Replies

1. 
   AitchKay | Mar 07, 2009 07:22pm | #1

   Yep.

   Pry and shim the baseboard straight before you start.

   Try to remember to scuff it up first -- seems like I rarely do, but I haven't had any callbacks.

   A length of bevelled siding works fairly well for screeding it off, but you can use a 4'or 6' level, too. Whatever you've got lying around. [Oops, scratch out that 4' level, I see you're saying it's about 6' wide.]

   Don't worry about getting it pretty at first, just try to fill it completely with your first coat. Then you won't have to use the screed again, just regular drywall knives to smooth out the subsequent coats.

   AitchKay

   
   

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   Edited 3/7/2009 11:24 am ET by AitchKay

1. 
   Jebadia | Mar 07, 2009 07:39pm | #5

   Thanks for the tip Aitchkay,Never saw anyone screet mud but it sounds interesting.

2. 
   sledgehammer | Mar 07, 2009 07:25pm | #2

   Durabond would be great, but you better have lots of experience with it. I'd use easysand topped with regular bucket mud.

    

   Since the base isn't down can you cut it up some, remove screws/nails and slip in a shim behind the drywall? Would be alot quicker then feathering it out. Of course if it's glued well that's not an option.

   
   

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   Edited 3/7/2009 11:27 am ET by sledgehammer

1. 
   Jebadia | Mar 07, 2009 07:36pm | #3

   Base is already down but that is know big deal. Wall has been painted. I have know experience with the durabond but I could try it on scrap to get a feel for it. The kids are young and full of energy. The wall in question is the one leading into the new edition.

1. 
   sledgehammer | Mar 08, 2009 12:04am | #6

   Remember, you can not sand duraband.

1. 
   ruffmike | Mar 08, 2009 01:01am | #8

   http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=116590.1#a5                            Mike

       Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

2. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 08, 2009 05:24pm | #12

   I use cast offs from the floor sanding guys. Stabled to a block of 2x4. Black 80 grit will cut it down fast.

   One trick with d bond is to catch it while it is still 'green'; before it has set completely and you can srape it sculpt it with some imaginative tools. 

3. 
   ruffmike | Mar 07, 2009 07:36pm | #4

   Aitch has the right idea. get the baseboard up first and float to match. We do this in a lot of older houses for contractors.

   I would use hot mud to get it built up and all purpose to top it off.

   Sand the paint to scratch it up a little first.

                               Mike

       Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

   
   

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   Edited 3/7/2009 11:37 am by ruffmike

4. 
   brucet9 | Mar 08, 2009 12:36am | #7

   I use Easy Sand 45 for that sort of thing. Rough up the paint with coarse sandpaper first for better adhesion.

   I just did a 7' section of wall that was out 1/2", as well as four smaller ones, prior to putting up 4" x 9/16" base. Put it on with a 6" knife, then screeded with an 8' board. After it set up, I gently scraped off high spots with a 12" blade and applied the second coat and feathered the edges.

   Actually, some of the smaller sections I did not notice until I started running the base. About 1/4" bow in the wall in an 18" span, so I just ran a drywall screw into the base of the wall midway to support the bottom edge of the baseboard and nailed it up. When I feathered out the wall above the new base, I made sure to press some of the compound down behind the base for support and a good clean edge.

   Sanding was very easy two days later. I used a damp sponge to feather the edges so no hint of the new work shows. If the wall is textured, the sponge feathering is especially important since you can't sand a feather edge against orange peel.

   BruceT
5. 
   sledgehammer | Mar 08, 2009 04:12am | #9

   Since you are going to be repainting the wall anyway, you may want to try removing the base and shimming the drywall first. If it works you'll save yourself days.

1. 
   brucet9 | Mar 08, 2009 06:04am | #10

   "Since you are going to be repainting the wall anyway, you may want to try removing the base and shimming the drywall first."How do you do that? BruceT

1. 
   sledgehammer | Mar 08, 2009 05:05pm | #11

   I'd start by removing the base which should reval all the bottom screws. Remove them and stick a prybar under the bottom edge to see if the sheetrock will flex to where you need it. Shim as needed, replace base... paint.

   Might work... might not, but I'd try it before feathering. 

6. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 08, 2009 05:26pm | #13

   For the amount of work you will need to do I 'might' be inclined to remove some sheetrock and remedy the framing.

   Whats on the other side of the wall?

    

1. 
   JHOLE | Mar 08, 2009 05:35pm | #14

   He says that the wall section is only about 6' wide..

   Would be interesting to know if there are outside corners at each end.

   Framing may not need "fixed" could be straight framing with bad bead job making the bow appear....?Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City

1. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 08, 2009 05:59pm | #15

   Framing may not need "fixed" could be straight framing with bad bead job making the bow appear....?

   Good call...............and I wonder how many other spots in the structure exhibit similiar conditions but it just is not as apparent. 

1. 
   Jebadia | Mar 08, 2009 06:29pm | #16

   Thanks for all the responses. I did not know you could not sand durabond. I won't be using it as my mudding will need sanding. I do like the idea of trying to shim the wall and will probably give it a shot.They are both outside corners. I have worked with the drywaller before and I have not had a problem with his work but anything is possible(poor bead work). As for the rest of the room I would have to take a look at it to see if there are other imperfections to corners. As I recall though there was not allot of mud used in the corners.Other side of the wall is a laundry closet.

1. 
   ruffmike | Mar 08, 2009 07:47pm | #19

    I can't believe this thread has gone this far. You could have floated an entire house around the base, sanded and painted it by now.

   Now you are talking about opening the wall up?

    By the way, in the ancient days of drywall past, the only hot mud made was Durabond. It is sandable, it's just not as soft as Easysand, hence the name.                            Mike

       Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

2. 
   KenHill3 | Mar 08, 2009 08:05pm | #20

   You're right. It IS sandable. Be a b!tch, tho.

3. 
   RustyNail | Mar 09, 2009 01:29am | #24

   As someone else already mentioned, a good thing to do with Durabond where you have to build up a thick coat is to tool it right as it's setting.  Done at just the right time with a putty knife, you can literally shave off ridges and high spots with a rigid putty knife.  Done too early, you pull chunks of compound, done too late it just gets harder and harder to do.   

   Or, even after it's set, you can wet it, let the moisture soak in for a couple of minutes, and do the same.  The moisture will soften up the Durabond enough to shave it with a putty knife.  This isn't a quick process, but isn't as dusty as sanding.

   This all helps save the aggravation and dust of the 60 or 80g sanding that you otherwise need to knock down a Durabond mess. 

4. 
   KenHill3 | Mar 09, 2009 03:41am | #25

   ".....a Durabond mess."I've had plenty of those in my time. :o)I've actually gotten fairly adept at using hot mud. I have been able to do entire jobs start to finish with hot mud. Not including texture. And only on repairs or single walls or limited areas.

5. 
   sledgehammer | Mar 08, 2009 08:22pm | #21

   "I can't believe this thread has gone this far. You could have floated an entire house around the base, sanded and painted it by now"

   In 24 hours? I want you workin for me... oh wait on second thought.....

6. 
   ruffmike | Mar 08, 2009 10:59pm | #22

   In 24 hours?

   Well, 1 hour to mask the base.  2 hours to float the first layer + 1dry.

   2 hours to do the second coat + dry

   2 hours to do the final coat.

   Go on Breaktime for the evening.

   1 hour sand in the morning. 3 hours paint and clean up.

    Since you are going to be repainting the wall anyway, you may want to try removing the base and shimming the drywall first. If it works you'll save yourself days.

   I'd start by removing the base which should reval all the bottom screws. Remove them and stick a prybar under the bottom edge to see if the sheetrock will flex to where you need it. Shim as needed, replace base... paint

   What is your time frame? How does one get shims behind drywall that is on the wall already? How many nails/ screws you gonna pop?

   You probably don't want me working around you, you'd probably get dizzy. ; ^ )                            Mike

       Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.

7. 
   sledgehammer | Mar 09, 2009 12:42am | #23

   Ah.... you said an ENTIRE house in less time. ;-)

2. 
   AitchKay | Mar 08, 2009 06:53pm | #17

   I don't get that. You either just mud it, or you mud it AFTER you've demoed it, shimmed it, re-hung the board and taped it.I'll just float the wall any time.AitchKay

1. 
   JHOLE | Mar 08, 2009 07:16pm | #18

   Shimming the dw away from the stud is just screamin' for naill pops too...Remodeling Contractor just on the other side of the Glass City