Replies

1. 
   YesMaam27577 | Oct 19, 2006 10:59am | #1

   Don't try to attach it only to the vertical -- it will eventually sag.

   You should probably scribe a piece of wood -- taper cut it to fill the narrow angle while following the ceiling. Attach that to the ceiling and then put up the crown. Sand and paint the scribed piece to match, and I'll bet no one will notice.

   Option 2 -- rip out that sloping ceiling and start over.

    

    

   Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.

1. 
   chiseler | Oct 24, 2006 04:20am | #5

   Thanks for your suggestion to fit a tapered piece of wood above the crown molding in my kitchen and paint it to match the ceiling.  I am following your advice and it looks good.

2. 
   chiseler | Oct 19, 2006 02:19pm | #2

   One more detail on the crown molding I should have mentioned:  The crown molding is prefinished cherry (lacquer finish, I guess) purchased from the cabinet manufacturer.

   And another crown molding question:  Several old articles I read in Fine Hombuilding advise using mitered joints in crown molding for outside corners and coped joints for inside corners.  The corner cabnets in the kitchen have fronts that are at a 45 degree angle compared to the other cabinets.  I found a coped joint in an inside 90 degree corner fairly easy to do, but a coped joint in an inside 45 degree corner difficult.  Should I keep working at coped joints in inside 45 degree corners or try using mitered joints instead?

1. 
   user-165481 | Oct 20, 2006 01:55pm | #3

   Hi Chiseler,

   For 90 degree inside corners I prefer to cope the crown molding, but for anything less ( such as a 45 degree joint ) I would use a miter joint. The back bevel for a coped joint would have to be pretty extreme for a 45 degree joint.

2. 
   jpeeks | Oct 26, 2006 04:07am | #7

   you do not have to cope joints for cabinets because their corners are 90 deg, more of an issue for walls.

3. 
   bruce22 | Oct 20, 2006 02:54pm | #4

   If you can remove the crown without damaging it and the vertical piece, drop it down to the top of the cabinet. I've had the same situation more than once, and this will be the least obvious solution. If the vertical board wasn't fitted tight to begin with then I guess this won't work or you'll be back to square one. If you're using a finish nailer with cherry it shouldn't be a problem holding the crown,  you may have to put some small glue blocks behind. Good luck.

4. 
   ubc | Oct 25, 2006 11:54pm | #6

   I agree with yesmaam. I had to scribe fit pieces to an uneven ceiling as you describe (not a fun situation).

   If it were my house I'd demo the old ceiling and start over. Crown looks so much nicer when the ceilings flat :) especially stain grade.

5. 
   user-53644 | Oct 26, 2006 07:27am | #8

   In my experience the main reason to cope crown molding is because it is in contact with two planes (ceiling, wall).  All wood framed houses move, with the majority of that movement occuring in the first several years after construction.  When you attatch crown to those two independant planes the movement is compounded and inevitably cracks develop in the corners.  coped joints are much better at hiding gaps, provided that you placed your cope in the least viewed orientation.  A secondary reason for coping in a wall ceiling application is ease of installation.  Drywall corners are rarely square and it can save considerable time to cope the joints as opposed to checking every corner with a bevel guage and cutting every miter differently.

   I believe cabinets are a different story.  They are generally very square so virtually all of your cuts will be a true 45, or 22 1/2.  They are also very stable, being constructed of kiln dried wood and firmly secured to each other.  For these reasons coupled with the speed of mitering I always miter my cabinet crown.

   Good Luck.

   Josh

1. 
   notascrename | Oct 26, 2006 07:10pm | #9

   Inside mitre's are for people that can't cope. Jim

1. 
   30ALL | Oct 26, 2006 10:36pm | #10

   I have crown molding to install on my wall cabinets within next couple days. I don't quite understand what the vertical pieces are? are they the stock pieces that attach to top of  frame rail of wall cabinets to bring wall cabinets to ceiling? then crown molding will be nailed against them and ceiling?

   I have custom-made cabinets, the top rails of wall cabinets are extra wide to accept crown moldings so I can finish nail molding directly against frace frame, at least that was cabinet maker told me. Hoping everything works out.

1. 
   FlaCarpenter | Oct 27, 2006 02:18am | #11

   I'm not sure what you are referring to as verticle pieces but normally crown is attached only to the face frame of the cabinets. Since you have the required width on the top rail, you should be just fine. Unless your ceiling is out of level 1 3/4".....;-)