Replies

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jan 16, 2006 04:40am | #1

   By "corner bead" do you mean the galvanized piece of metal that is used to wrap around an outside corner?  If so, you will need to replace this cracked piece.

   If you mean inside corners, is it the same ones that keep cracking?  How were they previously repaired?  If they were merely caulked, they will continue to open up until the proper repair is made.

   -Don

    

1. 
   Sahara1 | Jan 16, 2006 04:59am | #2

   Actually I am getting cracks at some inside corners, between wall and ceiling, which have just paper tape and mud, but the bigger problem is the metal outside corner beads.  A friend suggested that the original beads were not installed with enough nails (maybe crimped only) and/or not enough mud.  My plan to fix them was to add additional nails and re-mud them all.

1. 
   Fonzie | Jan 16, 2006 06:24am | #3

   We used to see some of that so we tape over the joint between the metal and the drywall holding it back about 1/2 inch from the corner. We haven't seen any cracking since.

2. 
   DonCanDo | Jan 17, 2006 01:33am | #5

   Actually I am getting cracks at some inside corners, between wall and ceiling, which have just paper tape and mud, but the bigger problem is the metal outside corner beads.  A friend suggested that the original beads were not installed with enough nails (maybe crimped only) and/or not enough mud.  My plan to fix them was to add additional nails and re-mud them all.

   If the corner bead itself is actually cracked, it will need to be replaced.  That doesn't sound like the case.  Apparently, it's pulling away from the wall.  I agree with your plan.  Just don't rely on the joint compound to secure the corner bead at all.  Use nails for that.  For most drywall, I use screws, but I think nails work better for corner bead.  Use as many nails as it takes to get it to lay flat.

   -Don

2. 
   cowtown | Jan 16, 2006 06:39am | #4

   If it's the wall ceiling intersection, it likley ain't corner bead, but rather just drywall tape....

   any chance you got a cathedral type ceiling, ie the ceiling  slopes up to meet yer walls? With some types of this type of truss construction, the heat differential between yer heated inside ceiling and the outside coldish roof means that the truss is gonna move. up or down, just like a bimetalic strip in a thermostat (this differential expansion is detailed in most grade 7 curiculums) Don't be annoyed that I point this out, I too never thought of it as an explanation til it was pointed out to me.

   seen it in a home in Manitoba (just a tad north and west of Michigan, but subject to -35ish winters too) , tried to fix it to no avail, and as far as I know from reading, the only defence against it is in the initial installation of the drywall, the drywall simply not being fastened to the studs at some distance from the corners which allows it to flex with the temperature gradient.

    Seems to me that it was an article in FHB way backwhen that tuned me into this, if indeed that is your situation.

   Eric in Calgary.

3. 
   maverick | Jan 17, 2006 01:52am | #6

   Fonzie got it right. I paper tape all my metal corner beads. Its one of those extra steps that make a difference.

   In your case its not too late to paper tape over what you have. First drive a few screws or nails to secure the corner bead. leave the paper about 1/2" from the corner. Feathering the compound at the corners will be a bit tricky. Try not to have a lot of compound build up right on the corner in high traffic areas.

    Its the only sure fix

1. 
   Fonzie | Jan 17, 2006 05:43am | #7

   Maverick,By the way have you tried using 1/4 crown staples on the outside corner - I disarm the safety so I can hold back (mine has no depth adj) and it's easy, doesn't distort the metal. It has been discussed here and several guys do it - just wanted to mention.Fz

4. 
   dirtysanchez | Jan 18, 2006 01:32am | #8

   a couple of years ago we switched to the no-coat corner beads and we've had no cracking at inside or outside. try it at forty dollars a roll if it works great if it dont blame it on settleing and wait a while if it's a new house. for your repair i' d say take off the meatl and smooth where the old comp. was w/ dura bond the apply the no- coat and skim the out side and your done.(sand after dry of course) we bed all our no coat with duarbond and like i said no cracks.