I’m wondering if anyone can tell me how to cut crown on a 22.5 degree by laying the crown flat on the bed of the mitre saw? I already know about the 31.6 mitre and 33.9 bevel for 45 degree cuts. I hope I explained this clearly – let me know if not. Thanks!
glen
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Replies
http://www.compoundmiter.com
Its all Good!
Delta woodworking used to have an excellent web page... Anyone know where that is anymore? - I think they changed the location of it.
Glen, do you still have your owners manual for your saw?
I think mine had a conversion chart in it. Ill see if I can find it, but if you have yours its a possibility.
-zen
Yeah, I tried to find a chart for mine (Bosch) but none was found. I did check the Makita and they seemed to only have the 31.6 and 33.9 degree info. Thanks tho!
glen
Would it make sense that the 22.5 would be half of each of the 30s used for the 45 degree?
-zen
It don't work that way. What DOES work is cut a pc. the "old way" upside down and back wards...
lay the pc flat and adjust to it..mark the scales for future ref.
Even with a new 12" slider, I still cut the old way mostly.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
Me too. 12" Ridgid. A line drawn on the table and one on the fence. I saw an article where someone hot-metl-glued a strip to the table to put the crown against.
That's the way I do it---works like a charm---I take one cut piece , save it with the numbers on the back and throw it in a bin in the van ,When I come up against a lay out I dig out the box and Voila I usually have the answer in my "Library"Nice to see I am not the only one.Mike
I agree in any instal of reasonable size it is much faster to set up a jig to hold the crown at the right spring angle and cut it upsidedown and backwards. Even if you memorize all the compound angles for 90s 45s 22.5s etc how do you fine tune to account for mud build up or out of square. Most charts that come with saws or that are posted on sites don't have much in the way of half or quarter degree adjustments and if your not going to be that accurate why even bother.
Yup..I have seen corners so whacked, I shim the crown up with a pencil..LOL.
The hard ones make the easy ones SOOOO much easier.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
If your cutting your crown in the upsidedown standing method , then you can adjust for out of square , or mud built up corners by rolling the crown to mimick the actual condition at the wall. I would not recomend this however because any deviation from true cuts will only cause a host of new problems to deal with.
Sphere has the answer.
Stand the crown on your miter saw as if the backstop is the wall and the base is the ceiling. Miter the crown at 22.5º and then lay it flat to adjust your saw to the cut you just made. Once you have the bevel (tilt) adjusted to the correct angle, you will not need to move it, leave it locked. You get your right and left cuts by swinging the base to the same opposite angle and flipping the crown.
when i do crown iv got a peice of 4x4 riped at a 45 with a lip. years ago compound miter saws cost alot more that single miter. i got used to it now its too late for me. besides i think its faster. i get some strange looks now tho.
I bet ya do get looks when it's not a 45 degree crown.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Sell your cleverness, Purchase Bewilderment"...Rumi
LOL
If you have the height ,cut the crown upright. Go to the JLC Online Forums, search for Gary Katz crown molding installation.
mike
I was going to reply ...
but appearantly I have no clue!
just measure and add 5 inches ...
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Now this sounds like a perfect excuse to buy a new tool (like we really need one).
Bosch Digital Miter Finder. Calculates the miter and bevel settings for you.
Scuff it up a little, Chuck the box , and when the wife asks, just say" this old thing, I've had it forever."
Not that I have ever done that.
even though you've probably solved this problem the old fashioned way, I thought I'd comment.
I have a Bosch "miter finder" and it's the greatest tool.
first -- judging from the degrees you use for a 45 degree cut, I guess you're using a crown with a 38 degree "spring". so, according to my high tech unit here, you need to set your miter on 14.3 and your bevel on 17.6 -- that should turn a corner of 135 degrees nicely. ( the nice thing about this tool is that every corner could be off by a degree or two and it'll hook you up with the appropriate settings regardless.)
worth a try,
Pete
Hey, thanks for the info. I will give it a try and let you know how I did.
glen