I am getting on toward the end of a 3-year-plus project of building my own house. I am getting ready to set the toilets, install the sinks, etc., and have run into something that I am not sure of the best way to handle. When the plumber roughed in the CPVC water line to one of the toilets, he didn’t allow for the fact that the wall behind the toilet had to be furred out an additional couple of inches. (The wall was shown on the plans as a 2 x 6 wall, but the framers framed it 2 x 4.) Anyway, as it now stands, there is only about 7/16 of an inch from the back of the cap that was glued onto the water line for the pressure testing to the face of the finish wall. I am afraid that when I cut the cap off, I will not have room to install the chrome trim bezel between the angle stop and the wall. If I try to extend the CPVC pipe by gluing on a coupling and a short piece of pipe, then the trim bezel won’t fit over the coupling, as its inside diameter is made to fit the pipe, not a coupling. I’m sure someone out there runs into this situation every day, and there must be a neat way to handle it, but I haven’t come up with any real good ideas myself as yet. So, any suggestions would be welcome.
The second question is to ask whether it is good practice, or even allowable, to use angle stops with compression ring connectors to install on CPVC plastic pipe. I have been advised that it works fine, but the quy giving the advice had on an orange apron, so I am a little suspicious. I had assumed that glue-on angle stops would be required. Are compression ring fittings O.K. on CPVC pipe? Thanks for any input.
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When I first read the Subject, I thought you were installing plumbing in a Cupola. Hence my interest...Dang it...wasn't it!
But since I read it now, I'll give my input...
Can you extend the CPVC pipe stub with a union and then look for the eschuecton (OK, so I have no idea how to spell the fancy name for the chrome trim piece) that would then fit tightly over the union? Remember CPVC outside dimensions are the same as copper but different than standard PVC so you may have to "buy and try" a few eschuectons but hey, they're cheap.
OR...(I had the same exact problem as you) do as I did and find a "deep" eschuecton that would cover the union. I had to look long and hard for one but after two days of riding around my area I found one. Now realize, I'm really obsessive but I also built my own place and after 2.5 years of doing it, wasn't going to live with a sloppy plumbing trim out...even though you can only see it by getting down on the floor and looking under and behind the toilet bowl...
Finally, get the shut off valves that glue onto the CPVC and then the rest is assembled via threaded connections. Gluing in my opinion, is the best method for making this connection. Realize, I'm not a plumber but did mine this way 3 years ago and haven't had any problems yet. Now of course, one is probably breaking off right now in my house while I'm at work and attempting to flood my home but my FloLogic with go to work and shut off the H20 automatically!
Good luck with this. I know what you're going through as the little details can be the biggest headache...
Mike
Edited 12/16/2004 12:07 pm ET by Mike
There are escutcheons that are hinged in order to go around pipes already sweated in place. In a worst case maybe you can file the opening in one larger to accomodate the increased diameter of the coupling...