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*Do the compression type fittings used with cross-linked polyethylene pipe (PEX) hold up well? Is the PEX system an improvement over copper for residential water lines?
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Yes, and yes. You'll never get a plumber to admit to your second question, though, because PEX installation doesn't require any special skills beyond the basics. I'll never sweat a copper joint or glue up another PVC joint again if I can avoid it. Wirsbo's ProPEX system is my preference, as it relies on the tubing's "memory" to make the connections.
PEX makes it easy to use a central manifold for water control. It's also easier to tie hydronic heating to hot water service.
You also have zero corrosion with PEX, and it doesn't leach anything into the water.
*I've got a couple questions about PEX that maybe someone can ansmer. 1) What kind of hanger spacing requirements are there? Do the additional hangers negate time savings? 2) Someone suggested that mice may like to chew on the pipe. Is there any truth to that? 3) In areas where you can see it, does it look like c**p? 4) How do you stabilize it where it comes through the wall? (where toilet connection is made, for instance).Thanks for your thoughts, JohnK
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First a message to Jon - this plumber WILL admit to the advantages of PEX. If I could use it for all my potable water piping I would.
Now to JohnK's questions. Hanger spacing for PEX is 32" max. The additional hangers don't negate the time savings. Have never heard of mice liking it. When installing in areas where you can see it, it depends on how much care you take. I've seen lots of copper that looked like c**p, too, and some of it was installed by so-called plumbers. If you are really concerned, Wirsbo makes a sheath-like hanger that actually covers the PEX and keeps it looking straighter. There is a mounting elbow that the PEX goes into to keep it fixed where it comes out of the wall for fixture supplies.
*"If I could use it for all my potable water piping I would." Why can't you?Rich Beckman
*Its not approved in all jurisdictions. I can't even use if for hydronic in mine.
*Most of the homebuilders around here aren't convinced that there could be a material better than copper. They spec copper and don't want to consider alternates. They still consider anything 'plastic' to be a sub-standard job - at least for potable water. That goes for home buyers as well. There is a lot of educating that needs to be done. WI code does allow the use of PEX for both heating and potable water, however, Bill is correct in stating some jurisdictions don't approve it at all.Folks are slow to accept new materials in lots of areas of the building trade - engineered lumber is another example. I used corrugated stainless steel tubing (CSST) for the gas piping on a water heater replacement recently in a Milwaukee suburb and the inspector told me mine was the first use of it he had seen.
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Allaround,
Thanks for the answers. How about the Manobloc installation? Do you think it really adds anything worthwile? It seems like it might make sense in a small home where there aren't any long runs, but I don't see the advantage in a more spread out job. Thanks, JohnK
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Am wondering what prices people are paying for
PEX. I have material from radiantec.com showing
.46 for 1/2". (.58 w/ oxygen barrier, which they
seem to suggest isn't really an issue.)
Jim
*Southern CT, both 1/2 and 5/8" PEX with O2 barrier are around 62-68 cents. Depends on qty.If it's going through a cast iron boiler, my heating guys always advise the O2 barrier.I've tried corresponding with Radiantec over the years and haven't been impressed. My opinion. They're still going strong so someone is buying from them, but I just never got that good vibe to send them money.
*For the most part, the Manabloc method does away with the scalding or freezing that sometimes happens when someone flushes a toilet or uses a large volume of hot water when someone else is showering. It has the additional advantage of being able to shut off the water supply to individual fixtures from a central point. My policy, whether PEX or copper is to size the piping correctly and install only pressure balancing tub/shower faucets. Then you can do a "standard" installation if you want without worrying about major temperature changes when you draw water from multiple faucets.
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Lowes has USBrass QuestPEX for 25.00 for 100ft. Its 1/2 180 deg. 100psi. Not sure that type would work for hydronics. I would like to heat my basement floor. Is 4" of sand or gravel better, with a moisture barrier, 1" of foam board; which type any suggestions?
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*Do the compression type fittings used with cross-linked polyethylene pipe (PEX) hold up well? Is the PEX system an improvement over copper for residential water lines?