Replies

1. 
   calvin | Mar 09, 2010 05:50pm | #1

   I would either do the top up myself or hire it out from a countertop installer.  I never use or install preformed counters (with rolled splash/front edge).    What are the dimensions of both angles of this L-shaped counter?

1. 
   AK_refugee | Mar 09, 2010 07:17pm | #2

   The top I am currently planning to use is a simple square-edge top (not rolled; no integral backsplash). The countertop will be standard width; the right leg of the corner is 7 feet (ending at a wall), the left leg will extend about 6 feet to the range (these dimesions are to the toe of what would be the miter).

   I suppose if I laminated it myself I could cut the entire corner out of a 4x8 sheet of particleboard as one piece and do away with the corner joint entirely, but with these dimensions I would still need a seam somewhere in those 2 legs.

1. 
   calvin | Mar 09, 2010 07:27pm | #3

   With laminate, looks like to dictate where the seam would fall.  To some, the sink dictates where the seam is located (anywhere but).

   The substrate shouldn't be a problem-you could get around the corner easy-filling in the other short leg.  I never take the lam and put it close to seams in the sub.

    I've done a couple corner sinks and in those there wasn't much of a seam (quite a bit to the back going into the corner) showing.  With the rest of the layout, that's where I ran the seam, right down the middle of the sink to point of corner.  I've been back to two over the years and no problems as a result of the seam location.

   Moreso a danger around the sink  (if you fit the seam good) is the cutout itself.  I seal all exposed edges of the substrate with an elastomeric caulk.  Forever flexible and forever (?) sealed.   Sealant under the sink whether drop in cast or clampdown SS.  Never had a problem.

      I guess I'd run the seam as a mitre  right smack dab in the middle to the point of corner.

   Do your sinks layout across that line at all?

1. 
   AK_refugee | Mar 09, 2010 08:00pm | #4

   Thanks for the input. That makes sense...put the joint in the substrate off to the side as far as the sheet will take it...then put the seam in the lam right down the middle. I have to admit I've never done my own layup like that, you must have to be mighty careful making that miter. Do you know if there is any laminate wider than 4' out there?

   The sink has an apron that connects the two bowls and would straddle the line.

1. 
   calvin | Mar 09, 2010 08:07pm | #5

   You can get up to 5ft-1inch wide by 12 ft long.

   Yes, a long mitre is not easy in the lam, but cutting both sheets at once (with a lam. trimmer-and a seaming bit /guide if you can get one) is the way to go........

   or, cut one, layout that line on the next sheet and then cut that.  File to fit.

   Slight backcut on the file job.

   register the pcs together with pencil marks across both when in perfect position.

   reregister those marks on the substrate for the pc you will glue first.

   Get it RIGHT to those lines, then glue up the other and place it exactly RIGHT............

   Boom boom, rout the perimeter, slide it back into place and fasten.

   Call the plumber...................oh yeah, seal the cuts for the sink, then call the plumber.

   Best of luck.

2. 
   DanH | Mar 09, 2010 08:47pm | #6

   As Calvin suggests, a seam should not fall within 12-18" of a sink.

1. 
   calvin | Mar 09, 2010 09:01pm | #7

   Dan, tho I might suggest it, I don't do it very often.  The sink cutout gives you a couple inches of seam on the surface-flanked by over 6 ft of open core underneath.

   If layout doesn't permit a logical location away from the sink I would still let it happen there and not worry.

   And now that I know about RedGuard (the tile waterproofer) I might just check on it's compatibility with lam and glue and use that under the seam.

   A line on the top just plain looks bad even when good.