I was watching all the videos on cutting crown Molding. No one recommends cutting on the flat with a compound cut.
My experience with crown is it is easier and less confusing on the flat. You do not have to change the saw at all. Face down or face up to do inside or out side corners.
Granted, Some profiles have to be cut Upside Down, But for the most part, Most don’t.
Discover a concrete-free foundation option that doesn't require any digging.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
Whatever works for you is best. That stuff can be perplexing.
I wouldn't trust the face down to lie perfectly flat. Perhaps on some, but I do many many different profiles of crown and cutting with just one setting would be impossible. It would also cancel out my view of where I measure from on the crown face when I do copes.
I've been doing it upside down for too long. I have jigs & fences I've made for this and my muscle memory is too used to it at this point and besides, it works too well for me to want to change.
But.....to each his own and I say to any and all if you want to give it a try, then go to. Whatever works best.
One nevuh knows do one?
"If it's milk & honey to some,
it's poison ivy to somebody else." Will Rodgers
I cut upside down if I can. But, sometimes with large crown you have to cut on flat.
I find it easier to understand adjustments to the cut when it's upside down.
On the flat can work well for paint grade, production trim... not what I deal with most of the time.
If there's something going on in your brain that allows you the vision to cut perfect miters every time on the flat then, by all means, go with it.
If those miters are not perfect every time, maybe try upside down awhile.
DC
If it works for you, don't change.
I prefer the upside down method, largely because I was taught that way, and can visualize it very well. I also have crown stops on my miter saws to keep the moulding in the correct position as I cut.
I have cut larger crowns on the flat, but like the other way better.
When cutting on the flat, do you have any issues with the angle?
I have 2 issues with my saw, which isn't a very good one and is not a slider. For one thing, it's hard to set the bevel angle because of the small scale and it's also hard to cut a perfect 90 when the bevel is set to 45. I can "correct" it by tweaking the miter angle and even though we're talking about much less than 1 degree, it shouldn't be necessary.
The reason I ask is because I'm considering a new miter saw. I really like the new Makita dual bevel 4-rail 10 inch saw, but it won't cut tall baseboard (over 4-3/4") standing up. That means it would be necessary to cut it on the flat. That would be ok if the issues that I have with my current saw are specific to my saw and not issues with cutting on the flat in general.
It depends on how much large crown you do and how sold you are on the Makita saw. I have the DW 12" 718 slider and I like it because (as I mentioned in another post), it's lighter and more compact but does the same job as all the others. It cuts about 6.5" high board standing against the fence.
Curious... what are the issues you have with your present saw?
It's a Craftsman 12" single bevel non-slider. It actually does a pretty good job on crown using the jigs I made and it cross-cuts fine, but when I make cross-cut bevels it's hard to set the bevel accurately because of the small scale and it doesn't cut at a perfect 90 unless I tweak the miter angle.
There are a lot of different types and sizes of crown, some man made materials, some softwood, some hardwood, some raw, some prefinished. I'll go upside down whenever possible. Much less strain on the saw, no pinching, easier to see your marks, no hair from the blade. Some big crown just won't fit under the saw, then it's on the flat. Really big crown, the 18" and larger, has to be cut with handsaws. There's no, one answer.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
The reason that flat cutting is not recommended is upside down and backwards is easier and in my opinion more accurate. I cut flat when the crown is too wide to cut any other way. Although there is another way that us old timers remember,hand cut with a wood custom built miterbox. We had two types, one type of miterbox was just a simple but large miter box with two 45° and a 90°. The other had the same but the sides could be slid in to narrow the saw cut. Usually used a 10 point handsaw or if possible a 6x30 backsaw. This saw is limited because of the top rib.
mike
"I cut flat when the crown is too wide to cut any other way. Although there is another way that us old timers remember,hand cut with a wood custom built miterbox."Thought I took a picture of the miterbox I made for this but I guess not. I dismantled it after the job was done because it took up too much room.
With all our fancy ways & machines, hand tools are often overlooked. I've used the site made miterbox many times. If you have a good eye, a sharp saw (I like the Japanese saws), a freshly honed block plane, and a speed square, many times that's all you need.
I'm another proponent of the "nested method". I can really go to town with my crown jigs. Upside-down and backwards is not "backwards" at all. <g>
I need to make my own video some time.
I prefer the upside down and backwards method, crown stops, 12" saw.
Like others have said -- whatever works for you -- keep doing it.
Jim
I do it both ways, on the flat for painted or unfinished stain grade and standing up for prefinished kitchen & bath trim. I just find this works better for me, I can't say why.
Often in error but NEVER in doubt!
A good answer would be that each method has its place and it would be best to know how and when to use them.Sometimes trim is just to big for your saw, answer is cut on the flat. Sometimes to don't have a stop or don't want to make one, answer is cut on the flat.Cutting on the flat does have a draw back and it's that most of the time the trim is a bit cupped and it will not lay flat, kinda screwy for something you are trying to cut on the flat ;-) Also sometimes you have to cut on the face side of the trim and the trims profile prevents the trim from laying flat. . . there's the screwy thing again.
View Image
http://www.josephfusco.org
http://www.constructionforumsonline.com