I’m making a corner ‘floating’ wall shelf to hold a 40″ TV. The problem is a brick fireplace along one wall which protrudes out about 4 inches and stops 25 inches from the corner. Based on the dimensions of the TV and its stand the TV will have to be situated so that its edge will be in front of the brick. I was going to start with a 24″ X 24″ square shelf and make an angle cut across the front. I lose 4 inches on one edge due to the brick and the opposite end of the stand hangs off the shelf a bit. Would it look funny if I used a 28″ X 24″ rectangle instead? I know rectangular shelves and tables are put in corners all the time but I’m wondering what it’s going to look like when I cut off the front edge of the rectangle.
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Replies
Jim
the look of the finish might be heightened by the front of the set being parallel to the long edge if the shelf. That and the finished edgr of the shelf.
or depending on the type of TV.....
use an adjustible bracket that could remain in a certain position or adjusted for better viewing.
Calvin
The TV will be on an angle and not parallel to the long side of the rectangle. What I'm thinking is to put the TV on the rectangle, angle the TV for best viewing (stand does not swivel) and cut the front edge off the shelf parallel to the TV screen.
Yes
the cut parallel to the tv edge. With the right edge treatment to complement the mantle or with as minimal a shelf thickness as you can get away with and colored like the wall, it'll look as if it floats.
I've seen many tv shelves of various shapes and sizes and except for the hung by log chain types, most look just fine.
Calvin
I was going to screw 3/4" cleats to both walls, attach a piece the same dimension as the wall cleats to the ends of the cleats, make the shelf out of 1/2" plywood, put edging on the ply to add support and cover the cleats.
Jim
what is the weight of the tv and the dimensions in length of the wall cleats and the other sides?
what height are you mounting it?
Calvin
TV weighs 17 pounds. Wall cleats will be 24 inches on one wall and 28 inches on the other wall. I was planning on ripping them from a 2 X 4 and make them 1" X 1 1 /2". The shelf will be approximately 3 feet above the floor.
Jim
Another idea, sort of a torsion box. Mount deeper cleats to the wall , use 2 layers of 1/2" with a spacer in between for a box. Swallow the cleats with the ply box. Now you won't see the cleats. Truly a floating look.
Calvin
I figured that if the edging was longer than the cleats that the cleats would not be seen and it would look like a floater even without the bottom 1/2" layer and the whole thing would be lighter but still strong enough to hold the 17 pounds.
Sounds great
just thought I'd offer another idea to confuse the issue.
and a very Happy New Year to you and the family!
Sounds Greater
Happy New Year to you and your family!!!!
I like your idea of the floating shelf better. Are you ok with a 1 inch thick cleat ripped from a 2 X 4? I'd like the shelf to look thinner rather than thicker. With the 1 inch cleat and 1/2" top and bottom it would be about 2 inches thick.
Yes
But orient the grain to eliminate the chance of splitting. Or find some scrap wood with a tighter grain. And drill the box mounting screws down into the cleats on either side of the cleat mounts. Anything to keep the cleat whole.
I'd countersink some 3" deck screws for mounting to the walls and catch as many studs as possible.
Calvin Thank You
I usually pre-drill. I've got some Timberlok and GRK screws to attach the cleats to the wall......nothing like a little (or a lot of) overkill.
All the better Jim
Washered screw plenty long won't tend to split like a flat head screw.
Calvin
I generally drill a countersink for the flat heads.
Another reason to go with your suggestion of a 'torsion type' floater is that I can build the whole thing and then install it.....there is a smaller shelf there now holding a smaller TV so I'll be able to take off the old and install the new without a lot of measuring and fitting. Thank You once again.