Just touching base to confirm my suspicion:
I have some drywall/plaster inside corners that are cracked up the middle the corner. Do I need to scrape out the loose and then retape the corners (paper tape/dry-type joint compound)? Or is there an even easier fix?
Also, a couple of vertical cracks at the top of door openings that I think are primarily due to P.O.’s bad joint finishing (Looks like fiber mesh tape). Do I wcrape that out and cover with more tape, or is there an easier fix?
Thanks for any advice!
Replies
Sounds like some drying and settling. Yep, you'll have to scrape and tear out anything in the corners that's loose, then retape.
The vertical cracks over the doors are probably the fault of the drywall guys...if the cracks are in line with the edge of the door.
Good drywall technique is to "flag" door openings, that means run the top board over the opening, joining only in the middle.
The reason behind this is to avoid cracks which result from repeated door closing and/or slamming. The vibration goes straight up the jamb, effecting any taped joint above it.
Well, short of tearing out the drywall and starting over, is there anything I can do about the over-the-door cracking? Yes, the drywaller ran a whole sheet up each side of the door jamb and then patched in a short piece over the door. How about set-type compound?
I've been a pro drywaller but I'm only a long-time novice taper. My best answer is to retape that joint, bedding the tape in plenty of mud, followed by two good coats.
After it drys and before painting, give the door a couple of average slams, to see if it holds alright. I suspect that it'll be O.K.
I also suspect that someone who's a real taper will come along with a better solution for that problem.
If the crack has any width at all (like you could insert a dollar bill), then filling it with a setting compound (like Durabond) will help to prevent future cracking. After that dries, I would use an adhesive repair tape and spackle over it to hide the edge of the tape.
I don't think it matters what kind of compound you use over the repair tape because no combination of compound/tape is going to hold the house together if the crack is caused by settling or seasonal movement. That's something I often find myself telling my customers who expect a permanent repair on recurring cracks.
The repair tape I use (I can't find it online, but I buy it at my local paint store) has a little bit of stretch to it and resists subsequent cracking, but only if the movement in the drywall is very, very slight.
Yes, the inside corners will need to be retaped - best way to do this right would be to pull the old tape off. sometimes you can grab the end that is hidden near the floor (behind the baseboard trim). Once the old tape is off, ease the sharp joint compound edges that get left behind, then bed some new tape followed by two finish coats. make sure to prime the corner before re-painting. Setting compound isn't necessary for strength, but it will set up faster if you want to get it done sooner.
Same goes for over the door. Rip off old tape, cut the crack into a "V" shape, screw it with 1-1/4" screws on both sides of the crack and then tape, followed by two finish coats.
Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Same goes for over the door. Rip off old tape, cut the crack into a "V" shape
I can't agree with you on cutting into the drywall. If I understood correctly, there's a tapered joint there now, so enough depth for mud and tape. Cutting the paper and gypsum will only compomise what's holding it now.
oh I see...my mistake. I was reading it as a crack in the drywall, not a cracked seam. You are correct...don't cut a V if the crack is already on a seam.Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Your error has been duly noted and will be brought up at the monthly staff meeting as an example of your malfeasance.
;-)
I've already started packing up my desk...Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Naw, you're in for the long haul, now that you're a celebrated video host.
I was hoping that they would let me off the hook on those videos...wait until you see the next round. It's going to take some serious editing to make sense out of the jumbles coming from my mouth!Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
Actually, I've yet to see any of them but I'm looking forward to it. Should give me some more ammo for these occasional exchanges. ;-)
The cracks, as far as I can tell, are all at joints and seams. The drywall itself is holding firm.
I'm not trying to contradict what anyone is saying, but I have some input.
I've seen inside corners crack due to excessive paint drying out. Probably due to someone using a sprayer and loading up the corners. I don't know if this is the case with your or not, but look into it. Also, it could be that the mud on top of the tape is cracking off for what ever reason, but the tape in the corner is fine. It may just need re-coating after removal of the loose stuff.
Also, I was told by my structural engineer that the crack that run vertical from the top corners of the door are from the header expanding and contracting at a different rate than the surrounding framing. The vibration from closing the door seem much more logical to me, but I was told never to question someone with letters after their name.