What to cover the outside of wood foundation with (above ground)?
Last summer we added onto our old farmhouse. The old house has cement block foundation. The new addition has wood foundation. I haven’t been able to come up with an idea of what to cover the new ofundation with above grade that is attractive, durable, and will match (at least sort of) the old foundation.
All my contractor has suggeted is (ugly) plastic brick material. How about stucco? The wood foundation is covered by Tu-Tuf plastic, so I am not sure what might stick to it.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Edited 4/2/2002 11:14:47 AM ET by Jim
Replies
I have used a hardiplank (or was it some other cement board company?) that comes with an embossed stucco surface. Set in on a beveled 2x6 ledger slightly above grade. Spaced panels 1/8 inch, calked and painted. Up three years, no problems so far. Good luck.
I placed Hardiepanels right up against my wood wall and nailed them off above grade, letting them extend below grade to be held there by the soil, so you don't have nails penetrating the plastic. Two winters now with no degradation of the panel bottoms whatsoever.
Jim,
First off, I'd get that tu-tuff covered up so you don't have tears in it. We usually put up a strip of 1/2" ply or 1x (treated, of course) nailed at the top and extending just under grade to hold the bottom so you don't have nail penetrations in the tu-tuff.
How about if you put a mortar parget over both the new wood foundation and the existing foundation? I don't know exactly how well it would stick to the wood, but it would dress everything up and tie it together nicely.
Just a thought,
-Sawdaddy
Nail Durarock up and trowel Thoroseal with mesh tape on the joints and a brush coat over the rest.
Terry
As for the hardiplank type products extending below grade, try avoiding this as the stuff wicks water like mad.
Like these fiber cement building blocks for foundations?
http://www.buildinggreen.com/products/faswall.html
OK, then, let me put it another way: Why is moisture in the FC a problem?
Also, long term exposure to such dampness will also cause the fiber and cement bonding to break down and flake apart. Kind of like beaver-board siding (pressed fiber siding)
Sorry, Pete, it doesn't help me. You see, i've had the FC in the ground for two winters with absolutely no mold or flaking.
FC is nothing at all like pressed fiber siding in regard to its performance in the presence of water. There have been some problems with FC roofing products, granted, but it's not analogous to this situation.
I'll get back to you on the paint after this summer.
"The area bet the wall and the siding"
...is a waterproof membrane, pretty much guaranteed not to mold.
Jim'
US brick makes or used to make a system consisting of 1" foam banel with a plastic molded facing that 1/2" brickettes fit tightly into. You nailed up the foam sheets with special cap nails, glue in the brickettes with their adhesive, then apply a modified mortar with a grout bag. You could use this down to grade, although I don't think you would want to run below grade. We used this a couple jobs back about 10-12 years ago. It's held up great. Looks exactly like a full brick wall.
For stucco, nail up galvanized mesh to your plywood over your plastic, apply a good heavy scratch coat for your base, then a finish coat. Seal it with an elastomeric paint product from a masonry supply co. I'm currently looking at a new stucco system for applying over wood sheathing I heard about on this forum. It's made by Sealcote. If you're interested , E-mail me and I'll get you more info.
Bish
Thanks for our tip. Yes, please pass on your information about the new product.
Jim
[email protected]
I e-mailed this address to Jim but if anyone else is interested here it is.
http://www.sealoflex.com/products/prod_coraflex.htm
This is a modified stucco type system. I have'nt used it yet myself, just now checking it out.
Bish
Pete, i confess. I called the Cemplank people first before i did what i did to see if they could give me the go-ahead on that app and the rep said sure. I like the Cemplank product a bit better than Hardie's, but when it came time to buy, it got a screaming deal ($18/sheet) on the last of a bunk of Hardiepanel at the lumberyard and so i used that instead (two sheets left over for the dog palace). If it delams i will let you know, Scout's honor.
One of the reasons i like the Cemplank product better is that they've answered all my questions without waffling. And their patterns are better, both wood and stucco. My questions to the Hardie people end in "Y/N" eventually, but they don't seem to do to well with "why?".
I'm not sure about the paint blistering, either, but if it doesn't work, i'll use one of the acrylic stucco finishes instead.
Well, we beat this one within an inch of its life, didn't we?
Yer breakin' my heart, young man...
The History of Fibro Cement
Pete, stop it yer killin' me man!
Edited 4/9/2002 9:28:02 PM ET by Svenny
Things are going good, still would like to get together with you for lunch one of these days, I never doubted that any of those things are true!
John