Good day All,
I am wanting to cover an old ugly brick fireplace…here is my plan…want to know if this is a sound idea.
Fireplace is loopsided…that is to say the firebox is center on the exterior wall with 1 foot to the right before it ends where the exterior door begins. But to the left the fireplace is approx. 7 feet. There is a long hearth that runs the full length of the fireplace…approx 13 feet. And of course the bricks go from the floor to the ceiling where the beginning of the cathedral ceiling begins.
Thus my idea to modernize the fireplace is as follows:
1. Install vertical Z channel from the far left to approx 1 foot from the fire box. The minimum Z channel I can get is 1″…thus if I use 1/2″ sheetrock my final thickness is approx 1 1/2″ from the original brick face. The new sheetrock then gives the appearence of being originally tied into the left wall and ceiling and can be painted to match the walls and transition as though original.
2. Then around the firebox and to the ceiling I intend on using two sheets of backerboard. One atop the other giving a thickness from the brick face of 1″. Then with 3/8″ notch towel which should give a final thinset thickness of 3/16″ plus the 3/8″ glass tile I end up with a thickness from the brick face of approx 1 1/2″, same as the sheetrock.
3. Face the entire hearth which is approx. 18″ from the floor with sheetrock, thinset and tapcon’d to the brick, finish and paint coloring to match wall.
4. Then top the hearth with thinset and 1/4″ backboard to achieve flat surface and cover 7/8″ granite the entire 13 feet of the hearth top.
My major concern (which may be unfounded) is with using two 1/2 backerboard one atop the other..does anyone see this as an issue? I would anchor the first backerboard as normal and then use longer TapCon’s to anchor the second sheet above the first and into the brick joints as required.
My overall goal is to have the sheetrock to glass tile transition be as flush as possible.
Thanks in advance for any responses/feedback.
Danny
Replies
Danny
I would guess this would work.
I might use "L-bead" for the edge of drywall transition, gives a straight finished edge to butt the tile up against. While plastic is usual for L bead, you might find it in metal if concerned about the plastic-tho I don't think heat will be a worry with it.
Use thinset to bed the second to first layer of backer.
What will your edgework be at the opening of the fireplace?
Currently the firebox has a fitted brass/gold color door with fire screen...I had planned using a new fitted brushed nickel to replace it...thus edge work would be just something fire resistant and will accept the new door/fire screen. May not need any edge work if the door insert edges extends far enough into the firebox opening.
Again my main objective is to have the drywall and tile transition as flush as possible...and yes I did intend on using an edge piece covering the sheetrock at the transition area for that straight-edge to the tile.
Danny
OK
Then L bead would work well, Install after tile right up to the edge of the tile if it helps with your layout-that'll give you the opportunity of not having to cut any along the perimeter.
or
do it the other way.around.
If you use the tearaway L, you'll not have a problem mudding up to the tile-tearway afterwards.
Have a good time.