Got a question about countertops and backsplashes.
We’re planning to replace our kitchen counter top, cabs, stove, and all of the backsplashes. The counter top is gonna be Corian. The backsplashes along the counter top will be the same material and about 3″ high. The backspash behind the stove is gonna be stainless steel, and will be 18″ high X 6′ long (under the upper cabs). The stainless will be fabed and mounted on either 1/4″ MDF or 1/2″ ply. Don’t know yet. The stainless/underlayment will be mounted to the sheetrock with construction adhesive.
After I install the cabs, would it be better to mount the stainless backsplash, then have the counter guys come in and measure for the top, or have the Corian installed and then install the stainless backsplash over the Corian. If it’s done after the stainless is installed, then the counter guys can install the backsplashes to the stainless. If it’s the other way, I’ll have to trim and mount the Corian myself, which is no big deal, but may affect the warranty.
Any suggestions?
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Wiley,
That's what I was thinking too. There really won't be a transition. There is a 3" Corian backsplash that will go over the stainless. This will run about 27" to the side of the stove, where it ends. All the Corian will be put on with silicone with the backsplash ends mitered at the corners. I wanted to end it at the wall, but I was over ruled by the boss (wife).
Thanks
tom, put the c/t with integral backsplash first, then measure for your stainless steel backsplash. you don't need to back it with anything! people always assume that. dry fit , dry fit, dry fit! when it is ready to go in, just dab 100% silicone at the corners and in lines across the field. apply hot melt glue to the corners and a few spots in the field, and press it on the wall. the hot melt serves as a clamp until the silicon cures. i've done about a dozen of them this way. no failures yet!
some people put screws in, but that's not necessary.
good luck
Rickey,
Thanks for the advice. My fabricator said that IF your sheetrock is nice and smooth then I wouldn't have to use an underlayment. Problem is that I've gotta pull a whole bunch of tile out of that area and it may ding up the rock. I can patch over that, then float the whole wall and it may be smooth enough. If not guess I'll go with the 1/4" and trim the exposed edge to the right of the stove.
What kind of hot glue and gun do you reccomend?
thanks tom, if you are so inclined, you could cut out the middle portion of the plaster (between the uppers and lowers) and replace it with drywall. if you can't fire tape the joints, seal it with a fire seal caulk. then you have a super smooth surface. floating sucks unless you reallllllly need to do it.
stanley makes an awesome professional hot glue gun, 10 or 15 bucks. good luck