I’m putting up crown molding (4-5/8″) for a customer and have a question. I’ll be dealing with “open” ends and I’m looking for some ideas for terminating them.
Neither the home owner nor I really like the typical “return” which looks a little like an arrow. In other jobs, I’ve cut the “open” end of the crown square and filled the end with a small triangle of MDF. When it’s filled and sanded, it looks like the crown is solid.
Anyone have any other “tricks” for open ends? Maybe some pictures?
Thanks
Replies
Generally, we miter the ends back. You can make it a simple 45 or use any combination of cuts. There are a couple of choices in the picture. There are some people who don't like mitered returns but they are the traditional way to stop a molding.
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Morning, Hammer -
That double miter looks interesting - not quite as "pointy" - lol. I'll mock it up and see what the customer thinks.
Hammer, I like the look of the double mitre on the one return. How did you hold them together, glue or pinned or both.
Whenever I have to do small returns (like the one on this double miter), I use contact cement. I apply 2 thin coats to each piece before assembling allowing the glue to dry between coats. 2 coats works better than 1 because the glue is easily absorbed into the end grain.
I've also used wood glue, but of course that requires clamping and waiting for the glue to dry and I just don't have enough clamps.
-Don
Try a hot glue gun next time. Sets within a second or two and is permanent. Watch your fingers though, burns like hell! ;-)
Sta-Put spray adhesive is good, too.
Ron
careful...
the over spray can work into open grain and leave a film behind that will make staining a problem...
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Hi Scott.
I'll tell you my mitered return secret if you don't tell anyone. Devcon Weldit all purpose adhesive. Apply generously, push together, hold a minute, voila'.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
hammer: where did you buy Devcon Weldit ?.. i've never seen itMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Hi Mike, The Devcon is available at most any hardware store, there are some others that are very similar, almost like model glue, which might work. You can peel off the excess squeeze out with your fingers, once it has set up. Only takes a few minutes to set. I was very leery about it standing up for long without a pin but I have quite a few jobs that have lasted more than five years. I wouldn't use it for anything too large or structural but its easy for the light weight stuff. There are some isocyanurates(sp?) that you can use an accelerator on but end grain is so porous it's difficult to get a strong bond. These are very expensive and you can stick your fingers. I put a healthy amount of Weldit on one piece, push the pieces together and spread it around, open up and then just press together. It holds almost immediately. The manufacturer recommends a prime coat of Weldit, but I'm a rebel. Yellow glue and others sometimes will make the small return warp, because of the water. No water in the Devcon. If I can align the pieces nicely and press hard, there isn't a glue line. So far it hasn't damaged any finishes but I'm careful about being too messy. You can also move it a little or pull it open and start over, and it's waterproof. Great for crown returns over exterior windows.Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Thanks, I will have to try it, I have lots of mitres to do in our kitchen with several returns.
That's a right nice little display hammer - do you use that as a visual for pitching jobs to the customer?Justin Fink - FHB Editorial
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I had a job a few years ago, Justin. I thought it was a piece of cake. Just a single chair rail in a dining room and adjoining kitchen, couple hour job. There were three uncased openings that I had to stop at. I made a nice mitered return at each stop, left the bill on the counter, mission accomplished. That was until the lady of the house called crying. "How come you didn't cut the molding even with the opening?" I thought to myself, any hack can do that. After redoing that job, I filled a box with all kinds of samples of moldings, joints, and options of fitting. I thoroughly explain exactly what a mitered return, dado, lock joint, etc. is, and have a sample to show. It actually works some of the time!Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
it's always a revelation to me about how other people have a completely different vision of what is going to be built
nothing like a little show & tell to prevent those misunderstandingsMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Sorry I don't have pictures but I've used what I call 'termination blocks' to let the crown die into. Whatever style your crown, a built up block which stands proud of the crown profile 1/4" or so can do the trick. I once did a room for a musician and carved the treble and cleft designs on the blocks where the crown terminated and it looked pretty cool.
Definitely do some head scratching and figure out how to do the mitered returns - They look a lot better...
I do crown every two or three years so I have to re-learn it every time - My last attempt was an open area in a new house with floor to ceiling openings (lots of terminations) and a bowed projection (non-90 degree angles - ughhh). We were able to figure it out and get an excellant result - and I'm just an architect!
My buddy is literally a brain surgeon - If you want a good laugh or at least a good punch line - you should see the thought process of a brain surgeon and an architect figuring out crown molding... too funny.
We learned very quickly to keep a set of "templates" for the various cuts (inside 90, outside 90, inside 135, etc...) and that made setting up the saw a lot quicker.
Good luck
Sorry - just re-read the OP and realized this is not what they wanted anyway... Still proud of our work though.
Edited 8/22/2006 4:30 pm ET by KevinH
Ugh.....drywall returned windows.
Nice job on the crown though.
Paul
sorry man but that would'nt fly around here. I'd expect a little better from an archy
Believe me - I was none too thrilled about some of the details on that gig... What can I say - I have to work with what's there. Nothing worse than a big new house with drywall window returns, open arches, and no trim in sight... Not one bit of character at all.
I would have loved to drop down the tops of the openings to allow the crown to be continuous around the room and avoid all the starts and stops. Would've given some better definition to the rooms as well, but hey - everyone has a budget to work with.