Hello BT Members! This is my first post, and I’d like to start by saying that you guys have inadvertently helped me with many problems I have had!
I am a young Canadian who has just started a journey into the huge industry of construction/renovation. I was taught by a “semi-retired” (works as hard and long as anyone) man, and now I have a great headstart in the business. I’ve taken on a few customers so far with decent success.
My last customer had many dreams for me to fulfill for her, like a custom wall unit(pic below). Midway to fulfilling these dreams, she was laid off from her job. Now, I am stuck with finishing off the jobs I started with a very low budget.
Now to my problem. I made an addition to a kitchen island. I had intended to order a new counterr for the whole thing, but now, that has become tossed because matching the colours would be difficult and expensive.
So, the addition part being in close proximity to the sink, would benefit from being cover in butcher-block material.
So my question is,
How do I properly finsh off the counter top to function as a butcherblock (not warp, leak, or rot), look good in co-ordination to the rest of the countertop, all in a low budget?
The original countertop is an average piece, with rounded corners. My first thought to finish it cost effectively would be to get a piece of maple 1 1/2″ thick to cover the entire area, and scribe the piece to the side of the countertop. However, purchasing material that thick of course comes in 12″ wide, thus I would have to connect two pieces together, causing a joint which would invariably leak (?).
Second thought was to use plywood and build the bottom up to match the top, and mitre the sides with a piece going down 1 1/2″ to create the facade of a thick piece. However, this would be very hard to finish, and the thought of plywood as a butcher block does not sit well with me.
As well, I am wondering if instead of butting the piece to the original countertop and leaving it, if a small piece of maple can be laid over the joint and siliconed to create a more linear look?
Thank you for your help!
Dave Baartman.
Here is a pic of the wall unit I made. It is primered at this point. It was built around the fireplace.
Edited 7/26/2007 3:40 pm ET by baartman
Edited 7/26/2007 3:40 pm ET by baartman
Replies
Welcome! Your wall unit looks great...I think you have a career cut out for you!
Is tile an option for the existing counter and the new section? You could set in a butcher block cutting board which could be removed for cleaning.
Thank you!I like your idea of the tiling. The area that will be covered is 18Wx36L. The amount of tiles would be small, and having two materials together would be complicated, which I'm afraid would be expensive (materials for installation; thinset, caulking, etc, plus labour). As well, the connection between them may look awkward? Any thoughts?
Thanks,
Dave.
Nice wall unit. Do you have a picture of the sink? And can you reduce your picture size to under 200k?
What about getting some 3/4" baltic birch ply, rip it into 2" strips, and do a glue up to whatever sioze you need. then plane/sand it smooth and finish appropriately. All the veneers laid side by side could look pretty sharp.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
"What about getting some 3/4" baltic birch ply, rip it into 2" strips, and do a glue up to whatever sioze you need. "How would I edge it? Would it leak through the joints?
Thanks!
It is self-edging. After you glue up a countetop blank 2" thick x 24" deep x length as needed, you treat is like a piece of solid lumber. Rout a roundover on the front edges. Use a waterproof glue like resorcinol, and seal it well."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
would the glue from the ply leak into the food when they use it? How would I match it to the rounded existing countertop? I dont have a bandsaw, and a freehand jigsaw would take a long time, and the blade would surely bend. Would a solid wood do the job, as you suggested, maybe if I use a dark colour alternating with maple to create the same effect? Thanks for your input, FastEddie!
Once the resorcinol is cured, and the counter is sealed, it would not present a problem. I don't understand the Q about blending it to the existing counter. Solid wood would work, just like a butcherblock slab. But with the baltic birch ply, you get dimensional stability and the added effect of a thousand plys ... if you like that look."Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I don't know what the exact layout is, but could you make the addition either higher or lower and allow one to overlap the other? That would help prevent leaks. The other idea I had would be to attach it like you would attach two parts of a counter at a miter--with bolts in pockets. As far as finish, either mineral oil or Behlen's salad bowl finish would be good.
Grizzly sells solid maple workbench tops pretty reasonably. The largest is 30" wide and 10' long. They look sort of like butcher block, but they're made of shorter pieces of maple, so there are joints in the strips. That still might work for you if the length is adequate.
Go to http://www.grizzly.com and search for "counter top".
If you do decide to join two top sections, rout out a spline groove in both sections. Make a stopped groove, so that the spline won't be visible. Then glue the two together with a good waterproof glue. My preference is West System epoxy.