Replies

1. 
   goldhiller | Apr 22, 2003 06:30am | #1

   Perhaps this will answer your questions. If not, post back.

   http://www.dewalt.com/us/articles/article.asp?Site=woodworking&ID=2

   Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
1. 
   Woodbutcher1 | Apr 22, 2003 08:46pm | #7

   Goldhiller,  thanks alot.  Yours was the one I was looking for. 

2. 
   JDRHI | Apr 22, 2003 04:12pm | #2

   Right outta FHB...hope it helps!

   J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

   
3. 
   jonblakemore | Apr 22, 2003 05:26pm | #3

   Just in case you prefer to use a calculator...

   I believe this is from Joe Fusco.

    

   Jon Blakemore

1. 
   finishcarp | Apr 22, 2003 07:29pm | #4

   Can you explain and use an example?

   Now that we're on crown moulding- how do you figure the miter setting on a scm saw for a crown that runs along a flat ceiling then runs up a 2/12 pitch cathedral ceiling?

1. 
   JDRHI | Apr 22, 2003 07:38pm | #5

   Aint one....gotta fudge it with vatious mouldings.J. D. Reynolds

   Home Improvements

   "DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"

2. 
   jonblakemore | Apr 22, 2003 08:45pm | #6

   The formula I gave was for using trig to figure out the miter/bevel on your CMS.  If you don't know trig and aren't comfortable with complex calculations, then you might as well forget it.  I don't want to sound like a jerk, but if you don't know anything about trig, than it would take a long time to explain.  If I have misread you or your post, feel free to reply and I will spend a few minutes working out an example.

   Now, the second question.  The short answer is, Jay Bird is right.  By various mouldings, he means that the crown that goes up the rake has to be smaller than the crown on the wall.  The reason for this is easily illustrate by something you've probably seen before.  When stick framing a roof, if you have 2x6 rafters and a 2x6 ridge, the rafters will either stick above or below the ridge, because when a piece is cut at an angle, the cut end is now longer than the width of the piece.  Also, the pieces not only need to be the close to exactly the right size relative to each other (this is determined by your roof pitch), the profiles also need to be almost exactly proportional.  The chances that you can find these in stock moulding are very slim.

   So, like Jay Bird said, the short answer is you have to use correctly sized mouldings to make it work.  Chances are you will have to get a millwork shop to grind a custom knife for you and run some stock through the shaper or moulding maching to get it excatly right.

   There have been discussions on this in the past.  You should be able to find them using the search button. 

   Jon Blakemore

3. 
   migraine | Apr 22, 2003 09:44pm | #8

   If you are running the molding from a flat ceiling and then it begins to run up a 2/12 pithch ceiling all you do is lay the crown in the trough the opposite way that you would normally lay crown. Figure what the angle is ( should be obtuse) and bi-sect it.

   (If you are cutting mitres around a corner, you lay it "upside down".  If you are cutting for a rise up a ceiling you lay it "right side up" and then do your cutting.)  Now,  if you are trying to go around a corner and also start to rise on a ceiling, that is totally different. It can be done with 3 pieces, or you really need to do some creative cutting and tweaking.  It's a PITA ;)

4. 
   JeffBuck | Apr 23, 2003 01:52am | #9

   try the "upside down and backwards"...

   this is stock cab trim, right?

   doubting they'd send ya anything too big to be cut that way.

   And....unless something goofy is going on...the cab maker's right.

   his 22.5 should get ya close enough to fiddle with and make near perfect unless the cab install is way outta whack. Cab trim is lots easier than wall/ceiling crown....

   the cab's are generally built fairly close and the install should have them pretty close to standard angles too.

   I find the "upside down and backwards" method much easier/quicker to "field adjust".

   Remember to squint your eyes...tilt your head....sometimes standing on one leg helps it fit better too.

   Kinda like guiding the bowling ball outta the gutter.

   Jeff

   Buck Construction   Pittsburgh,PA

    Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite                  

1. 
   migraine | Apr 23, 2003 01:56am | #10

   Another articulated gentleman ;-)

5. 
   alias | Apr 23, 2003 04:01am | #11

   heres another , i saw around . hope it helps little D.I.Yish but to the point.... bear

   http://www.compoundmiter.com go to cathedral/vault ceilings

   
   

   ---

   Edited 4/22/2003 9:04:58 PM ET by the bear

1. 
   geob21 | Apr 23, 2003 04:51am | #12

   This thread looks amazing like a government project.

   How to make a simple process into something way more difficult then it needs to be.

   If you can't figure it out it's time to call a pro.

   _____________________________________________If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?

1. 
   Woodbutcher1 | Apr 23, 2003 04:01pm | #13

   To try and end this "government project".  I was simply looking for a table (chart) with settings for a compound miter saw when the cabinet angle (or wall angle) is not a square 90 degrees.  Goldhiller sent me to the dewalt article where there is such a table.  My cabinet angle was 135 degrees.  Using the chart gets me close enough to eyeball from there.  Thanks everybody.