Hi,
I have a brick house with crawl space. There are 3 pieces of 2×4’s framing the space.. I think it’s probably original to the house. The wood is starting to rot, so I need to replace it. I would like to use PVC trim – 2 2×2’s glued together to make a pvc 2×4. And then a pvc door
I know this is probably a stupid question, but will the pvc work or are those 2×4’s holding something up? I don’t think the pvc is as strong as wood, but I can’t tell. I would hate for my house to fall over.
Thanks for you help,
Shawn
Replies
Shawn
Holding anything up?
probably not, but it's no way possible to see from here.
i assume the entry to your crawl is outside. Is this correct?
can you post a picture or 2?
PVC is not as strong as wood....it's used as a non-structural trim material. You would not have success trying to attach the door hinges to it and hanging a door off of it. Also, making a door entirely out of PVC not a good idea either....you could clad a wood door with it.
I seriously doubt a wood 2x4 is acting as a lintel for your brick crawl space opening. Most likely the 2x4 is the jamb material for access door. You can buy 2x PVC material from Versatex if you like. However 5/4" jamb stock with PVC brickmould or 1x flatstock would be fine.
I replaced a crawl space door on one of my rental properties with one made from PVC five years ago. I simply made a 5/4" rail and stile door (Festool Dominos with Sippos for loose mortise & tenon joinery) with a 3/8" PVC recess panel glued in a backside rabbet.. I used a stainless steel piano hinge w/ SS screws. It took about an hour to make and hang in an existing openingIt's a great choice of material for this kind of job. Mine looks as good today as the day I put it in.
PVC Door
Rails and stiles solid PVC?
Yep
Fully braced frame with the 3/8" panel secured to 5/4 r&s's. Racking not an issue.
PVC, being a thermoreactive material, moves as an entire unit with temperature changes. Moisture changes not an issue.
Remember Jimmie, we're talking about a door to a crawl space (approx. 24"x30") not to a carriage house.
Thank You. That's good to know that it's doable. I wanted to make a similar door but was hesitant to go all PVC, I was just going to add a PVC panel to the exterior side for the weather and make the rest out of wood.
YOu can do that too.
We've applied that very same concept to a 7' tall garden shed. The only thing wood on this exterior elevation ARE the railes and stiles of the doors. Everything else, including the recessed end panels are PVC. This shed is made to be portable. You can disassemble it in about 10 min and move it as components. The "flat" roof is a stone tiled shower pan with aluminum parapet counter flashing.
I want to do that
What species/dimensions did you use for the rails and stiles?
Jimmie,
Send me a P.M. . This way I can best get you the information you need for this project.
i would double up two 1x4's instead of putting two 2x2's together. like calvin said, a picture would help but more than likely its just framing out the openning.
photo and more info
Hi all,
Thanks so much for your answers. I am sorry it's taken me so long to get back but it was raining yesterday.
I really like PVC boards and trim. It's easy to work with and no rot or termites. Anyway, I was planning to make the door like this: https://www.finehomebuilding.com/how-to/articles/different-approach-frame-panel-door.aspx?nterms=61648 for practice to make workshop doors.
Also, creatures will generally not gnaw on the PVC.
I do see the point in putting 2 1x4's. I am attaching a picture to make absolutely sure this isn't holding anything up but based on your comments, I don't think it is. Better safe than sorry.
Thanks,
Shawn
If you inspect closely there should be a piece of steel spanning the top of the opening. Sometimes it's just a flat plate, other times a piece of angle iron.
There should be SOME sort of lintel any time you have a brick opening more than about 3 bricks wide.
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