I’m doing some work which the HO now wants to include a curved entry porch. The rest of the house was going to get aluminum seamless. I’m looking for methods and/or options for guttering a curve.
Thanks
I’m doing some work which the HO now wants to include a curved entry porch. The rest of the house was going to get aluminum seamless. I’m looking for methods and/or options for guttering a curve.
Thanks
Understand lumens, ceiling brightness, beam spread, tilt, and color options to make a wise choice on a common fixture that can range from $75 to $750 or more.
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Replies
Me too.
address this to seeyou.
I'll bet he has an answer.
I'm assuming you're talking ogee gutter.
There's several companies that can make radiused gutter, but they are mucho dinero. I think the last quote I got was over $100/ft. They are also in two pieces (the front is one piece and the bottom and back is the other) and have to be soldered together (for what they cost, the material price is negligible).
We normally cut a series of short pieces and solder them together. If done competently, it looks fine. I guess it could be done with alum., but that's a lot of lap sealant to fail. I'd use copper and paint it to match the aluminum.
http://grantlogan.net/
Thanks for poking your head in. Yes, it will most likely be ogee. I have a buddy with a seamless gutter business. He'll do the rest of the house. I had run that copper scenario by the HO, he likes it a lot...to hell with painting, celebrate the copper!Is there a typical tie-in for copper to aluminum, other jam-it n gutter seal? How bout galvanic concerns?I've got to see if my friend can solder<G> Outside of the gates the trucks were unloadin',
The weather was hot, a-nearly 90 degrees.
The man standin' next to me, his head was exploding,
Well, I was prayin' the pieces wouldn't fall on me.
Here are a couple of pictures of curved wooden gutters lined with copper.
Each length is 15" long or so with a 2" overlap to rivet to.
Do you do your soldering or do you have a guy who takes care of your copper work for you?
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I'm a sole proprietor for the most part. I do it all myself.
Lots of jobs can be done alone, but on the one in Winterport " Greek Revival roof restoration" I've got a man to help me.
All the copper work and soldering I do myself since most people hire me because they know I'll be doing the work- not bringing in some subs.
I'll post some copper shots from today later tonite in that Greek thread.
This is the type of thing I love to see on BT!! Great work!
So you can't see the copper from the ground? hidden assets<G> Do the riveted areas get soldered later? Outside of the gates the trucks were unloadin',
The weather was hot, a-nearly 90 degrees.
The man standin' next to me, his head was exploding,
Well, I was prayin' the pieces wouldn't fall on me.
Yes thats an in progress picture. That job had a ton of seams so I did the bottoms first to keep water out of the wooden gutter-which had seen a lot of leakage thru the years.
I went back and did all the verticles as I had time and finished the slate work.
I noticed you riveted the joints rather than locking them. That your SOP?http://grantlogan.net/
Hey, in questioning our locks on Mentelle, Vs. lapping or rivet. We experimented by drilling a a rivet size hole in the box gutter bottom lock, before soldering. When the solder came up thru the hole, we knew, for certain we were getting good sweating.
It takes longer to lock them, but we haven't had a burst seam yet AFAIK.
Off to Boonesboro to scope out the job today.Parolee # 40835
Hey - talk to that guy about his windows if you're interested.http://grantlogan.net/
Thanks for the reminder. We're meeting at lunch over there.Parolee # 40835
Grant,
Thats 20 oz.copper lining, not perfect wooden gutters- no pitch either.
I rivet lots of times to keep from having all the extra copper thickness at each joint- especially here since it would be hard to pound a locked seam tight without killing the wooden gutter. Also each seam holds back water from moving since the gutter is not pitched.
I lock together when I can but have no issues with rivets every inch, then soldered with a nice " zipper" strength ribs.
Walter
>>>>>>>>Is there a typical tie-in for copper to aluminum, other jam-it n gutter seal? How bout galvanic concerns?That's pretty much it. Raw aluminum might be a problem, but gutter stock is coated.http://grantlogan.net/
I should have saved some of the gutters from the last ice storm...at least now I've got a quest<G> Outside of the gates the trucks were unloadin',
The weather was hot, a-nearly 90 degrees.
The man standin' next to me, his head was exploding,
Well, I was prayin' the pieces wouldn't fall on me.