Replies

1. 
   Mongo | Mar 26, 2002 06:20pm | #1

   John, you're right...big questions with not too much space to answer...so I'll start off with this: Look into Michael Byrne's book on tiling. It's a decent source for proper procedures. Second, look on the Tile Council of America's website. The TCA site can be a maze at times, but there is good info there. You may also want to send away for their spec booklet.

   That said:

   1. "...best procedure to use to remove the old tile and mud floor?"  Honeslty, that depends. As you dig into your floor you;ll discover what techniques works best for demolishing what you have without ruining your decking. Usually, a tile or two needs to get whacked with a cold chisel, then you can pop the tiles off one-by-one with a chisel and mallet. Getting up the mudbed can be difficult. Again, simple brute force and tenacity can work, I've also seen mudbeds face cut with a diamond blade (dusty) then broken out in sections. It could simply be unreinfoced mud, or there could be wwm or diamond lathe embedded in it.
   2. "What should be done to the deck...New plywood? What size? Do I go right over existing floor deck?" Again, it depends on the condition of the deck that you uncover. If it's flimsy it may require complete removal to the floor joists and replacement. It it's in decent shape, a new underlayment may be all that is needed. If going down to the joists, usually 3/4" T&G ply is glued and screwed to the joists. Top that with 1/2" ply, screwed every 4-6" along the seams and 8" in the field. fill the seams. Top that with 1/2" cement board, thinsetted to the underlay and screwed to the ply underlay. Fill the seams. Then you're ready to tile. With the existing mud bed I'm guessing thickness of the new floor will not be a problem, but do your best to match what's outside of the bath for an easy transition. If you uncover a useable deck, then just start wiht the ply underlayment, but try to make it 3/4" ply as the underlayment and top that with the cement board.
   3. "For the walls in the shower area should I use 1/2" Durock?" I like ply over the studs to support the cement board. Many people don;t do that, they apply CB right over the studs. Regarless, run tar paper either over the studs or over the ply before you install the cb on the walls. I screw cb instead of nailing it. Tape and fill the semas. CB comes in various sizes...it depends on the manufacturer. Typically, 3' by 5' is predicatble. 
   4. " Do I complete the floor first and then start on the walls or vice versa? Is there any specific layout plan..." Some guys work the floor first, then the walls, some work walls then floors to prevent flor damage and to speed up the job. Depends on the size and scope of the job. Byrne's book will give you pictorals of how to find the centerline and lay out a room to minimize cutting, get a balanced layout, and avoid slivers of cut tiles at the edge of your patterns. Seriously, get the book.

   You're using large tiles so the work will go quickly. Will the large tiles be in scale in a small bath? With the larger tiles I'm assuming large grout lines, so use sanded grout. What's sanded grout? Get the book. Grout techniques? Get the book. Modifies admixes in the thinset? In the grout? Get the book. Consider some sort of ribbon across the wall, or a border on the floor to break up, or compliment the diamond pattern? Get the book. Have you considered adding an electric radiant mat under the tile, in the thinset?

   Remember, plan on a good floor height transition from the bath floor to whatever room is outside the bath. A marble tranision saddle will help disguise a small transition...but you don't want to be stubbing yout toes.

   "...but hey you guys are the best, right? Thank you for your time." Most guys here know that I'm actually a grocery bagger at a nearby store who hangs out on construction forums, but you're right...I am the best. I was awarded "Bagger of the Month" for February....so to be sure of what you're doing...

   Get the book.<g>

   Here's a link to Byrne's book: http://www.taunton.com/store/pages/070209.asp

   Regards, Mongo.

   ps, there's a special on avocados today.

                                                         

   
   

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   Edited 3/26/2002 11:52:32 AM ET by Mongo

1. 
   Tesaje | Mar 26, 2002 11:10pm | #4

   I found Brynes book to be great.  He explains the procedures in depth and most importantly explains why you do things so you can learn how to apply it to your situation.  You have enough basic questions that you need to fully understand what you have and how to to do the job before you jump in.  Having the thinset troweled on is not the time to realize you should have figured out how to cut and fit properly before you started.

   With it, I tiled several floors and a kitchen.  I sold the house to a couple whose family ran a tile business and it was a good enough job that they looked astounded when I confessed I did it myself and asked if I wanted a job.Mary

   Gardening and remodeling in Zone 6, MD

2. 
   jwalls10 | Mar 28, 2002 04:15am | #5

   Thanks so much for your insight. I do have a question. On the seams of the subfloor, what do I use to fill them?

                                              John

1. 
   Mongo | Mar 28, 2002 03:34pm | #6

   John,

   For a subfloor, what Pete said...I'd use T&G ply. No seams to fill.

2. 
   mikeyarnold | Mar 26, 2002 07:58pm | #2

   You definitely have to get and read the "Handbook for Ceramic Tile installation" from the TCA...  It's the bible, will address several of your questions, and only costs a couple of dollars.  It's definitely the best couple of dollars I've spent in a while.

   Besides, M Byrne seems to always revert to 2 major pieces of advice...  1) Follow the TCA guidelines, and 2) follow the manufacturers installation instructions.

   Good Luck.

   Mike

1. 
   akaCamiA | Mar 26, 2002 11:02pm | #3

   John, you might try searching the John Bridge Forum.View Imageup-north attitude...

3. 
   daveygwiz | Mar 28, 2002 05:39pm | #7

   I did a diamond layout in my first shower floor and found that a tile border set square with the shower walls lets you make adjustments so that the diamond arrangement comes out even and equal on all sides.  The border tiles get cut so that the diamonds are full or half tiles only.