Crown moldings/crooked ceilings and wall
andybuildz
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
The way I do crown moldings with crooked walls and ceilings that in places (the ceiling) go uphill the last two feet or so into the corner…… would be to first of all, cope one end to start and join it to the other crown on the adjacent wall thats been cut flush into the wall. Start the nails in the center of the lengths. Do the next wall adjacent to it and if necessary shim the crown to the ceiling where it goes uphill…then nail it home…..going around the room with this method. Is this the way everyone else does it? Been doing it this way for years and was wondering if anyone had a better technique.
Andy
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Edited 3/22/2002 9:04:34 PM ET by Andy Clifford
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I'm having a bit of a hard time understanding the process.
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Rez, maybe while you're bumping these archive threads you should include some sort of response. ;-)See my work at TedsCarpentry.comBuy Cheap Tools! BuildersTools.net
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That's too much to ask...
I gotta admit, most of 'em are some pretty good topics.See my work at TedsCarpentry.comBuy Cheap Tools! BuildersTools.net
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2002 I was drunk...I must REALLY know what I'm doing now...LOL
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Edited 12/20/2008 2:10 am ET by andybuildz
Edited 12/20/2008 2:11 am ET by andybuildz
Wow! Talk about resurrecting the dead. LOL
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Yes....it is, but I use test pieces to fit into place (roughly) the piece I'm installing. Bot inside & outside miters. (copes too).
It depends on the type of crown to do it that way.
works though
Oh I forgot.... I let the gaps ride & see what they say at the end of the day with the light on them, and being a plasterer at one point I have at it with a hot mix of skim and my 14" trowel, tapering & feathering as needs be.
Crown moulding is tough no matter how you do it. I'm not a huge fan of coping, although I know some people who are. Is there a better way to install crown moulding? Not that I know of. But like anything, the more of it you do, the better at it you get. I use the test pieces also, as someone mentioned, that helps getting the crown to correct length. Once I get my length, I'll make my cuts a hair longer than needed. If I'm installing a long piece, I won't nail the last couple of feet, I'll keep it loose. This gives me a fighting chance to line up a corner. I'll use shims if needed, no biggie. I just make sure to cut them back far enough so they don't protrude beyond the caulk bead. I know there are situations where coping is needed, but why cope if you don't have to? Seems like a hassle to me, never comes out nice (when I do it anyway)
i always roll the crown if needed, like the other poster, and leave the last coupla feet loose for alignment. if ya jknow the cieling is whacky, fold a peice of painters tape over the top edge of the crown so after you install it, you can float the ceiling and that blue or green tape will serve as a nice guide in feathering.
i think coping is def superior. miters will open up if you press them back too far.
i also cut the crown in the miter box upside down instead of using the degree sets, that way i can roll the crown in the saw too and adjust the cut easier. (easier for me anyway, and never reallyhad any problems that way)
Dan Lynn, Dan Lynn Construction, Joliet, IL
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