Countertop question here, help is appreciated for ideas.
I measured a womans countertop to be 25 1/2 deep (front to back). I went to my CT vendor, gave them my measurements to get new tops made for the woman. She wanted the Postform Ultra edging where there is a small “bump” at the CT edge to contain minor spills. Apparently this is only available in 25″ depths. The vendor didn’t tell me this. Now they’re short by 1/2″ and that 1/2″ is actually needed because without it what I have is a CT edge that is just a little bit BEHIND the drawer face. It looks dumb.
This Postform Ultra profile comes with a backsplash and the laminate is put on to bend to the CT starting at the BS top and conforming to the CT profile to the front of the CT, all without any joints. I can’t take the BS off in other words and move it back. I can’t just pull the CT forward to get the right overhang without causing a huge gap in the back at the BS. Or can I?
Is there some crafty idea out there where someone else has had this problem and came up with a way to remedy it?
Replies
Trim detail on top of backsplash to hide gap? If you were not informed and they made the top anyhow at least you shouldn't have to eat it.
Trim detail.....like a strip or something? What do you think might look nice? The cabinet doors have a wood Oak-ish strip on them. the rest of the cab doors are smooth cream colored laminate.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
It could be something as simple as a piece of painted/stained 1x4 material about 1/2" to 3/4" above the splash. Think of it as a reveal or a shadow line.
Either that or take out your router and start experimenting.
Hope it helps.
How about a decorative strip of 1/2 or 3/4 added to the BS before install? This would push the CT out enough to suitably work. Another option is to add tile to the wall before install and bump the CT to that.
Neither cold, nor darkness will deter good people from hastening to the dreadful place to quench the flame. They do it not for the sake of reward or fame; but they have a reward in themselves, and they love one another.
-Benjamin Franklin
You know I have to say, I've never seen a decorative strip on top of a CT backsplash. Have you? I"m just wondering what it might look like. Any ideas where I might find a pic or two of such an animal? It sounds like it may be a good idea, but I can't see it in my minds eye yet, would love to see where this was done before if you know.
If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
First thing that came to mind. I'm picturing the same material as the cabs, just flat stock flush with the top of the BS. The moulding idea works as well. I picture a 3/4 cove or 1/4 round or shoe moulding. The flat stock would make things less "cluttered" at the BS area, if that's an issue.
Sorry, but no pictures to show, only in my head.Neither cold, nor darkness will deter good people from hastening to the dreadful place to quench the flame. They do it not for the sake of reward or fame; but they have a reward in themselves, and they love one another.
-Benjamin Franklin
Someone dropped the dog. I suspect both you and the 'shop'..FU'd
Template, template , and template again..you got a Post formed top..you dropped the project by not specifiying a custom top.
Looks like lunch from here.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
There is no cure for stupid. R. White.
The way I read it, he did measure correctly. The countertop shop didnt tell him that they only make the post form in 25" not the 25.5" he needed.
Wall outta plumb and the base cabs are packed out?
If the Op has cab showing the top FF, the top aint down or lapping the base cabs,,which means the cabs are fat or the backs are away from the wall, or he didn't template for a custom fit.
Pick a dilly poison, both scenarios kinda blow.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
There is no cure for stupid. R. White.
pick up the short by making a filler or trim piece and putting it on the back of the backslpash...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If it were me, i would make a narrow shelf where the backsplash meets the wall - it's a great place for the spice jars. I did mine on purpose, but i see no reason this can't be turned into a happy accident. <G>
really thick tile backsplash.
I think filler would look like the duct tape and bailing wire fix.
If you did measure and specify correct and they just didn't bother to read the measurements, its their bust. And worth arguing about at that point.
"Sometimes when I consider what tremendous consequences come from little things, I am tempted to think -- there are no little things" - Bruce Barton
I don't know what the wall behind the countertop is like, so I'm just shooting from the hip. . . . how about a second sheet of drywall back behind the countertop? If it's a short wall and below some upper cabinets, it's just one strip of sheetrock, and it's invisible. Doesn't look like you're trying to hide anything.
zak
"so it goes"
zak stole my idea. S/R the wall again.
Or tile the entire backsplash wall first.
http://grungefm.com
Good idea. Funny, its so simple. I would have spent hours figuring out what kind of trim to make.
What about by the window though? I guess you could cap the extra DW at the same height as the bottom of the top cabs. That would look okay.
Kitchen cabinets are a standard 24" deep. Postform counters are also a standard size. They don't make them at your local CT shop in custom width sizes. Shops buy them by the foot and cut to your needed length. It would be rather simple to add a 3/4" round molding to cover the gap at the backsplash. This is also used sometimes when a wall is very wavy. Another more expensive option is to use something, tile?, to cover the area between uppers and lowers. The latest trend in countertops is a back compartmentalized shelf system. Instead of a backsplash, it's a continuous series of storage bins. Gets the clutter off the counters.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
"The latest trend in countertops is a back compartmentalized shelf system. Instead of a backsplash, it's a continuous series of storage bins. Gets the clutter off the counters."
Hammer, do you have any info on this idea? DW likes the thought of it. Do you have any companys that offer it??
Ward
This is a new item and it is custom only, as far as I know. Any custom fabricator could make something similar in a variety of materials.http://www.hgtv.com/hgtv/shows_hiwtk/resource/0,2756,HGTV_24976_53180,00.htmlBeat it to fit / Paint it to match
good stuff...thanks Hammer
Put a layer of 1/2"rock on the wall.
Add the S/R above, or can you rip out the S/R behind the cabinet so it slides back 1/2" into the wall? Then you won't have to mess with the window. Assuming that you can still meet code without S/R behind the cabinet...
Billy
A fabricator can make a countertop whatever width and length you want.
Two ways, easiest is to add a scribe strip to the backsplash. Have the counter top shop give you a narrow strip to glue on. Use yellow glue instead of contact cement.Easier to postion a narrow fragile piece, Keep the strip 1/16" below the top of backsplash.If you attempt to keep it flush it will be difficult to hide seam.
Next way,depending on variables in this kitchen. Sheetrock from the base cabinet up. You will have to determine if this is viable,if adding rock means removing door and window trim and rocking a long wall, first option would be best.
mike
I can't rock the walls the cabs are on w/out rocking the entire wall. You'd see the edge of the DW. Picture a long wall about 25' long. The cabs only take up a third of the wall, rest is the dining room.
Ilike the laminated strip suggestion. I like it a LOT. If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
You've never actually stated what the wall treatment above the backsplash is, or will be.
If you are stuck with the existing flat? wall surface then you are stuck with some sort of filler piece. If the wall is not flat then you are obligated to scribe the countertop to the wall, thereby sacrificing some more of the precious front overhang.
Anything that YOU attach to the back of the splash is going to look suspiciously like what it is - a filler. Any treatment that involves a stick of cove to cover the curve in the splash is going to look like a sorry coverup.
If you like the idea of a buildup on the back of the splash I would recommend taking the countertops back to the fabricator and letting him do the filler application. Unless you are truely competent and have the tools it would be better and more likely that the fabricator can match the plam and glue up a piece with an invisible seam. You can then scribe the filler to the wall.
If the wall treatment above the splash could include tile, as someone has already mentioned, then another layer of rock as a buildout would work with a radius bullnose tile covering the exposed end of the new rock.
Another option is to have a plam covered piece attached to the entire wall. This has the benefit of a complete wrap of the buildup substrate, an easy to clean surface and an assortment of facings that can mimic straight paint or fancy metal.
Anything you do to make this right is going to take a little off your bottom line and add time to the job.
Start selling a tile job or you can do something like this, similar finish as the oak trim on the door.
All of these helpful responses would be great....If this problem were in your own kitchen. Unfortunately you are presumably a professional performing a service for a reasonable fee. I've heard it said that you can't be a good carpenter unless you learn to cover up your mistakes. That is partially true, but the end product should still be a professional job without any noticeable mistakes or "fixes". You owe it to your client and yourself to do the job absolutely right.
That being said, it sounds like you may be able to work this out without eating all the cost. Try talking to the supplier to see if they (or you) have legitimate record of you ordering a 25 1/2" top. Possibly there is an issue with the cabinets that can be worked out with the homeowner, because like some one else said stock cabinets should be 24". Even the worst case scenario may not be terrible, where I come from that preformed top is the cheapest thing you can buy 16-18 dollars per foot.
Just do the right thing and you will NEVER regret it.
Josh
I'm all for doing the RIGHT thing. It's what I want to be known for.
My record of the CT being 25 1/2" is my sketch I took of the CT when I measured it. When I make such sketches with measurements I take it to the CT shop where they translate it into the work order.
Yes this is a pro installation for a fair price, $2K to be exact. The tops cost me only $450. If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Update: I went over today to measure the cabs and the new CT. The CT is definitely 25", the base cabs are....24". Why there is no sufficient overhang is beyond me.
This job involves 2 CTs. The one installed on Friday is a 25"x18" top. I measured the cabinet today at 24" deep and the CT is definitely 25" deep. To me there should be an overhang yet when you look at it there clearly is not. The edge of the CT is pretty much a 1/16" BEHIND the front of the drawer panel.
The second CT is an L-shaped top measuruing 36"x 121". This CT is truly 25" deep. I measured the cabinets today that form this L-shaped area for the top. The cabs were 24". I was measuring the end cab, that way I could see the drawer panel and how far out 25" came. In this case according to my tape, there SHOULD be a 1/4" overhang PAST the drawer panel, which to me is reasonable. That would indicate to me that come Monday morning when we install the new top that it should come out fine and maybe there was something wrong with that small cab that the small top is installed on. But I doubt it since I did measure that cab at 24" deep. It's the craziest thing I ever saw. It's like you'd swear your measuring tape was lying to you or something.
WW
Just curious, are the cabinets in line with each other, Meaning if you put a strait edge on the front of the cabinets would they be strait? Same for the wall?
I assume you have 24" cabinets with overlay doors/drawers. Counting the thickness of the door/drawer fronts and the bumper space that will make 7/8", meaning that your overhang at best will be 1/8"
For all that to happen your cabinets better be strait on the front and your back wall better be parallel with that front edge of the cabinets, meaning that your best case for overhang is 1/8", which may or may not be satisfactory to you/your customer.
Doug
This job involves 2 CTs. The one installed on Friday is a 25"x18" top. Sounds to me like you have one small base cab sticking out too far and the rest of the kitchen will be ok?If so I would cut out the drywall where the base meets the wall and slide it back a bit rather than do a micky mouse fix where everyone can see it......a rule of thumb as old as the hills: if you have to do a fix it has to look as if it were in the initial plan........little pieces of round and wierd trim placement always says loud and clear....HACK JOB! PS...learn how to make your own tops then you only have one person in the goof-up loop.
Blind allegiance FOR ANY REASON is the greatest ignorance we can bestow upon ourselves.
You may have full overlay drawers, the cabinet is 24", the drawer or door is 3/4"+ .
This can be the reason you do not get the overhang you want. By the way, I measured a top I put in a few years ago for my son.This top is preformed ,Home Depot plastic laminate.The top is 25 1/2", not sure why the shop you dealt with couldn't do the same.Sounds like they were in error and put it on you.
mike
Cut the top 3/4" of the BS off leaving about 3" with a square top. Take a 1 X 2 piece of maple or oak (stain, and finish to match the cabs) laid on the flat. Run a 1/4 " round over bit on front/top and front/botton of it. Butt the square back of the 1x2 to the wall, pull the counter out to you desired overhang, nail the 1x2 to the top of the BS, and you now have a 1 1/2" wide "mini plate rail" for photos, decorative tiles, etc.
PS. Mitre the corners.....looks cool.
Used this detail once to finish a 1 course tumbled marble tile BS that was 4" high and 5/8" thk.