FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Crawl space dehumidifiers

trekka | Posted in General Discussion on October 24, 2009 12:33pm

Has any one used a dehumidifier in the crawlspce to prevent mold issues?  Do any of you paint the joists and underside of the subfloor?  This is a standard concrete stemwall foundation with black tar on the outside, 6 mil plastic over a dirt floor, the  required foundation vents and fiberglass unfaced batt insulation.  Any favorite brands that operate at low temperatures and are semi portable?  What about using it during drywalling (which will be in the winter on this project)?  Thanks.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. barmil | Oct 24, 2009 10:51pm | #1

    Do you actually have mold, or do you just think you might in the future? What you've just described sounds normal and not a harbinger of mold. Dehumidifiers are merely a form of air conditioner, and they don't operate well at lower temps, like 50 degrees or less, so I wouldn't expect good performance during the winter much above the Mason Dixon Line.

  2. 6bag | Oct 24, 2009 11:01pm | #2

    a 2" concrete slush coat in the crawl will go a long way to reduces the humidity.  make sure you have a 1' over lap on any seems in the poly.  is the dirt in the crawl wet?  if it is you may consider a internal drain tile and sump pit.

    1. trekka | Oct 25, 2009 11:58am | #3

      It was bone dry until it rained 4 inches in two days. Now it is damp but not wet under the plastic in a couple of areas.    No mold issues, I just want to keep it that way.  I have read different opinions on sealing up foundation vents to prevent high humidity air from coming into the crawl area from outside the house.  Any comments on this? 

      1. User avater
        rjw | Oct 25, 2009 02:34pm | #4

        >>I have read different opinions on sealing up foundation vents to prevent high humidity air from coming into the crawl area from outside the house. Any comments on this? It depends to some extent on your location/climate, and whether you can send some conditioned air into the crawl.Check out the building science corp web site.On the firs question, it doesn't sound like you have moisture issues if you just got some under the vapor barrier after 4" of rain.fwiw; I do home inspections in NW Ohio

        "Man's capacity for justice makes democracy possible, but man's inclination to injustice makes democracy necessary." Reinhold Neihburh: 'The Children of Light and the Children of Darkness'http://rjw-progressive.blogspot.com/

      2. Dogmeat12 | Oct 26, 2009 03:25am | #6

        I have a crawlspaceunder my summer home with a plastic vapor barrier and four inches of concrete. I found that leaving the crawlspace vents open in the summer allowed moist humid air to enter and condense on floor joist and floor insulation. I sealed all vents and put in a dehumidifier set at 2 (out of a high of ten) and drained it to the outside. I turn it on in May and turn it off in late September. No problems, everything is nice and dry with no musty smell. I might add that the house has no central AC so I can't condition the space.

      3. andy_engel | Oct 26, 2009 08:36pm | #7

        If you run a dehumidifier with the crawlspace vents open, you're essentially trying to dehumidify North America.Andy

        "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein (or maybe Mark Twain)

        "Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom

        "Everything not forbidden is compulsory." T.H. White, The Once and Future King

        1. trekka | Oct 28, 2009 10:11am | #8

          I will fill them in with foam blocks.  All the nearby rental places carry the Dri Eaze 1200 dehumidifier- about 80 lbs.  I will try one out and decide if it is a worthwhile investment.  Any one have a favorite brand of humidity guage?.   I may use some left over decking/ fence paint to coat the underside of the ply subfloor.  I will of course be putting tar paper on top of it before the wood floor goes down but a little paint on the underside might help to keep the moisture content down.

          1. andy_engel | Oct 28, 2009 05:00pm | #13

            You should check out the National Wood Flooring Manufacturers web site for specific moisture content info before installing a wood floor over any questionable crawlspace. And you might want to use a better vapor retarder than tar paper - Bostik makes several, including a trowel on membrane and more traditional ones on a roll. The trouble with tarpaper is that the perm rating isn't necessarily consistent. In most installations, it'll probably work, but over crawlspaces I'd err on the side of caution. Moisture, btw, is the number one cause of wood flooring failure.,Andy

            "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein (or maybe Mark Twain)

            "Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom

            "Everything not forbidden is compulsory." T.H. White, The Once and Future King

          2. User avater
            BillHartmann | Oct 29, 2009 08:49pm | #19

            They used to have lots of good info on their web site. Basic, but full installation manuals. But they have since split it into a consumer and pro side and you have to be a member (or possibly cash buy, don't remember) to access the info.BTW, I used the idea of using spacers to hold the ledger board off the house from an article in your mag "Don't Build Decks that Rot". In fact I used many of the ideas, but those I had already designed into before I saw the article..
            William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

        2. DanH | Oct 28, 2009 02:38pm | #9

          I was going to say trying to empty the ocean with a teaspoon, but same difference. Even with vents closed it's something of a fool's errand. Better to set up a fan to draw in outside air.
          A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

          Edited 10/28/2009 7:40 am by DanH

          1. Dogmeat12 | Oct 28, 2009 03:23pm | #11

            How does bringing in warm moist air into a cool basement with a fan  help? All you will get is more condensation. Even with only a plastic vapor barrier on the dirt floor and sealed vents it will be easy to run a dehumidifier and dry out the crawlspace. You would only need to do it in the summer months.

          2. DanH | Oct 28, 2009 07:40pm | #14

            Like I said, depends on the climate. Generally the outside air is much drier than the air in the crawl, since the crawl is getting moisture from the ground below. It's all in the dewpoints.
            A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

          3. Dogmeat12 | Oct 28, 2009 09:31pm | #15

            No doubt there will be some moisture from the ground depending on how well his vapor barrier is installed but if the oustside air is warm and moist like it is here in the Mid-Atlantic states in summer and you are bringing that hot moist air into a cool crawlspace  you are going to get moisture condensating on the walls, floor joiost, and insulation. Think of a glass of ice tea in the summer time.

          4. DanH | Oct 29, 2009 01:41am | #16

            IIRC, we never got any info from the OP on his location or climate. Here in the midwest dewpoints are rarely above 60 and remain below 50 (often very far below) for most of the year. Yet the humidity in an unventilated dirt-floored crawl will be near 100% much of the time, and the temp in the crawl is, I would guess, generally about 10 degrees above the outside dewpoint most of the time. So around here I don't think you'd lose, on average, by ventilating. (At least not until the pipes freeze.)
            A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

          5. trekka | Oct 29, 2009 01:01pm | #17

            Thank you for all the responses and the comments re the wood floor.   The sub floor and joists are fir ply/fir 2x10's and are currently fine.  I just want to keep them that way.  The house is on the water in the pacific northwest.  We are talking lots of rain and fog.   Current outside humidity is 87 percent with showers and a dew point of 37 degrees.  41 degrees air temp. (Per weather service).  I will get my own humidity meter soon but expect the humidity to be much higher outside the crawl than in it.  That is how it feels at least when one sits in the crawl next to the open foundation vents, but before I do anything I will get some numbers.  The crawl space is not wet but the dirt under the plastic is damp in a couple of places.  The lot is fairly flat, the septic guy thinks the soil has reasonable drainage - I would say average.  There is a foundation drain but no curtain drain.  I use this term to mean the foundation drain is near the footing, wereas a curtain drain would be several feet further away and extend deeper than the bottom of the foundation footings.    

          6. DanH | Oct 29, 2009 03:27pm | #18

            Unfortunately, I can't find a graph of dewpoint over time for the NW coastal region, to know what your range is. It sounds like your crawl is reasonably dry, but assessments like "average drainage" are highly dependent on locality and personal experience.Keep in mind that when comparing humidity between inside and out you must compare dew points, not relative humidity. So you need to measure temperature when you measure humidity. (And most humidity meters are crummy -- try to find one that's halfway accurate.)
            A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

          7. User avater
            BillHartmann | Oct 29, 2009 09:13pm | #20

            "Here in the midwest dewpoints are rarely above 60 "Define "midwest"?BTW, you aren't in the midwest. The term has been corrupted, but orginally it was the the states that where been settled in the early 1800's. Many of the veterans or their families from the Revolutionary War.You are in a Plains State, Upper Plains state, And believe me the central plains states had dewpoints above 60. And with the cool ground it is easy to get conditions where the moisture level is well above 80%66F with a 60F dew point gives you 80% RH, mold city. And with a typical AC installation is is not hard to get 66, in fact that is reachable even without AC..
            William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

          8. DanH | Oct 30, 2009 01:45am | #21

            Whatever you say. IMO, in most of the country you're better off ventilating the crawl than trying to dehumidify it. Certainly cheaper.
            A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

          9. Dogmeat12 | Oct 30, 2009 01:51am | #22

            in most of the country you're better off ventilating the crawl than trying to dehumidify it.

            IMHO you are incorrect. I still can't see how bringing warm moist air into a cool crawlspace is going to lessen the humidity in that crawlspace. But anyway like you said " IMO".

          10. DanH | Oct 30, 2009 01:57am | #23

            Note that I wasn't pretending to be humble. ;)
            A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

      4. DanH | Oct 28, 2009 02:43pm | #10

        Where do you live? (Hint: Fill in your profile.) Unless you live in the humid south the dewpoint of the outside air is lower than inside the house most of the year.
        A strong nation, like a strong person, can afford to be gentle, firm, thoughtful, and restrained. It can afford to extend a helping hand to others. It's a weak nation, like a weak person, that must behave with bluster and boasting and rashness and other signs of insecurity. --Jimmy Carter

  3. renosteinke | Oct 25, 2009 07:45pm | #5

    I have seen a different arrangement used to address the same issue.

    Namely, fresh air is let into one side of the crawl space and removed at the opposite end, with the fan controlled by a humidistat.

  4. User avater
    Matt | Oct 28, 2009 04:02pm | #12

    An important pre-rec of a sealed (unvented to the exterior) CS is that it is bone dry.  If you think you may have moisture infiltration issues, they must be dealt with first.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans

Hover's smartphone app offers an easier way to get precise 3D scans.

Featured Video

A Modern California Home Wrapped in Rockwool Insulation for Energy Efficiency and Fire Resistance

The designer and builder of the 2018 Fine Homebuilding House detail why they chose mineral-wool batts and high-density boards for all of their insulation needs.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 686: Brick Steps, Ground-Source Heat Pumps, and Greenhouses in Nova Scotia
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Efficient HVAC for a New Build
  • Affordable Scans, Accurate Plans
  • FHB Summit 2025 — Design, Build, Business

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work
  • Issue 328 - Dec/Jan 2024
    • How a Pro Replaces Columns
    • Passive House 3.0
    • Tool Test: Compact Line Lasers
  • Issue 327 - November 2024
    • Repairing Damaged Walls and Ceilings
    • Plumbing Protection
    • Talking Shop

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data