Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 03:20am | #1

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   That's quite a span, but I think you can do it. Guessing that its a 3/4-in-thick countertop at 30-in. high, you'll need a continuous apron under the front edge. This means that there can't be any pencil drawers interupting the strength of the apron. I like a 26-in-high knee space, so with a 30-in-high countertop, the apron will have to to be 3 1/4-in. high and (depending on species) about 1 1/2-in. thick to prevent the countertop from sagging. The back will probably be fastened to a cleat on the wall (or have legs and a full height panel). If you're still worried about sagging, you might add a second apron, behind the one in the front.

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   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 04:59am | #2

   *1/4" Steel, welded at 90 degrees to some more 1/4" steel, which is screwed into the studs. Top with 3/4" ply.

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   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 05:34am | #3

   *Tex, I'd go with wall mounted supports spaced about 4 feet apart. Going longspan may be strong enough, but will have disconcerting deflection. You can design or buy "L" shape supports that shouldn't interfere with your client's rolling chair. Make her part of the design or selection process to make sure she'll accept the solution. Worst case you could have steel angle welded with a gusset plate at the joint for absolutely no chair interference, but hopefully she'll accept at least a short angled brace. Luck, Dave

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   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 09:59am | #4

   *I'd go with a welded support. Use 1.5 inch sq tubing. Flat stock is not even in the realm. Angle looks ugly. You can get plugs to finish the ends. Miter cut the ends, weld, grind, polish, have em powder coated. $40 material, $150 fab, $100 powdercoat. Couple hundred bucks if you pay someone else.You might consider mounting the vertical leg of the bracket behind the sheetrock. (I think this is OK w/ code) Lag or thru bolt to a 4x4 or sistered 2xs.Actually, this is kind of clean and nice for a commercial/office type application.Adam

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   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 03:30pm | #5

   *Tex, Is this counter going wall to wall or is it open onthe ends. If it is wall to wall steel across the front will work easily. If not the heavy steel L brackets will have to be used. Remove the sheetrock and bolt directly to studs. If she wants drawers you can use a combination of the two methods. Whatever you do I would face it off with a material that goes well with the decor.

2. 
   jimco | Oct 08, 1999 07:45pm | #6

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   A torsion box would also do the trick. These things are incredibly strong and stiff. Probably just depends on whether your cleint prefers the look of steel or wood.

   Good luck

   PS By the way, 17' is a hell of a desk. I'd NEVER find my checkbook!

3. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 08:17pm | #7

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   I've built counters similar to that and supported them with triangle shaped plywood braces covered with the same plam as the counter. I mill a 3/4" rabbet along the back vertical edge of the brace(s), screw a 3/4" square piece vetically to the stud(s), then screw the rabbeted brace to the piece on the wall. Simple, clean and you can do it yourself. - jb

1. 
   Guest_ | Oct 08, 1999 09:42pm | #8

   *If cost is an issue, don't forget the possibility of support from above. She may need continuous clearance for knees, but maybe you can suggest some "organizers" or other cabs concealing/acting as braces.All this steel makes me think $$$.

4. 
   John_of_All_Trades | Oct 09, 1999 07:05am | #9

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   I have constructed just such and animal for my office. While not as long, mine is 30" wide. For support, I used heavy duty steel brackets that I purchased at Home Depot. You can probably view an example at Rockler's web site(www.rockler.com) as part 99459. They provided clear sailing from one end to the other and allowed for the installation of pencil drawers, computer drawers, Keyboard drawers, Etc. Just add plenty of grommets through the top for wiring. If you have any questions about the design details, please let me know. Good luck. John

5. 
   Guest_ | Oct 09, 1999 09:14am | #10

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   I have used a rectangle tube 1" X 3" to support spans of 8'. I fasten it with glue & screws just behind the front edge build-up.

6. 
   Tex | Oct 12, 1999 05:18am | #11

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   Thanks for all of your ideas. The customer decided he liked John of all Trades idea about the brackets from Rockler. I wasn't aware that they have a 1000# rating per pair not to mention cheap and decent looking. Thanks John and everyone else. T

7. 
   Guest_ | Oct 12, 1999 06:00am | #12

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   So shouldn't JOAT win $5?

8. 
   Tommy_B | Oct 12, 1999 06:34am | #13

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   I think some of you are missing the obvious. Seems to me that this would be an ideal application for reverse polarity magnetic levitation or possibly some form of cold fusion.

   Keeping it simple,

   Tommy

9. 
   Tex | Oct 12, 1999 06:40am | #14

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   My customer wants a 17ft long by 2ft deep countertop attached to a straight wall to use as a desk. The catch is that she wants to be able to slide her chair from one end to the other freely with no major obstructions. Any ideas on a good way to attach without posts and still give a solid surface? Thanks. Tex

10. 
    Guest_ | Oct 12, 1999 06:40am | #15

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    Tex,

    I gotta go with a steel substrate. As posted, tubing is the way to go. The bigger the better.

    Ed. Williams