Replies

1. 
   Novy | Dec 05, 2002 09:02pm | #1

   I have had good luck with autobody filler

   On An Island By The SEA
1. 
   bill_1010 | Dec 05, 2002 11:37pm | #2

   yeap bondo works well its a polyster resin used in auto body work.

2. 
   Ragnar17 | Dec 06, 2002 02:05am | #3

   Bobl,

   Where exactly are you using the MDF?  Cabinet cases, shelves, doors....?

   I've used MDF extensively for interior trim, but it has no bending strength whatsoever.  

   Is anyone else concerned about this, or is it my turn to be too concerned?  ;)

   Ragnar

1. 
   bobl | Dec 06, 2002 02:51am | #4

   cabinet cases and doors.  haven't decided about shelves.

   one cabinet is roughly 50" wide, 30" high, and 12" deep (long MDF shelves concern me)the other is ~85" high, 16-24" wide and 24" deep (pull out pantry so haven't decided about the door)

   We're working on the kitchen, painting cabinets etc

   using confirmat screws and painting cabinets with Shrouders(sp)

   bobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

   Edited 12/5/2002 6:52:44 PM ET by bobl

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Dec 06, 2002 03:05am | #7

   Like I said, I'd be concerned about using MDF.  I think it's a great choice for interior trim, but it's just too heavy and too flexible for anything that requires structural integrity (in my opinion, at least).   Why not use a faced plywood (used for signs, etc), or shop birch?  Both paint well, and are much stronger than MDF, as well as lighter.

   Ragnar

1. 
   bobl | Dec 06, 2002 03:16am | #8

   I picked MDF because of the number of posts here or knots about folks using MDF for cabinets.bobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Dec 06, 2002 05:23am | #10

   Bobl,

   I'll have to plead ignorance: I haven't heard of anyone recommending the use of MDF for cabinets before.  But it might be a regional thing. 

   So, for the purposes of my continuing education, what are - in your opinion - the advantages of using MDF? 

2. 
   bobl | Dec 06, 2002 07:02am | #14

   ragnar,

   I believe Novy answered your question about MDF

   I planned on using it because folks here have used it, I'm painting, and I believe its less expensive.  regarding the last reason.  Price is a consideration but not a driver.  For example I bought the confirmat screws and the confirmat bit especially for this.  Also the paint I'm using is $75/euro gallonbobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

2. 
   Novy | Dec 06, 2002 05:53am | #13

   MDF was developed for paint grade cabinet type work. Its structural integrity is more than adequate if it is used in its intended enviroment.

   Faced ply ( Used for signs, etc. ) was developed for use in signmaking where it excells. It is prohibitively expensive and unapropriate for other than its intended exterior application. The edges of plywood are much more difficult and time consuming to finish to a cabinet grade standard.On An Island By The SEA

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Dec 06, 2002 09:25am | #19

   Novy,

   My experience with MDF is just about solely for use as trim. 

   That's interesting that it was developed for cabinet use.  I could see possibly using it on small boxes, but I'd expect anything with a significant width to bend and sag just like particle board in the 1970s.  That's not saying that it wouldn't be structurally "adequate", but I guess that depends on what a person will accept as "adequate."  What's your experience with sag and deformation when used in "normal" sized boxes (say, 36" wide x 12" or 24" deep)?

   Ragnar

2. 
   Novy | Dec 06, 2002 05:30am | #11

   Who said anything about bending ?On An Island By The SEA

3. 
   gordsco | Dec 06, 2002 09:41am | #20

   I cap the MDF shelves with 1X2 aspen or poplar

   Works okay

   Gordsco

1. 
   Ragnar17 | Dec 06, 2002 09:53am | #21

   Do you apply the 1x2 in the same plane as the MDF shelf, or 90° to it, so that it kind of acts like a mini-joist?

1. 
   gordsco | Dec 06, 2002 10:28am | #22

   Same plane, for strength, I round over the edges of the 1X2 with 1/4 radius bit. Maximun span 5/8" MDF shelf, 55" anything longer than that gets a metal or MDF angle brace or a gable. I've also been selling the idea of shelving units on longer span closets. Walk-Ins get numerous banks of shelves or drawer units. Up here its either MDF or wire.

   Gordsco

3. 
   MisterT | Dec 06, 2002 02:55am | #5

   You could use 3/4" cabinet grade hardwood plywood.

   It would cover the screw holes and the mdf all at once.

   :)

   Mr T

   Do not try this at home!

   I am a trained professional!

1. 
   bobl | Dec 06, 2002 03:00am | #6

   Mr T,

   can I use drywall screws from the inside to fasten the 3/4 ply? which screws are best the narrow threads or the wide threads, I assume the 1 1/2" ones shoud be used, if I can't find 1 1/2" can I cut the ends of 2" screws? or are nails better?bobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

1. 
   MisterT | Dec 06, 2002 04:11am | #9

   Bobble,

   use 2-1/2" screws and bend 'em over  so they hold better.

   Don't use drywall screws on cabs the are brittle and will break when you try to bend 'em.

   TDo not try this at home!

   I am a trained professional!

2. 
   Novy | Dec 06, 2002 05:36am | #12

   Never use drywall screws in cabinetwork. No shear strength !

   The wide thread is designed for particleboards but often needs some fussy pilot boring.

   Nails suck with particleboards unless they are pneumatic.On An Island By The SEA

1. 
   bobl | Dec 06, 2002 07:04am | #15

   Novy 7,

   I assummed Mr T was pulling my chain so I was playing along those lines in using DW screws.

   I'm using McFeely's cabinet screws for hanging a cabinet

   bobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet

   Edited 12/5/2002 11:06:28 PM ET by bobl

1. 
   Novy | Dec 06, 2002 07:09am | #16

   Bobl,

    Personally I hate MDF but it does have its place .On An Island By The SEA

2. 
   MisterT | Dec 06, 2002 02:01pm | #23

   Personally I hate MDF but it does have its place .

   On An Island By The SEA

    

   Novy!

    

   You Got It!!!

   Thats what we should do with MDF.

   send to a remote is land and let it compost back to dirt!

   Your a Genius!

    

   Mr TDo not try this at home!

   I am a trained professional!

4. 
   DougU | Dec 06, 2002 07:19am | #17

   Bobl

   Even though I'm not a fan of MDF(so damn heavy) we build some very high end kitchen and bath cabinets and we use MDF, cant beat it for painted finish, also great for architectual details such as sq. columns and wainscoting just to mention a few.

   Doug

5. 
   noone51 | Dec 06, 2002 07:33am | #18

   bobl, based on your original post soley... I would recomend either body filler or epoxy. I have used both with MDF and they work fine. The trick that some others have eluded to is to use a screw that won't back out on you over time. If that occurs then you wil have a mounded patch or worse a screw head that shows. The trick to that is to simply use a good screw... Yes coarse drywall screws will work.. but coat the screw with simple carpenters glue before you drive them in. This will bond the screw and keep it from becoming an eyesore later.

   By the way, there's nothing wrong with MDF cabinets either.

1. 
   bobl | Dec 06, 2002 06:47pm | #24

   no one,

   I'm planning on using confirmat screws for the body.

   I thought MrT was puling my chain about cover MDF with 3/4 ply, so I went into the DW screw routinebobl          Volo Non Voleo      Joe's cheat sheet