamong mesh on an outside cultured stone fireplace ... aka ... guaranteed crack. Vic
He is not using CBU on either side (as best as I can tell)....he is using drywall.
Tile, set with mastic, does not adhere well to unpainted compound.
While situations vary on a case to case basis depending on specific materials, existing conditions, enviroment, etc.....in this instance, as described by the OP, I will disagree with you and suggest that he will be fine doing as I recomended.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Do you or have you had any problems with the grout cracking at your corner detail?
If its a concern, I would terminate the sheetrock in a j-metal channel at the wainscot level, and just use cornerbead from there up.
But if its properly done, I don't think cornerbead would be a problem. I prefer the tape-on cornerbead, with plenty of mud behind it. Meaning its a solid corner when it dries, not a hollow corner like you often end up with when you use the nail-on cornerbead.
CaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
i wouldnt corner bead behind tile. i would run cement baord up to split behind the chairrail gluing and screwing the baord to the wall and mesh tape the seams and corners before tiling.
then drywall from there up so the chair rail covers the seam betw cement and gypsum. i love tape on corners, and feathered out enough will never show a buidup
i also glue the gap betw. cement board and gyp.
Dan Lynn, Dan Lynn Construction, Joliet, IL
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